Some thoughts on installing a Dahua turret with a PFA130-E junction box

Flachzange

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I am curious about your expert views on the way how Dahua cams (and probably many others) are mounted, especially in combination with a junction box.

First of all, I had no previous experience with CCTV/IP cams and their installation. So, some of the following statements and observations may seem obvious or naive.

I am now operating 4 Dahua-based cams and 1 more to come. 3 out of 4 are turret cams that are combined with a PFA130-E junction box. The turrets are mounted upside down at the wooden parts underneath the roof (overhang). I had to get completely new cables from the rack in the basement to those spots. When I planned the camera project, I did not know how to get the cables into the camera itself respectively how the connection physically works out. So I ordered the cameras first and then thought about the next steps.

When the cameras arrived, I was surprised about the fixed mounted, and fixed length pigtail. I was expecting a more modular approach, which would allow for more flexibility. Bottom line: I needed some kind of junction box although I knew this would made the overall appearance of the camera even larger.

My observation:
  • The quality of the junction box is rather good, especially with the torx screws. Good first impression.
  • The box seems huge but getting the pigtail and the network cable in, is very tricky
  • I can hardly fit the combination of RJ45 connector of the cable attached to the pigtail in that box without torturing the cables a bit (both attached together are actually too long). => What is best way to attach cable and pigtail and not running into that problem?
  • Mounting the camera to the junction box with only two hands is somewhat impossible as there seems to be a design flaw with the mounting (at least with the larger turret cams): There is a lid attached to the box (hold with a metal cable if screws are not fixed). Potentially this should be able to hold the lid PLUS an attached camera. However, it is not possible to mount the camera to the lid as the lid needs to go first to the box. As a result, you need to mount the lid and then the basis of the camera to the lid, while holding the eye ball of the camera in a third hand as the pig tail already needs to be connected to the cable in the box. After that it is required to get the remaining pig tail cable into the box while holding the eye ball and fixating the rubber seal at the same time. Installation Nightmare :)
  • A G3/4 screw thread is pretty much non-standard outside the imperial world. In Germany, you would use it only for plumbing but not in electrical installations
Why do they do fixed pigtails? When do they make sense?
What is best practice to connect cable and pigtail?

Looking forward reading you comments.

Chris
 

sebastiantombs

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I have to agree that juggling the ball of the camera while installing the box cover then the camera base is a little tricky. I usually just let the camera sort of dangle. More than once I've forgotten to put the base on before threading through the box cover and attaching the box cover, grrrrr. I try to coil the cable inside the box with the camera wedged or held in place to make sure no kinks happen and try to leave just enough to allow the camera to be rotated for final installation. It does get easier with time but is always a balancing act on a ladder.

Even with the PFA130 to protect the cable it pays to use dielectric grease on the RJ45, self vulcanizing tape (Coax Seal) covering the gland and extending onto the cables for an inch or so then a wrap of quality electrical tape. I always have the cable enter at the bottom of the box and usually use conduit rather than just cable. That is dependent on the specific installation though.
 

Flachzange

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Even with the PFA130 to protect the cable it pays to use dielectric grease on the RJ45, self vulcanizing tape (Coax Seal) covering the gland and extending onto the cables for an inch or so then a wrap of quality electrical tape. I always have the cable enter at the bottom of the box and usually use conduit rather than just cable. That is dependent on the specific installation though.
Thanks for the hint. That is indeed something I missed, but let's see what comes first, oxidated connection or new camera :cool:
 

sebastiantombs

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Just know that you may see the results of oxidation after it's done its' damage. Even the minor condensation from temperature changes with just the gland in place can cause arching and burn out the connections. Then you're stuck with a rewire of the camera RJ to get things going again.
 

SpacemanSpiff

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Good 'ol IPCT wiki that discusses mount options... IP Cam Talk Cliff Notes

Ideas on mounting to the soffit:

@Wildcat_1 prefers the PFA121 & 122 boxes... they have a slightly slightly larger footprint, but I believe it allows you to mount the camera to the faceplate on the bench/ground, etc. Then you are only juggling the single piece of hardware while trying to connect and manage the cables once on the ladder.
 

mat200

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I also now prefer the PFA121 / PFA122 boxes .. share the same base and I have more flexibility in the future to change out the tops from 3 screw to 4 screw camera bases ..
 

SpacemanSpiff

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Since I'm OCD the 12X boxes are a no go for me. They're square, which if sine for a bullet camera, but not so much for a turret/ball/eyeball form factor.
Agree, using a square box with a turret cam looks odd and I would have to explain to my wife :)
...
Agreed! First choice is round box for round camera... both with similar diameters. However, future mounts in high and/or precarious locations will be assessed for a possible PFA12x option.
 

Wildcat_1

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Good 'ol IPCT wiki that discusses mount options... IP Cam Talk Cliff Notes

Ideas on mounting to the soffit:

@Wildcat_1 prefers the PFA121 & 122 boxes... they have a slightly slightly larger footprint, but I believe it allows you to mount the camera to the faceplate on the bench/ground, etc. Then you are only juggling the single piece of hardware while trying to connect and manage the cables once on the ladder.
Yes I like the quick change element of using the 121 & 122's as I've shared before BUT certainly understand that some people prefer the aesthetics of the round 130's etc
 

Flachzange

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Coming back to the RJ45 connection .This is from the Wiki and the Dahua description
1649965664450.png

Obviously this will only work with a standard / crimped plug for patch cable. What is the intended solution for installation cable, which I cannot crimp?

Typically, I use connectors like this, but as described above: they hardly fit into the box.
RJ45.jpg
 

SpacemanSpiff

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:wow: that looks bulletproof.

My guess is that overall length is keeping it from fitting in the box. So leaving off the waterproof hardware that came with the camera will not help. Either you'll need to get a bigger box, or invest in a modular RJ-45 crimper and connectors.
 
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I have to agree that juggling the ball of the camera while installing the box cover then the camera base is a little tricky. I usually just let the camera sort of dangle. More than once I've forgotten to put the base on before threading through the box cover and attaching the box cover, grrrrr. I try to coil the cable inside the box with the camera wedged or held in place to make sure no kinks happen and try to leave just enough to allow the camera to be rotated for final installation. It does get easier with time but is always a balancing act on a ladder. <snip>
It's refreshing to hear that the whole juggling, dangling, threading, coiling operation on a ladder is standard procedure and that I wasn't overlooking anything obvious :thumb:
 

Griswalduk

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Coming back to the RJ45 connection .This is from the Wiki and the Dahua description
View attachment 125212

Obviously this will only work with a standard / crimped plug for patch cable. What is the intended solution for installation cable, which I cannot crimp?

Typically, I use connectors like this, but as described above: they hardly fit into the box.
View attachment 125268
I use the rj45 connector sealing kits that comes with the camera. These will go into the junction box just fine though from memory you might have to spin the lid as the steel support wire and screws can get in the way.

During install the weight of the camera can be supported by either a makeshift improvised shelf at the top of the ladder or a small bag / pouch worn around your neck or fastened to the ladder. The shelf doesn't need to be pretty or if you ask nicely Mrs Flachzange might have something suitable :D

Connector wise i used pass through connectors and appropriate crimping pliers. See links


 
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Flachzange

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There seem to be regional differences and standards. For stranded wire as used in patch kabels, we crimp (e.g. AWG26/7). The cable I used is AWG23/1 which is, at typically not working with standard 8P8C Plugs. Hence, the above mentioned connectors that make use of LSA. However, I was now able to find crimpable 8P8C plugs suitable for AWG23/1, which I will try now.
 

Griswalduk

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There seem to be regional differences and standards. For stranded wire as used in patch kabels, we crimp (e.g. AWG26/7). The cable I used is AWG23/1 which is, at typically not working with standard 8P8C Plugs. Hence, the above mentioned connectors that make use of LSA. However, I was now able to find crimpable 8P8C plugs suitable for AWG23/1, which I will try now.
I used Molex power cat 6 cable and it terminated into the cat 6 connectors above ok. I can't remember the AWG though. For reference the cat 6 connectors are backwards compatible so can be used on cat 5E cables as well.

I've never crimped the stranded flexible type cable you mention. Any patch cables i use are pre terminated.

It sounds like your making progress. Keep us posted
 
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