due to this being a IP camera website, I thought it would be nice to have some kind of DIY guide to cabling a house. I composed something really quick this evening to share my experiences. Hopefully, when all said and done, we can add "DIY Home Wiring" to the Wiki page.
Breaking things up into chapters, I guess. First, acquiring the tools to get the job done. I would like others to join in and give their opinions and suggestions. I do this professionally so sometimes I over look a non-professional method which involves $$$ and wiring vocabulary.
Home Cabling Suggestions:
Proper tools to purchase:
Glow rod fishing sticks: #1 most efficient tool to run any wire in a house or business environment. Costing from $30 to $80. What defines quality? How thick the rods are (some are ⅛”, some are ¼”, some are ⅜”, etc). Thicker the rod, less ‘bend’ when going across a 6’-20’ span between ceiling wood joists, for example. That has it’s pro’s and con’s because sometimes you need to bend the heck out of the rods in tight spaces or have to deal with a ¼” hole that was drilled. Also the brass threaded ends are less in length allowing for more bending, but at the cost of more fragility to break. For infrequent DIY purpose, I say go for the $30 versions. For sure, get rods that have hooks, chains, all the accessory tips.
Fishing Pull Line String: #2 most important to have in conjunction with glow rod sticks or fishing line metal/fiberglass reels (fish tape). Many times, running fiber sticks up through a hole is fine and dandy, but now you have to pull 2 or 4 cables down through a ½” hole you drilled to a cut out box. Can you ONLY use the fiber sticks? Sure at times, but they do not have anywhere near the ‘torque’ you may need to apply a REAL hard pull. This is where pull string comes into play. 200+ lbs of tensile strength for string compared to…15-20 lbs of fiber sticks (those brass ends of sticks are just crimped on, btw). So what you do is to have a 10’ length of string attached to the tip of your sticks, and at the other end of the string you connect your cable head with string slacked at the hole. You pull down the sticks, which in turn pulls down the 1/16” thin string out of your cutout. Now you can finish using your hands to pull the string and cable all the way. String is reusable, btw. Can use the next pull with the same 10’ length of string.
Fish tape. Before fiber sticks were around, everyone used fish tapes to get down insulated walls and ceilings. They get caught on drywall screw, a electrical thermostat box 7’ high on the wall, or simply get jammed up by the insulation. Those were rough years
They still serve as a fantastic tool because sometimes, you just simply can not use fiber sticks due to too tight of a bend or no space. Plus, you run metal fish tape in lengths of conduit so you can pull back either string or wire. I prefer metal fish tapes as they are stiff and create less friction in piping, especially if there are 90 degree sweeps involved. Fiberglass fish tapes are lighter and easier on the hands, but tend to get jammed up because it creates more friction and just not as stiff.
Wiring snips. Do not use your kitchen shears. These snips cut networking cable, tie wraps, … just about anything (even seat belts). They are small, come with cushioned grips, and get the job done. Every household should have 2 or 3 sets of these things laying around. And you will be doing lots of cutting, lots.
Wire lube. Sometimes, you will have a bunch of cable to pull down a tight fitted hole or through a length of conduit. 4 cables in a ¾” pipe….no problem, right? Add in 45 degree angle here, 90 degree angle there. Pretty soon, you have so much friction to pull against. Lube solves this issue. Sure, you could use dish washing soap in a pinch. But dedicated wiring lube will not leave crusty sketchy residue after you are all done and does not dry out as fast. Mostly used when metal or PVC or blue smurf tube conduit is needed. For the price, everyone should have wire lube in their household!
Punch down tool. For under $20, just get one. You will have wall jacks and patch panels to terminate. Sure, can just lay the copper wire in it’s slot by hand and then snip the wires like they must of done back in the 1940’s. You only need the 110 blade, not the 66 blade. 110 blade is for wall plate jacks. 66 blade is for AT&T (and me) telephone technicians. Some punch tools come with the combo blade of 110/66. That’s fine too.
Crimpers and test kits. You will learn how to terminate modular RJ45 plugs for Cat5e/Cat6. For that, you need a crimper. Any crimper that works on Cat5e will work on Cat6. You may THINK you will never use a crimper. But sometimes, you want to poke the Cat6 cable straight out a wall or through a cement wall with a ⅛” drill bit instead of the needed ½” hole for wire+plug end. This happens alot, actually, especially with outdoor cameras or WiFi access points through ceilings. Test kits are used to validate you did the termination correctly on both ends. You do not need those $15k Fluke network testers for home DIY installs. Just a little pin out tester to ensure you did terminate in the correct sequence. If you terminate out of sequence, things will not work. Hence, you actually do need a tester.
Sharpie markers. You need chisel points, NOT fine point markers. You use Sharpies to label wire as you pull that wire. Suppose I have 4 cables to pull upstairs. I label the box they are coming out of as 1, 2, 3, 4. I label the tip of the wire 1, 2, 3, 4….3x’s at 12” length between the labeling. Why? Just in case one of the labels gets rubbed off or cut off (it does happen). So yes…from the end of wire tip, 12” back you label your wire, 12” from that label, you do it again. I guess you could just do it 2x’s. But I’ve actually have had times where both labels were rubbed off. So my standard practice is 3x’s. Once the cables are to length (I prefer 12” extra wire at the final home), you label the wires back at the box FIRST and then cut them from the boxes. Don’t want to cut then label. Something could come distract you inbetween all that and now you have 4 identical cables without labels.
J-Hooks. Do try to use these if possible. You want runs of cable to be ‘managed’ meaning to be bundled and out of the way from future folks stepping/crushing cables and freedom of movement. Future HVAC or Charter Spectrum techs will have no qualms stepping and crushing your network cable that happens to be right where they have to step on that 2x4 truss. I have a 3’ attic space so unable (er….unwilling) to crawl around and install J-Hooks to keep all the cabling up and out of the way. However, in my garage and 1st floor trusses or wherever I have access,, I use them religiously.
Labeler. When you have all cabling done, you will want to label your faceplates, jacks, patch panel, etc so 6 months down the road, you know what patch panel port number goes where. Suppose 2 years from now, that number 23 jack in the kitchen is not live. You simply raise your chin up in pride, go to the patch panel, and patch cord in patch panel port 23 to your switch. Done! Other wise, have to go get a wire toner (a $100 item) and so some additional work. They have white background with black fonts, or clear background with black fonts. Careful if you go clear background as your greasy dirty finger prints will be visible on the label. Wash hands or use gloves. Plus, a brother labeler is multi-purpose in the house. Can label your kids with their names on their forehead.
Headlamp and/or flashlight. It’s pitch black where the sun does not shine. You need to see those fiberglass fishing rods sticking up through the top of the ceiling, or need to see what’s waaaaay over there in the corner. At times, you will have tools in your hand. Or very limited on space where you can not swing your arm forward. This is where you use a headlamp. I’d go for the battery operated ones instead of the rechargeables. Tried rechargeable and it died on me without warning in a spooky spot. At least the battery ones will slowly die giving you time to do something about it. However, the rechargeable ones give a wider area of coverage. So….eh…….you make the call.
Velcro + Tie Wraps. Officially, you are not suppose to use tie wraps on Cat6 to bundle wrap and keep things organized. I do, as long as do not cinch down. I still prefer to use velcro everywhere as much as possible. Leave extra couple inches for each wrap you do in case you add cabling in the future. You can pull a wiring pull string easily through velcroed bundle as well (a big plus). Tie wraps, you have to cut off which can not be reused. However, both velcro and tie wraps serve a purpose here & there. Plus, multi purpose for just about anything house related. Can’t go wrong with velcro in the house.
Drywall knife/jab saw. You will be using this tool to cut into drywall for your faceplate brackets or to make access holes you later patch up. Never used a folding jab saw before. I really jab my saw into drywall (sometimes, double ¾” thick). Wouldn’t want the thing to collapse on my fingers But for standard household DIY, should be ok.
Drill bits. You will need the standard assortment of drill bits to drill holes into trusses, walls, studs, etc. But also, you may need something like a ½” paddle bit to run 2 or more cables through. You may also need a ¼” bit that is larger than the width of your wall so that you can slide that single Cat6 through that outside wall that is 4” or sometimes even 6” deep. I carry a ⅜” x 12” long bit all the time with me at work for 1 or 2 cables to go through walls. I then stick my fiber stick through to pull the cable. ⅜” drill bit because ¼” is too small for the fiber stick brass ends. This is also the time to know if you need a masonry bit for brick or concrete penetrations. FYI: a ½” hole saw leaves a much nicer cleaner hole than a paddle bit in drywall.
Breaking things up into chapters, I guess. First, acquiring the tools to get the job done. I would like others to join in and give their opinions and suggestions. I do this professionally so sometimes I over look a non-professional method which involves $$$ and wiring vocabulary.
Home Cabling Suggestions:
Proper tools to purchase:
Glow rod fishing sticks: #1 most efficient tool to run any wire in a house or business environment. Costing from $30 to $80. What defines quality? How thick the rods are (some are ⅛”, some are ¼”, some are ⅜”, etc). Thicker the rod, less ‘bend’ when going across a 6’-20’ span between ceiling wood joists, for example. That has it’s pro’s and con’s because sometimes you need to bend the heck out of the rods in tight spaces or have to deal with a ¼” hole that was drilled. Also the brass threaded ends are less in length allowing for more bending, but at the cost of more fragility to break. For infrequent DIY purpose, I say go for the $30 versions. For sure, get rods that have hooks, chains, all the accessory tips.
Fishing Pull Line String: #2 most important to have in conjunction with glow rod sticks or fishing line metal/fiberglass reels (fish tape). Many times, running fiber sticks up through a hole is fine and dandy, but now you have to pull 2 or 4 cables down through a ½” hole you drilled to a cut out box. Can you ONLY use the fiber sticks? Sure at times, but they do not have anywhere near the ‘torque’ you may need to apply a REAL hard pull. This is where pull string comes into play. 200+ lbs of tensile strength for string compared to…15-20 lbs of fiber sticks (those brass ends of sticks are just crimped on, btw). So what you do is to have a 10’ length of string attached to the tip of your sticks, and at the other end of the string you connect your cable head with string slacked at the hole. You pull down the sticks, which in turn pulls down the 1/16” thin string out of your cutout. Now you can finish using your hands to pull the string and cable all the way. String is reusable, btw. Can use the next pull with the same 10’ length of string.
Fish tape. Before fiber sticks were around, everyone used fish tapes to get down insulated walls and ceilings. They get caught on drywall screw, a electrical thermostat box 7’ high on the wall, or simply get jammed up by the insulation. Those were rough years
They still serve as a fantastic tool because sometimes, you just simply can not use fiber sticks due to too tight of a bend or no space. Plus, you run metal fish tape in lengths of conduit so you can pull back either string or wire. I prefer metal fish tapes as they are stiff and create less friction in piping, especially if there are 90 degree sweeps involved. Fiberglass fish tapes are lighter and easier on the hands, but tend to get jammed up because it creates more friction and just not as stiff.Wiring snips. Do not use your kitchen shears. These snips cut networking cable, tie wraps, … just about anything (even seat belts). They are small, come with cushioned grips, and get the job done. Every household should have 2 or 3 sets of these things laying around. And you will be doing lots of cutting, lots.
Wire lube. Sometimes, you will have a bunch of cable to pull down a tight fitted hole or through a length of conduit. 4 cables in a ¾” pipe….no problem, right? Add in 45 degree angle here, 90 degree angle there. Pretty soon, you have so much friction to pull against. Lube solves this issue. Sure, you could use dish washing soap in a pinch. But dedicated wiring lube will not leave crusty sketchy residue after you are all done and does not dry out as fast. Mostly used when metal or PVC or blue smurf tube conduit is needed. For the price, everyone should have wire lube in their household!
Punch down tool. For under $20, just get one. You will have wall jacks and patch panels to terminate. Sure, can just lay the copper wire in it’s slot by hand and then snip the wires like they must of done back in the 1940’s. You only need the 110 blade, not the 66 blade. 110 blade is for wall plate jacks. 66 blade is for AT&T (and me) telephone technicians. Some punch tools come with the combo blade of 110/66. That’s fine too.
Crimpers and test kits. You will learn how to terminate modular RJ45 plugs for Cat5e/Cat6. For that, you need a crimper. Any crimper that works on Cat5e will work on Cat6. You may THINK you will never use a crimper. But sometimes, you want to poke the Cat6 cable straight out a wall or through a cement wall with a ⅛” drill bit instead of the needed ½” hole for wire+plug end. This happens alot, actually, especially with outdoor cameras or WiFi access points through ceilings. Test kits are used to validate you did the termination correctly on both ends. You do not need those $15k Fluke network testers for home DIY installs. Just a little pin out tester to ensure you did terminate in the correct sequence. If you terminate out of sequence, things will not work. Hence, you actually do need a tester.
Sharpie markers. You need chisel points, NOT fine point markers. You use Sharpies to label wire as you pull that wire. Suppose I have 4 cables to pull upstairs. I label the box they are coming out of as 1, 2, 3, 4. I label the tip of the wire 1, 2, 3, 4….3x’s at 12” length between the labeling. Why? Just in case one of the labels gets rubbed off or cut off (it does happen). So yes…from the end of wire tip, 12” back you label your wire, 12” from that label, you do it again. I guess you could just do it 2x’s. But I’ve actually have had times where both labels were rubbed off. So my standard practice is 3x’s. Once the cables are to length (I prefer 12” extra wire at the final home), you label the wires back at the box FIRST and then cut them from the boxes. Don’t want to cut then label. Something could come distract you inbetween all that and now you have 4 identical cables without labels.
J-Hooks. Do try to use these if possible. You want runs of cable to be ‘managed’ meaning to be bundled and out of the way from future folks stepping/crushing cables and freedom of movement. Future HVAC or Charter Spectrum techs will have no qualms stepping and crushing your network cable that happens to be right where they have to step on that 2x4 truss. I have a 3’ attic space so unable (er….unwilling) to crawl around and install J-Hooks to keep all the cabling up and out of the way. However, in my garage and 1st floor trusses or wherever I have access,, I use them religiously.
Labeler. When you have all cabling done, you will want to label your faceplates, jacks, patch panel, etc so 6 months down the road, you know what patch panel port number goes where. Suppose 2 years from now, that number 23 jack in the kitchen is not live. You simply raise your chin up in pride, go to the patch panel, and patch cord in patch panel port 23 to your switch. Done! Other wise, have to go get a wire toner (a $100 item) and so some additional work. They have white background with black fonts, or clear background with black fonts. Careful if you go clear background as your greasy dirty finger prints will be visible on the label. Wash hands or use gloves. Plus, a brother labeler is multi-purpose in the house. Can label your kids with their names on their forehead.
Headlamp and/or flashlight. It’s pitch black where the sun does not shine. You need to see those fiberglass fishing rods sticking up through the top of the ceiling, or need to see what’s waaaaay over there in the corner. At times, you will have tools in your hand. Or very limited on space where you can not swing your arm forward. This is where you use a headlamp. I’d go for the battery operated ones instead of the rechargeables. Tried rechargeable and it died on me without warning in a spooky spot. At least the battery ones will slowly die giving you time to do something about it. However, the rechargeable ones give a wider area of coverage. So….eh…….you make the call.
Velcro + Tie Wraps. Officially, you are not suppose to use tie wraps on Cat6 to bundle wrap and keep things organized. I do, as long as do not cinch down. I still prefer to use velcro everywhere as much as possible. Leave extra couple inches for each wrap you do in case you add cabling in the future. You can pull a wiring pull string easily through velcroed bundle as well (a big plus). Tie wraps, you have to cut off which can not be reused. However, both velcro and tie wraps serve a purpose here & there. Plus, multi purpose for just about anything house related. Can’t go wrong with velcro in the house.
Drywall knife/jab saw. You will be using this tool to cut into drywall for your faceplate brackets or to make access holes you later patch up. Never used a folding jab saw before. I really jab my saw into drywall (sometimes, double ¾” thick). Wouldn’t want the thing to collapse on my fingers
But for standard household DIY, should be ok.Drill bits. You will need the standard assortment of drill bits to drill holes into trusses, walls, studs, etc. But also, you may need something like a ½” paddle bit to run 2 or more cables through. You may also need a ¼” bit that is larger than the width of your wall so that you can slide that single Cat6 through that outside wall that is 4” or sometimes even 6” deep. I carry a ⅜” x 12” long bit all the time with me at work for 1 or 2 cables to go through walls. I then stick my fiber stick through to pull the cable. ⅜” drill bit because ¼” is too small for the fiber stick brass ends. This is also the time to know if you need a masonry bit for brick or concrete penetrations. FYI: a ½” hole saw leaves a much nicer cleaner hole than a paddle bit in drywall.
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