So Reolink is bad? What's a suggested replacement for my selections then?

mat200

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I'm currently looking at the below. The budget is somewhat flexible from this but not looking to go significantly higher.

1 POE PTZ
2 5MP Outdoor Wifi for location unreachable by POE
4 8MP POE Bullet Cams
2 4MP Wifi Indoor P/T Cameras
16 Channel POE NVR w/ 3 TB drive included

Total Cost $1,223.77
Welcome @EOAEvan

Yes, numerous issues with Reolink, you can search for threads which cover it in more detail:

Reolink, to make great profits and sell cameras at those price points, they use cheaper more affordable components and modify the firmware to give better low light images of objects which do not move. Leaving the impression to those who do not know better that the image capture in low light conditions is good.

While the price and initial specs may seem good .. once you try to get it to perform in low light conditions you will have failures of this kit to capture good images of moving suspects.

RLC-823A
RLC-511WA
RLC-811A
Reolink E1 Pro
RLN16-410 NVR

The big problem with going Reolink is that they are not that compatible with standards .. and thus you can not simply add 1-2 better Hikvision or Dahua OEM cameras to that system to cover your most critical low light areas.

Better performing cameras will cost you more.

Perhaps better to start with fewer better cameras if you are tight on budget ..
 
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wittaj

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Wifi and cameras do not go together.

There are always ways if you don't want to run an ethernet cable.

You need power anyway, so go with a powerline adapter and run the date over your electric lines or use a nano-station.

Maybe you are fine now one day with wifi cams, but one day something will happen. A new device, neighbors microwave, etc.

Cameras connected to Wifi routers (whether wifi or not) are problematic for surveillance cameras because they are always streaming and passing data. And the data demands go up with motion and then you lose signal. A lost packet and it has to resend. It can bring the whole network down if trying to send cameras through a wifi router. At the very least it can slow down your entire system.

Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent, especially once you start adding distance. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes - mine goes 45 seconds. Now do the same with a camera connected to a router and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...

The same issue applies even with the hard-wired cameras trying to send all this non-buffer video stream through a router. Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras, and since they do not buffer, you get these issues. The consumer routers are just not designed for this kind of traffic, even a GB speed router.

So the more cameras you add, the bigger the potential for issues.

Many people unfortunately think wifi cameras are the answer and they are not. People will say what about Ring and Nest - well that is another whole host of issues that we will not discuss here LOL, but they are not streaming 24/7, only when you pull up the app. And then we see all the people come here after that system failed them because their wifi couldn't keep up when the perp came by. For streaming 24/7 to something like Blue Iris, forget about it if you want reliability.
 

wittaj

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What Reolinks make up for in Daytime, they are horrible at night, especially with motion. Any camera can look great at night for a static image. Motion is what we need to capture.

What you mean a missing hand isn't normal LOL :lmao:


1665534745515.png

How about missing everything but the head and upper torso :lmao:

The invisible man, where can he be. Thank goodness he is carrying around a reflective plate to see where he is LOL (hint - the person is literally in the middle of the image at the end of the fence)

I've seen better images on an episode of ghost hunters :lmao:

1665534785061.png


And of course, this is an example from Reolink's marketing videos - do you see a person in this picture...yes, there is a person in this picture.... Could this provide anything useful for the police other than the date and time something happened? Would this protect your home? The still picture looks great though except for the person and the blur of the vehicle... Will give you a hint - the person is in between the two visible columns:

1665534814298.png

Bad Boys
Bad Boys
Watcha gonna do
Watcha gonna do
When the camera can't see you


Check out this thread:

 

wittaj

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You would be better off starting slower and building the system than wasting the money only to replace it in less than a year.

See this thread that shows the importance of focal length over MP. Too many people get fascinated with MP and Reolink is an expert of taking advantage of that by selling 8MP cameras on a sensor designed for 720p or 1080p, so it is poor at night.

This thread is complete with the commonly recommended cameras based on overall performance and cost. Are there more expensive cameras - yes, but we don't feel they are worth the extra. Are there cheaper alternatives, yes, but then they suffer with night time quality.



But if budget is truly a concern, then get Amcrest models at the equivalent price points as the reolinks and you would be better off than the reo.
 

mat200

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I'm currently looking at the below. The budget is somewhat flexible from this but not looking to go significantly higher.

1 POE PTZ
2 5MP Outdoor Wifi for location unreachable by POE
4 8MP POE Bullet Cams
2 4MP Wifi Indoor P/T Cameras
16 Channel POE NVR w/ 3 TB drive included

Total Cost $1,223.77
Hi @EOAEvan

Is this your first IP PoE camera?

If so, I highly recommend just getting one good 4mp 1/1.8" varifocal camera and start to play around with it, play with possible positions, play with the FOV, and tuning parameters.
 

EOAEvan

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Wifi and cameras do not go together.

What Reolinks make up for in Daytime, they are horrible at night, especially with motion. Any camera can look great at night for a static image. Motion is what we need to capture.

See this thread that shows the importance of focal length over MP
Lots of good points. The 2 outdoor wifi cameras are going to a detached garage so no easy way to get a cat5 cable out there. It does however have power near where it's going so that's at least not a problem. I'll have to take another look at powerline adapters. Last I heard they weren't reliable due to noise but maybe that's no longer the case.

I'll admit from the limited research I had done so far the issues with night capture was my main concern. But seemed all similar models at this price point had the same problem.

The cameras from reolink are verifocal up to f=2.7-13.5mm F=1.6-3.3, with IR cut so based on your link is probably good up to 30 ft. While this would work for several of my locations it doesnt seem to outweigh the other issues/cheap parts.


Hi @EOAEvan

Is this your first IP PoE camera?

If so, I highly recommend just getting one good 4mp 1/1.8" varifocal camera and start to play around with it, play with possible positions, play with the FOV, and tuning parameters.
Yes, first POE set and not bad advice. I've had some previous experience with this Lorex wireless set that worked well enough for what we used it for at a temporary location but not what I would want to use at our home.

Thanks all for the responses. Looks like I have some more research to do.
 

sebastiantombs

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For your garage camera and network link consider using a dedicated encrypted RF link. No problems like powerline adapters have and plenty of bandwidth to handle at least a half dozen 4MP or 8MP cameras. You'd need a small PoE switch out there, but that could be the case with powerline adapters as well. I have a Nano Station Loco M5 set up between a shed and the house. It supports three cameras, 2-2MP and a 4MP, with hardly tickling the bandwidth and, other than power failures, never drops a signal. While these are wireless they are not WiFI and have a relatively narrow beam width antenna so they do need to be aligned and have a clear line of sight.

Ubiquity Nano Station Loco M5

TP Link Bridge
 
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wittaj

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From my experience, the powerline adapters either work or they don't - it is a digital signal. But if they work, they will be more reliable than wifi. Or get the ubiquity nanostation.

At nighttime, a reolink varifocal at 13.5mm with a large 3.3 Fstop means that even more funny business will be happening internally to favor a bright static image as a lot more light is needed. I think 30 feet would be even more useless because of that.

But yeah if night performance is a concern, stay away from the reo.
 
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Lots of good points. The 2 outdoor wifi cameras are going to a detached garage so no easy way to get a cat5 cable out there. It does however have power near where it's going so that's at least not a problem. I'll have to take another look at powerline adapters. Last I heard they weren't reliable due to noise but maybe that's no longer the case.

I'll admit from the limited research I had done so far the issues with night capture was my main concern. But seemed all similar models at this price point had the same problem.

The cameras from reolink are verifocal up to f=2.7-13.5mm F=1.6-3.3, with IR cut so based on your link is probably good up to 30 ft. While this would work for several of my locations it doesnt seem to outweigh the other issues/cheap parts.




Yes, first POE set and not bad advice. I've had some previous experience with this Lorex wireless set that worked well enough for what we used it for at a temporary location but not what I would want to use at our home.

Thanks all for the responses. Looks like I have some more research to do.
Effectively, REOLINK LIES in their marketing, as does every other low-end camera system. I was expecting someone to also tell you "Don't chase megapixels-- chase SENSOR SIZE!" -- but nobody had offered that to you yet (until now!)
and--- Welcome to the Dark Side...

1665591979404.png
 

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I just want to add one thing to all the good comments above, scrap the 3TB drive, it is going to be inadequate for the number of cams you are planning. 6 TB would probably be OK, bigger would be better. 4 TB works for me, two cams record 24/7, and three record on motion triggers. I get about 4 weeks on my current setup. I Just added an eight MP to the mix and recorded 24/7 for a few days and wowza, that really eats up the storage quickly. I switched the 8MP to motion while I am debating expanding my storage.

My recommendation, start with a single Dahua varifocal, to get your feet wet and then read & plan after spending a few weeks with your first cam. My system is all Dahua (OEM & Empire Tech) and Blue Iris purchased from the Ipcamtalk store, 100% happy.
 

mat200

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Lots of good points. The 2 outdoor wifi cameras are going to a detached garage so no easy way to get a cat5 cable out there. It does however have power near where it's going so that's at least not a problem. I'll have to take another look at powerline adapters. Last I heard they weren't reliable due to noise but maybe that's no longer the case.

I'll admit from the limited research I had done so far the issues with night capture was my main concern. But seemed all similar models at this price point had the same problem.

The cameras from reolink are verifocal up to f=2.7-13.5mm F=1.6-3.3, with IR cut so based on your link is probably good up to 30 ft. While this would work for several of my locations it doesnt seem to outweigh the other issues/cheap parts.




Yes, first POE set and not bad advice. I've had some previous experience with this Lorex wireless set that worked well enough for what we used it for at a temporary location but not what I would want to use at our home.

Thanks all for the responses. Looks like I have some more research to do.
FYI - Andy has a sale going on now .. do check it out here ..

 

EOAEvan

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Ok... So I've convinced myself to go the BlueIris route rather than an NVR. I have a 2nd PC powerful enough to run it and generally sits unused anyway. So what I'm thinking so far:

Blue Iris of course.
WD Purple Pro 10 TB

Getting both of these to see which best fits our expectations but distance is around 30 ft.
1x HDW5831R-ZE
1x T5442T-ZE

This one for the longer distance. Full length of the driveway is about 175 ft but I'm not overly concerned with anything over about 100 ft. I might want to back this one down to the 5442-Z4E but figured I'll start with here and decide.
HFW5241E-Z12E

So my new questions...
1) Any major issues with the above? Still planning to grow the system to around 8-10 cameras.
2) What's the best 16 port POE (POE+ (++??) (++++++?) switch that will get the job done? I assume this is a set it and forget it part of the install but if I'm missing something here that one switch over another is better please point it out. I've done some searches and noticed folks suggesting finding something enterprise grade used on ebay etc. but honestly not sure what to look for. I tend to prefer buying new for most things but am not stuck on it. Open to whatever is best.
3) If it matters for any of this, I do not want to rule out ever using wifi. 90% of the system will be wired but I'll likely end up with 1 wifi camera. Its mainly just to keep an eye on the dog behind a building so not really concerned with possible disconnects or lost footage etc. If it's not working then I guess I take my lazy arse out there to see lol.
4) Any Cat 5 cable recommended over the other? Is Cat 6 needed?

5) Who do we gotta pay off to switch the forums to a 'Dark Mode' view? Yes yes, there are 3rd party add-ons but who doesnt use dark mode these days? Truly painful on the eyes to read/search in a dark room :)
 
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cm.

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5442t-ze is a fantastic camera. I have standardised my setup to this camera where there is no/minimal ambient light (i.e everywhere except one location at the front of my house).

for poe switches, make sure you check the total wattage that the switch can support and what type of poe. Ensure total wattage will support number of cameras you want to run. Would recommend 1gbit minimum for speed (most should be this anyway). Your cameras wont need 1gbit but depending on quantity of cameras your uplink port may exceed 100mbps. If you dont need a managed switch then any random tp-link / d-link / netgear etc will be fine.

go with cat6 cable cat5e is getting rarer these days as prices are similar and cat6 is better…
 
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Ok... So I've convinced myself to go the BlueIris route rather than an NVR. I have a 2nd PC powerful enough to run it and generally sits unused anyway. So what I'm thinking so far:

Blue Iris of course.
WD Purple Pro 10 TB

Getting both of these to see which best fits our expectations but distance is around 30 ft.
1x HDW5831R-ZE
1x T5442T-ZE

This one for the longer distance. Full length of the driveway is about 175 ft but I'm not overly concerned with anything over about 100 ft. I might want to back this one down to the 5442-Z4E but figured I'll start with here and decide.
HFW5241E-Z12E

So my new questions...
1) Any major issues with the above? Still planning to grow the system to around 8-10 cameras.
2) What's the best 16 port POE (POE+ (++??) (++++++?) switch that will get the job done? I assume this is a set it and forget it part of the install but if I'm missing something here that one switch over another is better please point it out. I've done some searches and noticed folks suggesting finding something enterprise grade used on ebay etc. but honestly not sure what to look for. I tend to prefer buying new for most things but am not stuck on it. Open to whatever is best.
3) If it matters for any of this, I do not want to rule out ever using wifi. 90% of the system will be wired but I'll likely end up with 1 wifi camera. Its mainly just to keep an eye on the dog behind a building so not really concerned with possible disconnects or lost footage etc. If it's not working then I guess I take my lazy arse out there to see lol.
4) Any Cat 5 cable recommended over the other? Is Cat 6 needed?

5) Who do we gotta pay off to switch the forums to a 'Dark Mode' view? Yes yes, there are 3rd party add-ons but who doesnt use dark mode these days? Truly painful on the eyes to read/search in a dark room :)
Look on ebay for a good used business-class / Enterprise class switch. I personally like the HP Procurve line, but there are lots of options. You can get a 24 port that originally cost $800 to $1,200 new for under a hundred bucks and it will probably run for years. CLICK HERE for an example that is 10/100. You can search for gigabit versions too. Managed switches give you some cool tools to use....
1668980317248.png
 
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