New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

metalexa

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Any luck on what the issue is? You think its the device itself?
I personally think its software. What I'm going to do is to flash it back to the original firmware and see if its replicated. If it does not happen again in a couple days I will flash it again.
I had flashed it multiple times as I had a hard time with it like it displaying the EZVIZ logo while on another firmware. Also had issues with the SSID which this forum helped with by reading reading reading. Did not find much information about this issue so decided to make a post. The fact that I flashed it multiple times could be the reason why its acting up now? Again IDK and will need to do more troubleshooting.
 

Superpie

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I personally think its software. What I'm going to do is to flash it back to the original firmware and see if its replicated. If it does not happen again in a couple days I will flash it again.
I had flashed it multiple times as I had a hard time with it like it displaying the EZVIZ logo while on another firmware. Also had issues with the SSID which this forum helped with by reading reading reading. Did not find much information about this issue so decided to make a post. The fact that I flashed it multiple times could be the reason why its acting up now? Again IDK and will need to do more troubleshooting.
Did you change the doorbell transformer? I am still using the original one that my home has. I am having trouble finding the transformer in my house
 

metalexa

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Did you change the doorbell transformer? I am still using the original one that my home has. I am having trouble finding the transformer in my house
Im still using the original one. When it works it actually works well but when it freezes nothing works including the app. The doorbell shows as offline and the video does not start.
My transformer was on the side of the panel. Check around your electrical panel for it.
 

Daijoubu

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I've converted my doorbell push buttons to LED and to run on 9VDC, I couldn't stand the AC transformer buzzing away and liked the better efficiency of a SMPS, I see that some folks was able to power it with 12VDC, anyone tried 9VDC?
If not, I'll run some test with my lab PSU
 

David L

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If it was the transformer, wouldn't the device not work at all especially the chime or what other issues would it cause?
What size transformer do you have? What we have found is the majority of those type problems are low VA on a transformer. These include random reboots, loss of network, problems with connection to App/Cloud, random RTSP problems, etc. A transformer replacement is a cheap enough fix and if it does not fix it you have eliminated any possible power issues on your end. We also found that not every builder grade transformer is the same, I had a 16v 10va that worked fine but I replaced it knowing I was going to have several RTSP streams running from the DB so I bought a 16v 30va. If you go out on the Net you will find these same issues with other Smart Doorbells, Ring/Nest, just search Doorbell transformers on Amazon, there are a ton of them available :) General rule, if you have an existing 16v then replace with a 16v, if 24v replace with 24v, I would replace with 30va or higher, 40va works too. If you increase voltage you your Chime may have issues, ring louder, wear out quicker, etc. The key here is the VA (Load) needs to be able to handle the power required by your new Smart Doorbell.
 
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metalexa

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What size transformer do you have? What we have found it the majority of those type problems are low VA on a transformer. These include random reboots, loss of network, problems with connection to App/Cloud, random RTSP problems, etc. A transformer replacement is a cheap enough fix and if it does not fix it you have eliminated any possible power issues on your end. We also found that not every builder grade transformer is the same, I had a 16v 10va that worked fine but I replaced it knowing I was going to have several RTSP streams running from the DB so I bought a 16v 30va. If you go out on the Net you will find these same issues with other Smart Doorbells, Ring/Nest, just search Doorbell transformers on Amazon, there are a ton of them available :) General rule, if you have an existing 16v then replace with a 16v, if 24v replace with 24v, I would replace with 30va or higher, 40va works too. If you increase voltage you your Chime may have issues, ring louder, wear out quicker, etc. The key here is the VA (Load) needs to be able to handle the power required by your new Smart Doorbell.
Currently I have the one that came with the house which is a NuTone 515-t and its' a 10v 5w transformer. So it might be that it's not giving enough power to the unit.
I have just purchased a brand new chime a couple months ago so it should handle higher voltages.

I can also confirm that I flashed the firmware with the original EZVIZ and it still was offline this morning. Will upgrade the transformer and check to see if it keeps happening.
 

pete_c

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I have not used the app. The doorbell is not on a network with internet access...

Connect the device to the internet. Use the app to configure chime type, PIR stuff. Create or change admin access.

Then utilize Batch configuration to change your IP, DNS, NTP stuff. Later you can add the wireless device to a VLAN or autonomous WAP network for local use only.
 

Kallb123

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I'm looking at installing the Ezviz DB1 today and I've read the 101, just got a question about the fuse. Since I'm not going to use a chime, I need the fuse installed, but there's basically no space. Can the fuse be inside the house with the transformer? Does it matter whether it's on the 0V or 24V wire to the doorbell?
 

chirpy

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Thank you for the information in this thread.

Just wanted to post a rough picture of me getting this to work locally (i.e. no cloud) with my smart system by simply using a current sensing switch and an Aqara contact sensor for those that do not have a chime:
s20210123_152654.jpg
It works a treat. Press the doorbell, the current sensor sees the drop in current and triggers the open/close Aqara sensor and my Hubitat knows that the doorbell has been rung. This is using a plugin 24 VAC adapter.

Note: You must configure the EZVIZ DB-1 to have an attached mechanical chime, otherwise the doorbell won't drop the voltage. I learnt this the hard way.
 

Kallb123

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I've just installed the Ezviz DB1 in the UK and I used a transformer that's cropped up a few times on this thread: British General 8-24V 8VA Bell Transformer Module

It's buzzing way too loud for my liking. I have no chime installed, so I installed the extra fuse wire, and used the 24V terminal. I guess it's not powerful enough? I'm a bit gutted as I'm sure a few people have used this transformer successfully already :(

Can anyone suggest a UK transformer that won't buzz? It's right in the hallway where the old chime was, so it's not hidden away.
 
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chirpy

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Can anyone suggest a UK transformer that won't buzz? It's right in the hallway where the old chime was, so it's not hidden away.
I'd return it for another if you can as I have one of these from Screwfix and it's fine with a Nest Hello running at 24V for a couple of years now.
 

Amgclk65

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Hey,
I’ve recently noticed a lot of loss of signals from my HD1 via Blue Iris. Network hasn’t changed . I started watching the main stream# via ivms . I noticed roughly every 3-5 min the stream goes to 0mbs and 0 fps. As well as spikes in the fps. That’s when Blue Iris logs a no signal. I did try the firewall (respond ICMP echo request from wan) setting in my router. That didn’t help. Tried 2.4ghz & 5ghz
Hik newest firmware, -36dBm signal strength.
No look. Any info would be nice.
 

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JimLS

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New DS-HD1 owner here. Have read the 101 and looking for more detail on setting config options. For cameras that try to phone home I have disconnected internet and then connected the camera, then set IP by MAC on the router and disable WAN access so the camera never has internet access. (you're not paranoid if they really are after you. :) ). Since I need to set this up via wireless it will have to be a little different. I could use the ap on my android or install the batch configuration tool or IVMS4200. Is there a table or details somewhere that shows what settings can be controlled with each? I may give cloud access at some point but for now I planned to just use it with zoneminder. Would be good if I could trigger a script on the zoneminder box when the button is pressed - what functionality is possible on button press without internet access and the app? I have seen the details on current sensors and fully understand that option but was looking for what might be done with just settings and software.
 

moista

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Another small Update for those who care :D

Unit is now installed and working great. For now its wired up to a mechanical chime, because I'm assembling the smart one. I designed a little circuit and want to share it with you; maybe it is useful for anyone out there - but be warned (!) I'm not an expert, so it is possible, that there are some flaws in the design! Maybe someone could improve the design, especially the 2nd Relay-Part (Relay on the right, connected to the "speaker" representing the digital chime) - I did it this way, because it was not possible with my electronic chime to trigger it with a transistor (the circuit to be closed does not base on ground).

Ah, and another Note: The 5V Regulator I used is a assembled module with rectifier and all the components I left out in the screen. Please note, that rectifier, IC1 and C1 represents this module! (for reference: this is the module I used: Aliexpress Article 1005001560651539).
For those, who doesn't need a "smart chime", rather just need to wire up a digital chime, check out the "basic circuit" at the bottom.

circuit.png
On the Breadboard everything is working fine. In the moment I'm tuning the software part (esphome) and then I will build up the circuit. Thankfully there is enough space in the case of the chime; I'm planning to use the space, which is normally for the batteries (4x Type C).
 

Kallb123

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New DS-HD1 owner here. Have read the 101 and looking for more detail on setting config options. For cameras that try to phone home I have disconnected internet and then connected the camera, then set IP by MAC on the router and disable WAN access so the camera never has internet access. (you're not paranoid if they really are after you. :) ). Since I need to set this up via wireless it will have to be a little different. I could use the ap on my android or install the batch configuration tool or IVMS4200. Is there a table or details somewhere that shows what settings can be controlled with each? I may give cloud access at some point but for now I planned to just use it with zoneminder. Would be good if I could trigger a script on the zoneminder box when the button is pressed - what functionality is possible on button press without internet access and the app? I have seen the details on current sensors and fully understand that option but was looking for what might be done with just settings and software.
As far as I'm aware, the button push event is not accessible via software without Internet access. It goes to the app. You can use a dummy phone with the app running to capture the press and forward the event via Tasker or similar. Otherwise it's a hardware solution.

The one exception to this is to block all Internet traffic, then capture the doorbell button request in the firewall and pass the event to a local device. Only certain routers/firewalls can be configured like thus though.

Happy to be proven wrong though :D
 

David L

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Hey,
I’ve recently noticed a lot of loss of signals from my HD1 via Blue Iris. Network hasn’t changed . I started watching the main stream# via ivms . I noticed roughly every 3-5 min the stream goes to 0mbs and 0 fps. As well as spikes in the fps. That’s when Blue Iris logs a no signal. I did try the firewall (respond ICMP echo request from wan) setting in my router. That didn’t help. Tried 2.4ghz & 5ghz
Hik newest firmware, -36dBm signal strength.
No look. Any info would be nice.
From our 101:
⦁ If your Doorbell stops streaming every 3 or so minutes, see these post - cba123 - misally, misally
 

pete_c

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@moista

Nice schematic drawings.

Doing similar here with another endeavor using a single ESP-01 WiFi relay with Tasmota / MQTT.

ESP-01-Relay.jpg

The first tinkering is to convert MQTT PIR motion messages from the Hikvision Doorbell to a hardwired zone input on my Leviton / HAI OmniPro panel.
 

Studie

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For recording what settings/ bitrate/ frame rate do you guys recommend to extend the lifespan of the microSD card?
 

Superpie

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What size transformer do you have? What we have found is the majority of those type problems are low VA on a transformer. These include random reboots, loss of network, problems with connection to App/Cloud, random RTSP problems, etc. A transformer replacement is a cheap enough fix and if it does not fix it you have eliminated any possible power issues on your end. We also found that not every builder grade transformer is the same, I had a 16v 10va that worked fine but I replaced it knowing I was going to have several RTSP streams running from the DB so I bought a 16v 30va. If you go out on the Net you will find these same issues with other Smart Doorbells, Ring/Nest, just search Doorbell transformers on Amazon, there are a ton of them available :) General rule, if you have an existing 16v then replace with a 16v, if 24v replace with 24v, I would replace with 30va or higher, 40va works too. If you increase voltage you your Chime may have issues, ring louder, wear out quicker, etc. The key here is the VA (Load) needs to be able to handle the power required by your new Smart Doorbell.
I have swapped my transformer and it is 16v 30va and I am still getting the issue "too many viewers, failed to play" and when thus happens, the chime does not work as well. Seems like no one else has this problem so I'm not sure if the product is defective or not
 
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