Replacement fans for PoE switch...

Moonville

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I bought a Brocade ICX6430-24P and I would like quieter fans.

Does anyone have suggestions on what to buy? I don't want to buy replacement fans and end up with ones that are not any quieter than the existing fans.
 

The Automation Guy

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I bought a Brocade ICX6430-24P and I would like quieter fans.

Does anyone have suggestions on what to buy? I don't want to buy replacement fans and end up with ones that are not any quieter than the existing fans.
There is a lot of discussion in this thread on ServerTheHome about everything, including fan replacement. Brocade ICX Series (cheap & powerful 10gbE/40gbE switching).

Long story short, I know the Sunon Maglevs 40mm fans are recommended.
 

mat200

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I bought a Brocade ICX6430-24P and I would like quieter fans.

Does anyone have suggestions on what to buy? I don't want to buy replacement fans and end up with ones that are not any quieter than the existing fans.
FYI - one option is to use a larger fan(s) and a "funnel" to push the same volume of air into the box ..
 
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Moonville

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I also found that removing the grille behind the fan helps with the noise.
In the case of the Brocade ICX6430-24P, the "grille" are slots stamped directly in the unit's top cover. Did you cut those out?
 

Left Coast Geek

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big commercial switches like Brocades are intended for rack mount data center usage, where noise isn't an issue. A fan for a 1U chassis can only be like 25 or 30mm, and for a fan like that to move sufficient air, its going to be noisy
 

tigerwillow1

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In the case of the Brocade ICX6430-24P, the "grille" are slots stamped directly in the unit's top cover. Did you cut those out?
Yes and no. I have a cisco switch and the slots were on the back panel. Maybe not such a good idea to cut them out of the top. I made a bad assumption here (for the first time ever, of course).
 

mat200

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In the case of the Brocade ICX6430-24P, the "grille" are slots stamped directly in the unit's top cover. Did you cut those out?
Hi @Moonville

normally the issue is with slots which have a lot of air passing by them .. some slot designs ( typically circular holes + a fan attached ) can have turbulence due to the holes which create noise ...
 

Left Coast Geek

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one thing you can do with 1U kinda commercial equipment in a SOHO is take the cover off, and mount it on some riser side plates so its now effectively a 3U or 4U, and put a couple low speed large fans aiming down at the board, with cardboard baffles. some plastic screening on both ends to keep the spiders out. I've got a 2U HP Proliant dual xeon box here that would make a great home storage and virtualization server except its so loud I can hear it from 3 rooms down at night. I think it has like 12 or 16 2U sized fans down the middle, each stacked two deep, I should think about case modding it, it has 14 3.5" SAS/SATA bays, the 2 in back can be converted to 2.5" SATA. its also a room heater :-/
 

Teken

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Before you jump on the quiet fan train insure you fully understand what the maximum operating temperature is for the hardware on hand.

Read the specifications as to operating temperature for the hardware.

Many Enterprise 1U switches have jet plane like fans because they generate a lot of heat at idle and while under high load. Before the energy star / green programs were adopted by current hardware makers the vast majority of them did not use PWM fans which ramped up and down based on thermistor temperatures.

Generally speaking quieter fans move less air and thus will generate more heat! Several great ideas have already been offered by other forum members as such here are a few more to consider / use if a quieter fan is in use:

- Flow: If the switch does not have baffles to direct air flow. You can make your own baffles to insure cool air is drawn over the heat generating parts.

- Heat Transfer: Applying thermal paste, thermal pads, and heat sinks attached to key components on the motherboard and then to the frame will help dissipate more heat. Thermal pads must be applied under the internal top case to isolate any heat sinks to prevent a short and personal electrocution.

- Push / Pull: If the switch has only exhaust fans. Install another fan to push (suck) air into the internal casing. Some servers use tandem fans paired together to generate more CFM in sync. While others only spool up upon a primary fan failure. A similar tandem fan configuration can be applied if space is available and the fans are consuming the same (current / amps) as a single OEM fan.

- Mounting: Normally devices are separated by 1U spacing top & bottom. If this is the only appliance that generates heat mount it at the top of rack. If the switch is installed on a table insure it’s sitting at least 1U away from the surface.

Filtering: There are countless sound absorbing products that can be applied to walls, cabinets, and enclosures. Depending upon the amount, type, thickness, etc. It’s easy to reduce 3~6 dB.
using the same.

Regardless of all the above (possible) solutions. Document what the idle temperature is vs full load with accurate tools to obtain a baseline. Once known, make small changes and measure the same again to validate all is well.

Every switch will indicate it’s internal temperature from basic to advanced via CLI / Webpage. Compare this to your measured temperatures to validate the same.

Good luck . . .
 

Left Coast Geek

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rack mount equipment is supposed to suck fresh air in the front and blow hot air out the back. but I've seen a bunch of relatively low power 1U network stuff that sucks it in one side and blows it out the other.

I did my share of servers,



RAT NEST!


and a couple years later, I had to tear all that apart, and move it to a new datacenter at a different corporate site 'over the hill', then scrunch it into one rack. left some nice racks and 4 x 7KVA rack UPS's behind :(


this stack was my departments engineering/development lab which I built and ran.
 
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