Review: EZVIZ DB1C

[itm]

That transformer is only 12 watts. I'd say 20 watts, or greater, is needed. I'm running with a 30 watt if that helps.

doorbell+transformer&qid=1628873011&sprefix=doorb%2Caps%2C325&sr=8-6" data-host="www.amazon.com" data-pending="false">

24V 40VA Thermostat and Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi and Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello Doorbell and All Versions of Ring Doorbell (Style 1) - - Amazon.com

24V 40VA Thermostat and Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi and Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello Doorbell and All Versions of Ring Doorbell (Style 1) - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I found one for less, but this is the same basic one I'm using.

Would this one stack up do you think? - it seems to be 24 watts:

Wired Transformer for Ring Doorbell 8-24vac AC 1000mAh, Doorbell Power Supply with UK Plug Adapter (Black 5m) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Shop Wired Transformer for Ring Doorbell 8-24vac AC 1000mAh, Doorbell Power Supply with UK Plug Adapter (Black 5m). Free delivery on eligible orders of £20 or more.

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[sebastiantombs]

If it's capable of 24 volts at 1000ma yes it should work fine.

 

[pete_c]

What's the rationale behind a switch to an AC transformer - would that work better with a current sensor?

Specifications of the current sensor are for AC use. Simple and cheap way to open / close a switch.

Also, what sort of wireless contact switch do you mean - something like a Zigbee door/window sensor with a magnetic contact breaker?

Any Zigbee / ZWave / WiFI modded with Tasmota device sensing 2 wires either open or closed.

IE: very cheap to take apart one of those small wireless magnetic contact switches and connect two wires out to the current sensor and it has a tiny footprint. Typically it is a little reed switch inside there that a magnet trips.

or

Purchase a Zigbee / zwave / wifi sensor with two screw terminals on it for a contact switch.

Very tiny and easy to modify and cheap to modify.


How would that connect to the current sensor?

Two wires from the current sensor (NC / NO) to the two wires on your Zigbee / ZWave or WiFi modded with Tasmota trinket.

Look at the picture above with the current sensor. It is a two wire terminal there and is open normally and closes with current thru the AC low voltage wire from the doorbell. There is a little set screw on the current sensor to adjust when the switch closes. Easy to tweak.


The mechanical chime that I have (Byron 776) has an in-built 8V transformer so wouldn't need a separate power source.

No. You want an autonomous AC transformer around 18-24 VAC (as mentioned above) that you can use for your Doorbell camera and a mechanical doorbell chime.

I had an 8VAC transformer and chime in place and while it worked fine with the Ring Doorbell it did not work with the Hikvision doorbell.

I would have no idea what to do with an ESP01 :0(
Would the current sensor + wireless contact switch be a simpler solution for someone like me?

Yes.

The world is going toward MQTT. I am only using MQTT with Home Assistant today. It is not on the internet and only locally use it. That is where you take your el cheapo Chinese wifi switch and install Tasmota, Espurna, ESPHome on it replacing the ESP firmware on it so it doesn't talk to the cloud.

Edit: the puzzling thing is that I can trigger the Sage sensor if I connect a 12V DC transformer directly to it. I just can't work out why the full setup with the doorbell won't do the same.

Don't use the Sage sensor. You really only want to power up the doorbell and maybe the chime with the AC transformer. The current sensor is much less invasive and doesn't utilize any power to work. It gets triggered by AC current flow only. My ELK 930 current sensor did not work with the Hikvision doorbell so I left it disconnected and went to using the passive current sensor.

 

[pete_c]

This transformer would work better:

VEMER VN319000 Transformer TMC 30/24 for DIN Rail for Continuous Service 230V/12-24V Power 30VA, lightgrey : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop VEMER VN319000 Transformer TMC 30/24 for DIN Rail for Continuous Service 230V/12-24V Power 30VA, lightgrey.

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Here in the US utilize Meanwell DIN mounted DC transformers for my outdoor 12VDC LED lighting. Much smaller footprint than the old AC multiple tap Toroidal transformers.

Thinking Meanwell also makes a DIN mounted AC to AC transformer with a small footprint.

The Ring Doorbell doesn't need a large transformer because it uses batteries and the transformer just charges the batteries.

The Hikvision Doorbell uses the AC power to run the camera and the battery in there is just a backup for the memory of the device.

The camera does get warm and that helps some in the cold months.

 

[itm]

The mechanical chime that I have (Byron 776) has an in-built 8V transformer so wouldn't need a separate power source.

No. You want an autonomous AC transformer around 18-24 VAC (as mentioned above) that you can use for your Doorbell camera and a mechanical doorbell chime
The Byron 776 was on the Ezviz compatibility list for the DB1C, which is why I bought it. I also emailed Ezviz to confirm that it was suitable, and they did - but advised me to use a separate 16-24VAC transformer for the DB1C.

This transformer would work better:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vemer-VN319000-Transformer-Service-Continuous/dp/B00F4QGVIA/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=18v+ac+doorbell+transformer&qid=1628876431&sr=8-23
Thanks for that, but I was looking for something that I can plug into the standard 3-pin socket in my garage, as that's the closest power source to the door. I'm also not comfortable connecting anything to the consumer unit - I try to leave that to professionals ;0)

 

[pete_c]

I would suggest then to get a pluggable transformer with these specs...I do not see any on the UK amazon site.

230V/12-24V Power 15-20 VAC.

Thinking there in the UK these would be used for security alarm panels.

I use Elk AC to AC transformers here with my alarm panel (s). A UK security company would probably have a suitable and pluggable AC transformer.

Most issues I saw here on the forum with the Hikvision Doorbell cameras was relating to the common AC-AC transformers used here in the US for doorbell chimes.

Ask your EZViz folks what could be sourced in the UK for that size transformer.

 

[itm]

Just a thought....there is a 2nd doorbell and chime in the house. It's a mechanical chime, connected to a Siemens HC450 door entry system. The chime and HC450 control unit are powered by a Friedland transformer (8V 1A). The HC450 control unit is connected to the F(0) and T(3) terminals on the chime. The (1) and (2) terminals on the chime are free - presumably for additional doorbells?
Would it be feasible to connect the DB1C and sensor to this existing chime? - i.e. connected to the T and (1) or T and (2) terminals? (as well as powering the DB1C with a new 20VAC transformer?

 

[pete_c]

So currently do you have the Siemens door system and the Doorbell camera at your front door?

I had an 8VAC transformer here with my original doorbell chime. It worked fine with the Ring Doorbell (to charge it) but did not work with the Hikvision Doorbell.

Way back purchased a 2-3 different AC transformers and tested the Hikvision on the workbench directly connected to the transformers before installing the new transformer in to place.

I used a computer cord to connect the transformer to the power outlet and wired the two terminals of the transformer right to the camera.

I ended up keeping two of them with one as a hot spare.

 

[itm]

So currently do you have the Siemens door system and the Doorbell camera at your front door?
Yes - and I've just noticed that it's powered by a 12V 1A AC transformer. The intention was that the video doorbell could replace it if I could get it to send chimes around the house, but I may end up keeping both.

Edit: it looks like the existing chime is a Friedland D107 - photo and wiring diagram below. The spare terminals 1 & 2 suggest possible use for a 2nd doorbell (e.g. the DB1C?)

 

[pete_c]

It should work. Test it first.

A benefit if you use also use this chime you can put a wireless zigbee or zwave contact switch inside there next to the magnet that gets energized to trigger the contact switch instead of using the Sage device.


You would then have a working doorbell chime, Video doorbell and HA automation to trigger events.

Testing these days doing a pop up video and audio notification via the Amazon Show devices or my Homeseer Touchscreens or Home Assistant on a doorbell ring.

Here continue (20 years now) to utilize MS SAPI speech fonts (a variety) that are connected to a distributed audio system (Russound) with speakers / control pads in all of the rooms so that a doorbell ring sound goes to the speakers with a speech announcement that someone is at the front door. I combine the SAPI speech audio with one Amazon Dot mixing the two audio outputs. This is way faster than the Amazon Show devices stuff doing the doorbell automation. Probably because it is cloudless.

Test the Hikvision doorbell connecting the two terminals on the video doorbell to the 12 VAC side of the transformer just to power up and activate the camera first.

 

[itm]

Are you thinking that the existing 12V 1A AC transformer could power both the Siemens HC450 system and the DB1C? I was assuming that I would need a separate transformer for each. but couldn't make sense of the wiring diagram for the D107 that I attached earlier - I couldn't work out what the difference was between the right and left wiring schemes.

I do like the idea of a pop-up video, but don't currently a device like the Amazon Show. I have a few Google Home devices scattered around the house (audio only) - I was planning to use those for the doorbell chimes when I get this automation fixed.

 

[pete_c]

Are you thinking that the existing 12V 1A AC transformer could power both the Siemens HC450 system and the DB1C?

Yes.

Test out the two free terminals on the chime above with a voltmeter.

The above picture and wiring diagram looks to be a standard doorbell / chime wiring schema. Same used here for mechanical chimes.

Guessing the left picture drawing is for one doorbell and the right picture drawing is for two doorbells.

Here is another standard drawing for a mechanical chime.



If the Siemens HC450 doesn't draw much amperage then the DB should work.

 

[itm]

Test out the two free terminals on the chime above with a voltmeter.
There's no voltage across the two free terminals in the chime (terminals 1 & 2).

Unfortunately the 12V transformer connection into the HC450 control unit is using a proprietary connector, so It will require an ugly solution to tap into the middle of the cable to take a separate supply for the DB1C - any ideas for what sort of widget might help with this? Alternatively I could just use a separate supply?
Thanks for the diagram. Does the diagram below look correct for hooking it all up, assuming that the 12V 1A supply will support both the DB1C and the HC450?

 

[pete_c]

It would be T3 and #2 and / or T3 and #1 to test for voltage. Apologies.

Drawing looks good except that you want to remove the Sage sensor.

See then if the Video DB works without the Sage sensor.

Then try to see if it works with the Sage sensor in place.

 

[itm]

It would be T3 and #2 and / or T3 and #1 to test for voltage.

No voltage between T3 and #2, or between T3 and #1. Would you expect there to be?

 

[pete_c]

When the doorbell button gets pushed you will see voltage. Voltage will be seen if you use the T3 port and the other wire of the transformer or OF on your chime.

Test it connected as in your drawing above with the power kit in place but not the Sage kit.

 

[itm]

I'm reluctant to splice the existing 12V transformer cable to connect the DB1C (!). If I can pick up a 2nd 12VAC 1A transformer for the DB1C would the setup below be legitimate (without the Sage sensor initially)?
What's confusing me is the presence of both the 8V transformer (for the chime) and the 12V transformer (for the doorbell). In a simple doorbell setup I can see that the 8V transformer is all that's required to power the chime, with the doorbell button press closing the circuit between the two terminals. When the 2nd (12V) transformer is introduced I don't understand how this plays with the 8V transformer (??)

 

[pete_c]

Looks like in this drawing that the Siemens HC 450 uses the 8v transformer to power the unit and the 12V transformer to power the chime.

Here are drawings from the installation manual.

Guessing the "actuator" is what closes the circuit to ring the chime. The bell transformer is the 12vac one you are referrring to.

The O(F)and 3(T) actuator wires are what you would use which are isolated from the control unit. These would have 12VAC voltage flowing when the button is pushed.

All you care about for the DB1C is the "Bell" and "Bell transformer". The actuator is button #1. You want to connect the DB1C to terminal #2 or terminal #3 on the chime because it is a separate door bell button. Or if you do not want to use the control unit button then disconnect the actuator wires and connect them the DB1C on the chime side.

IE: you want to use the before (left) drawing for your DB1C where as the "Doorbell" are the two wires you are using for the DB1C. If you do this then the control unit actuator or button will not function when pressed.

 

[pete_c]

Here is a new drawing.

 

[itm]

I've been rooting around in the HC450 control unit and it seems that it's the 8V transformer that is driving the chime - for some reason there are 3 cables coming from the 8V transformer - 2 are going into the ACT terminal of the HC450 Control Unit and the third is going directly to the 3(T) terminal on the chime. I hadn't noticed before that the blue/white cables from the 8V transformer are connected directly to the chime (via the plastic block connector). For some reason installer used what looks like 5 or 6 core ethernet or telephone cabling and has twisted pairs of cores together.
So the corrected diagram is below.
Working on the assumption that the 8V transformer will not be enough to power the DB1C, if I add a 2nd 12VAC 1A transformer for the DB1C, is the revised wiring below correct? (excluding the Sage sensor).
I've attached photos of the existing cabling to the HC450 control unit and the chime. In the HC450 photo the white cable in the middle goes to the chime. The left cable comes from the 8V transformer. The right hand cable goes to the door panel.