How do I setup motion detection on my PTZ5A4M-25X
- Thread starter ingeborgdot
- Start date
Most/all of us here with auto-tracking cameras do not use MD/SMD. I have 3 of them and none use MD/SMD and rely solely on IVS.
So you have something else going on. Post screenshots.
In fact, for the 49xxx series there is an issue where BI keeps sending a command to the cameras turning MD on, so the hack we came up with was to have the MD be one small box in the detection settings and setting up the smallest schedule possible and sensitivity to the lowest so that it isn't triggering BI and sending alerts.
I even repeat to not use MD/SMD twice and in bold in the setup instructions when people come here with issues:
ipcamtalk.com
So you have something else going on. Post screenshots.
In fact, for the 49xxx series there is an issue where BI keeps sending a command to the cameras turning MD on, so the hack we came up with was to have the MD be one small box in the detection settings and setting up the smallest schedule possible and sensitivity to the lowest so that it isn't triggering BI and sending alerts.
I even repeat to not use MD/SMD twice and in bold in the setup instructions when people come here with issues:
PTZ1A225-HNR-XA motion detection under Blue Iris
Hi All, I installed one of these PTZ cams from Andy. Went into the camera with a browser to set up motion detection. Looked under "Smart Plan" and saw options for "video metadata" or "face detection" but no presets were available. Selected "Video Metadata" and saved. Looked under "Deep...
I set my ptz Tracking target size ratio to 30.so thats what that ratio sizing is for .
In case you haven't seen it, this is my starter post to get the most out of cameras - it is especially critical on PTZs that see a wide range of area.
Every field of view is different, but I have found you need contrast to usually be 6-8 higher than the brightness number at night.
We want the ability to freeze frame capture a clean image from the video at night, and that is only done with a shutter of 1/60 or faster. At night, default/auto may be on 1/12s shutter or worse to make the image bright.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared or white light.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.
Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image. But try not to go above 70 for anything and try to have contrast be at least 7-10 digits higher than brightness.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
Every field of view is different, but I have found you need contrast to usually be 6-8 higher than the brightness number at night.
We want the ability to freeze frame capture a clean image from the video at night, and that is only done with a shutter of 1/60 or faster. At night, default/auto may be on 1/12s shutter or worse to make the image bright.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared or white light.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.
Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image. But try not to go above 70 for anything and try to have contrast be at least 7-10 digits higher than brightness.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
I will be digesting this slowly and thoughtfully putting your knowledge to work for me. there's a bunch there to consume, but I get it.
on this day/night tab - what is electronic vs. icr ?
I set up the time plan map kinda generically. 7:30 am - 7:30 pm for now ( for the year - will tune it up monthly as we get by.
on this day/night tab - what is electronic vs. icr ?
I set up the time plan map kinda generically. 7:30 am - 7:30 pm for now ( for the year - will tune it up monthly as we get by.
Leave that alone - that is the IR cutoff and if you change it, you will have issues. It is for a specialized situation why someone would want to keep the filter in place at night.
I tried it once and immediately lost the image at night that night and thought it was broke LOL.
I tried it once and immediately lost the image at night that night and thought it was broke LOL.
ir cut filter, damn abbreviations 
I have 3 other cams out in that area, covering what this one ptz is doing now, well two of the three are almost irrelevant now.
There's plenty of I.R. floating out there, plus an i.r. illuminator, It's is dark here at night.
near the side edges of boundary in view, since using the static scene, is there problems with picking up and tracking targets at those side edges?
I'm zoomed in all the way (close in ) so I can't do a wider view. I tried doing a slow scan, but I can't handle that yet, too many triggers.
I need to learn these PTZ basics first.
I have 3 other cams out in that area, covering what this one ptz is doing now, well two of the three are almost irrelevant now.
There's plenty of I.R. floating out there, plus an i.r. illuminator, It's is dark here at night.
near the side edges of boundary in view, since using the static scene, is there problems with picking up and tracking targets at those side edges?
I'm zoomed in all the way (close in ) so I can't do a wider view. I tried doing a slow scan, but I can't handle that yet, too many triggers.
I need to learn these PTZ basics first.
this bugs me - the cam is still looking for the ghost, and zooming in on the plant.. happened a dozen times last night.
also noticing the cam's i.r. flashes some every once in a while.
The cam loses its (wideout1) preset and then I get no tracking, only sometimes I get the event. (in B.I.)
should I enable - idle motion ?
also noticing the cam's i.r. flashes some every once in a while.
The cam loses its (wideout1) preset and then I get no tracking, only sometimes I get the event. (in B.I.)
should I enable - idle motion ?