New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

David L

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Just a small Status-Update:

My Unit seems to be a strange one. I tested until yesterday with another chime - everything was working. I changed the Chime again to measure (as promised) the Specs of the Chimes, but suddenly they worked, too. So I changed at last to the relay (nothing else connected) to check this out. But it is not working - and now i have phantom ringing again, no matter which chime I connect.
Maybe the internal battery-state or Capacitor (Charged or Charging) has to do with it, too.

Data of Chime #1:
Resistance: 7.4 Ohm
Inductivity: 11.28 mH

Chime #2:
Resistance: 6.3 Ohm
Inductivity: 8.22 mH

Chime #3:
Resistance: 4.7 Ohm
Inductivity: 4.85 mH

Chime #1 is the initial setup. Chime #2 is the one I testet since beginning of the year. I tested #3 for only a short period, so no further infos now.
I will keep testing - i found another transformer, which i will test the next days.

What keeps me thoughtful: Is it only me (and @fredkruger) having this kind of problem? Does anybody know, if there is a circuit, which would support the powerkit (like a diode-solution - i didn't try it yet).
There have been a few here that found faulty power kits. Until fredkruger we were not aware of different power kits, possibly he was sent one that was not included with EZVIZ, or maybe it was a newer kit. Either way, you may want to try and get another one sent to you. Also, I assume you are bench testing, if so, be sure and test your existing wires too, some here have found faulty wiring (breaks when moved work/don't work) I know these are just basic suggestions, just throwing my 2 cents in here...HTH

Thanks for Sharing...
 

Pantino

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I haven't read every page here, but going by the steps linked from 101, I didn't notice a special mention for Mac OS users which could be a pitfall like it was for me.

With the Mac OS version of the Batch Config tool it's not possible to access the REMOTE CONFIGURATION for the camera. It will work for updating the firmware, but that's it. You'll need to use iVMS to get to remote management to be able to change the SSID after flashing the replacement firmware.

I have an EZVIZ DB1 and updated the firmware to Hikvision DS-HD1 using Batch Config Tool. After restarting the device and joining its AP-mode WiFi network there is no gear icon in the Operation column after adding the device.

Also, the instructions could be amended in the 101 (and the more detailed/advanced step x step) to mention that the IP to connect to the doorbell with Batch Config or iVMS needs to be 192.168.8.1
 
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Pantino

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With EZVIZ (running Hik 200231) Also worth noting, PIR sensitivity (Alarm Area Setting 5, 9, 16ft) can't be set and seemingly has no effect, triggering at 16ft (or more), if you don't enable Alarm Notifications.
 

moista

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There have been a few here that found faulty power kits. Until fredkruger we were not aware of different power kits, possibly he was sent one that was not included with EZVIZ, or maybe it was a newer kit. Either way, you may want to try and get another one sent to you. Also, I assume you are bench testing, if so, be sure and test your existing wires too, some here have found faulty wiring (breaks when moved work/don't work) I know these are just basic suggestions, just throwing my 2 cents in here...HTH

Thanks for Sharing...
Every Suggestion is a good one ;)
Well, i am fed up - i give it a try and send the whole package back and try another one. If this unit will have the same problem, i will ask Ezviz for another powerkit (with all resistors).
I tried 3 Power Supplies + 1 Labaratory Power Supply, 3 analog chimes, 1 digital chime and changed all wires - I also tried to factory reset the unit and went back to the original Ezviz-FW.
 

David L

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Every Suggestion is a good one ;)
Well, i am fed up - i give it a try and send the whole package back and try another one. If this unit will have the same problem, i will ask Ezviz for another powerkit (with all resistors).
I tried 3 Power Supplies + 1 Labaratory Power Supply, 3 analog chimes, 1 digital chime and changed all wires - I also tried to factory reset the unit and went back to the original Ezviz-FW.
Have you read these post?

From our 101:
⦁ If your Chime has suddenly stopped working (2020) - TechBill, TechBill - misally
 

moista

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Have you read these post?

From our 101:
⦁ If your Chime has suddenly stopped working (2020) - TechBill, TechBill - misally
Yes, I'm aware ot this. My Problem is, that after some time Phantom-Ringing occurs (Chime is ringing, but nobody pressed the button and there is no Notification in the App).
BTW: I tried all modes, the App suggests: mechanical chime, digital chime and no chime; none of them works as expected.
 

David L

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Yes, I'm aware ot this. My Problem is, that after some time Phantom-Ringing occurs (Chime is ringing, but nobody pressed the button and there is no Notification in the App).
BTW: I tried all modes, the App suggests: mechanical chime, digital chime and no chime; none of them works as expected.
I am just looking for ways to help, I do know somewhere way back there was a discussion about the power kit and if you chose Mech. they found it would sent out different timing power cycles to the Chime than if you chose Digital/Electronic Chime, they were trying to figure out what was the difference between the two. I think they were using an Oscilloscope. i know this does not help you but just sharing...Hopefully someone will Chime in since I am drowning here :)
 

moista

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The only Diffence I saw (well, just on the surface, no Oscilloscope here) is a ~0.5 seconds rining on mode "mechanical" and 1s to 5s (if i rememer the range correctly) in mode "digital".
I tried to monitor the current & voltage in hope of finding something suspicious like a peak, spike, etc... But tried so many options, and because of this, it's unlikely, that I'm making something wrong but you never know ;)
The device makes a good impression, so i will give it a try with a replacement.

Sorry, if my answers sounds a little rude, englisch is not my primary language ;) Anyway: Thanks for helping ;)
 

pete_c

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What is the voltage / amperage of your current AC Doorbell transformer?

Googling found this:

“Phantom” ringing that happens at random times is typically due to fluctuations in the voltage sent to your chime. While small power spikes usually won’t cause the chime to sound, larger ones can.

Here utilize an Elk 960 debounce board for the doorbell button and configured the video doorbell on the workbench connected to an aux AC transformer.
 

moista

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I tried it with:
  • 12V, 1A AC (regular Din-Rail Transformer)
  • 24V, 2A AC (Transformer for Surveilance Camera Systems)
  • 8V-16V-24V, 1,5A AC (regular Din-Rail Transformer with 3 Connections for different voltages)
  • Labatory Power Supply, tried with 12V and 24V DC @ max 5A (to avoid frying something I limited it to 1A-2A with overcurrent-protection)
I tried the labaratory one to test it with DC, because this would be simple to filter spikes. And another thing: I tried to keep the devices apart and used wires only as long as necessary to avoid problems (talk-over, whatever).
I did not send the unit back yet. I will try a last try with longer cables and try to shield the components to exclude possible spikes; maybe i can check it with a 12v Battery to even exclude spikes on the power grid ;)

/edit: Nope, did not work. One thing i noticed: if i turn off the light, the IR-LEDs will become active after a few seconds - in that moment, more current is flowing through the chime (it begins vibrating, but not enough to move the core in the coil against the bell). After pressing the doorbell, the chime rings and everything is normal; its like the powerkit is not adjusting to the "new" current and is only bypassing the current it sees initially.
 
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andycots

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Has anyone manged to get an alert to auto show on an echo either direct or through BI and the chime through echos, does it still work through SThings, i heard Echo speaks had stopped and only a lite version is available.

Thanks
 

David L

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The only Diffence I saw (well, just on the surface, no Oscilloscope here) is a ~0.5 seconds rining on mode "mechanical" and 1s to 5s (if i rememer the range correctly) in mode "digital".
I tried to monitor the current & voltage in hope of finding something suspicious like a peak, spike, etc... But tried so many options, and because of this, it's unlikely, that I'm making something wrong but you never know ;)
The device makes a good impression, so i will give it a try with a replacement.

Sorry, if my answers sounds a little rude, englisch is not my primary language ;) Anyway: Thanks for helping ;)
Not rude at all. Very good English, I wish I knew more German, my mother and her family were from Chemnitz...before East Germany split. I have been to your country about 4 times now, love it there...
 

pete_c

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One thing i noticed: if i turn off the light, the IR-LEDs will become active after a few seconds - in that moment, more current is flowing through the chime

I noticed the same when I adjusted the new current sensor switch. Not the chime part rather it was triggering the new current switch.

Sounds like it your Video Doorbell is not functioning correctly. That said just return / exchange it for another one.
 

DramaQ

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Hey guys, I just installed the EZVIZ DB1 doorbell today. When a person gets close to the doorbell, it doesn't capture a clear image of the person. It's pitch black. Please see the attached. Any idea on how to fix this issue?
 

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Pantino

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I will try that out. Thanks!
In fact, the camera is useless for a significant percentage of installations without using the Hikvision tools. In my town of over 100k people for example, I can confidently say that at least 99% of single family dwellings have a covered porch similar to yours. I experienced the exact same scenario and turning on WDR with default settings cleared it right up. I can't believe they market these cameras without this setting exposed in their default mobile apps.
 

moista

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Again a little Status Update:

At first, now i got 2 devices laying around - thanks to amazon i have some time to send back the faulty unit.
I spend now over 2 hours to get the new Unit working - i tried it with the following options:
  • EZVIZ App (the regular way)
    Problem: After configuring WiFi, the Device connects successfully to WLAN (i can view the livestream for example), but the App says, it could not configure the device
  • Hikvision App - same Problem
  • I tried the manual way with batch Configuration Tool (like the Apps, the Network Configuration is successful) and tried to add the Device over Ezviz Web and Hik-Connect. But it isn't possible, it quits with "The device is offline. No search result is found. " after entering the Serial-Number.
Don't know, what I'm missing, but with the other unit, all this ways worked - mysterious. I also tried the latest Ezviz and hikvision FW.

The Big Problem now is, i cant test the chime, because without App it is not impossible to set the type of chime - and out of the Box it is not working, so i guess the default chime-mode is "none". Now i have to contact the Support i think.

And I took a look at the powerkit - you will not guess :D There are no missing resistors! :smash:Maybe this is the whole cause of the problem, as @fredkruger already guessed.

My todo-list now:
  1. contact Ezviz to unlock/register the S/N
    if this fails, contact amazon and take all the functional parts (old doorbell, new powerkit) and send back the other stuff
    little sidenote: The Doorbell arrived in original packaging (box with this kind of cellophane), but it was obvious, that this doorbell is not 100% new; there were fingerprints and the wires are used.
  2. test everything
  3. flash Hikvision FW
  4. test again
  5. and finally/hopefully install it
Hmm, Plug & Play is no longer what it seems to be :D
 
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