POE switch issue?

[SaeedKY]

Hello. I have this simple offline Blue Iris setup:


The POE switch is this:

RJ45 Cat6 cables were used. Cameras are connected to ports 1-5 (the switch is in the basement and two cameras in the front and backyards are each about 100 ft and the other 3 cameras are each about 30-50 ft away from the switch). The cable connecting the switch to the PC goes to port 17 (or 18) in the switch and is about 100 ft in length.

The problem is that sometimes all camera inputs go out and show no signal. When I unplug and replug the POE switch again, it all restart working. The problem may reoccur anywhere from hours to months. I have realized that every time the signal goes out, the switch LED associated with the cable coming to the PC (slot 17 or 18) changes from green to yellow. It becomes green again upon restart. Also, if instead of restarting the switch, I just unplug and replug this cable, it solves the issue similarly. Lastly, when the signals go out, I know it is probably not due to Blue Iris b/c the cameras' own apps also lose signal.

So, can someone guide me in the right direction? As you may infer from my language, I am suspicious of the switch and the cable length (about 400-500 ft in total) but plz don't let this bias your judgment as I may be totally looking at the wrong place. Am I connecting everything to the appropriate ports? Could upgrading the cables or the switch help?

 

[fenderman]

Hello. I have this simple offline Blue Iris setup:
View attachment 150175

The POE switch is this:
View attachment 150176
RJ45 Cat6 cables were used. Cameras are connected to ports 1-5 (the switch is in the basement and two cameras in the front and backyards are each about 100 ft and the other 3 cameras are each about 30-50 ft away from the switch). The cable connecting the switch to the PC goes to port 17 (or 18) in the switch and is about 100 ft in length.

The problem is that sometimes all camera inputs go out and show no signal. When I unplug and replug the POE switch again, it all restart working. The problem may reoccur anywhere from hours to months. I have realized that every time the signal goes out, the switch LED associated with the cable coming to the PC (slot 17 or 18) changes from green to yellow. It becomes green again upon restart. Also, if instead of restarting the switch, I just unplug and replug this cable, it solves the issue similarly. Lastly, when the signals go out, I know it is probably not due to Blue Iris b/c the cameras' own apps also lose signal.

So, can someone guide me in the right direction? As you may infer from my language, I am suspicious of the switch and the cable length (about 400-500 ft in total) but plz don't let this bias your judgment as I may be totally looking at the wrong place. Am I connecting everything to the appropriate ports? Could upgrading the cables or the switch help?

First place to check is the cable itself. Is it quality name brand cable that is copper or cheap copper clad aluminum / CCA? Next step is the actual crimps - did you use the 568b standard?

 

[IAmATeaf]

When the cams go offline check if they are still contactable by pinging their ip address and then check if you can actually logon to the cam(s) via a browser to confirm that the cam is outputting video.

 

[samplenhold]

I am suspicious of the switch and the cable length (about 400-500 ft in total)

It is not the total round trip length that is limited. It is the distance between the cams and the POE switch or the distance between the POE switch and the PC. So nothing you have is more than the nominal 300ft, so you are OK.

Make sure that in BI you do not have 'Interpret monochrome video as a loss of signal' checked:

 

[SaeedKY]

First place to check is the cable itself. Is it quality name brand cable that is copper or cheap copper clad aluminum / CCA? Next step is the actual crimps - did you use the 568b standard?

Thank you very much, Fenderman. This is the cable I used. Admittedly, it does not look super high quality and was very inexpensive compared to the competition.
So, if I want to test a better cable, would I be right to say that I mostly need to upgrade the cable between the switch and the PC since that carries all the data?

Also, this is the crimps I used. Now that I am paying attention, while the product title has "cat 6" in it, down in the product descriptions it says "RJ45 RJ-45 CAT5 Modular Plug Network Connector" Could this be the issue?

 

[SaeedKY]

When the cams go offline check if they are still contactable by pinging their ip address and then check if you can actually logon to the cam(s) via a browser to confirm that the cam is outputting video.

Thank you. I have not tried pinging the cameras yet, but, no, when the signal is lost, it's also lost in the cameras' apps.

 

[SaeedKY]

First place to check is the cable itself. Is it quality name brand cable that is copper or cheap copper clad aluminum / CCA? Next step is the actual crimps - did you use the 568b standard?

Assuming that the culprit is actually low-quality wires, what could theoretically explain that the problem can go away for months by simply restarting the switch or replugging the cable? I don't know if this makes any sense or not but having to deal with this for several years now, I almost feel like that over time data overwhelms (clogs?) the cable, and when I restart the switch, it cleans up the cable. But then why this "clogging" may happen just after a few minutes at some times but after months at other times? Also, this should not be related to loose crimps b/c I can get this to work again by just restarting the switch without even touching the cables/crimps. Just trying to understand this

 

[fenderman]

Assuming that the culprit is actually low-quality wires, what could theoretically explain that the problem can go away for months by simply restarting the switch or replugging the cable? I don't know if this makes any sense or not but having to deal with this for several years now, I almost feel like that over time data overwhelms (clogs?) the cable, and when I restart the switch, it cleans up the cable. But then why this "clogging" may happen just after a few minutes at some times but after months at other times? Also, this should not be related to loose crimps b/c I can get this to work again by just restarting the switch without even touching the cables/crimps. Just trying to understand this

The description doesnt mention the type of core, however, on amazon the manufacture indicates CCA in some of their listings. I am willing to bet that this cheap cable is CCA. The connectors you used are also no name junk brand. The cable does not get "clogged" or overwhelmed. The cable and or connectors are likely on the edge of working and that is why it works most of the time. Environmental factors can cause a change whereby its stops working. We see this all the time. It could also be the switch but you need to fix the issue with the backbone of your setup which is the cabling. Yes the connectors need to be specific to the cable type and note there are specific connectors for stranded vs solid core (your cable is likely stranded as it was pre terminated). Some connectors work with both but I would not trust a no name brand with this. Also, this is EXTREAMLY important, you cannot simply match up the colors on both ends. Did you use the 568B standard when you crimped?

 

[SaeedKY]

Thank you. This is really eye-opening. Now that I Googled it, I believe that I used 568B. Yes, the wires are stranded. Here's a pic of my crimping:

These cables came with crimps to their ends and some of those crimps are used in the system. I never checked to see if they are 568B or 568A. I may have a mix of 568B and 568A if that would have even worked at all.

Hmmm not sure what you mean by matching up the colors on both ends. I have in multiple places extended or repaired the cables by simply soldering the cable ends while matching the colors instead of using crimps and couplers. Of course, I've used electric tape to separate the individual wires. Is this way of extending cables problematic?
One more question: is my intuition correct that the cable coming to the PC should be connected to either port 17 or 18 since they say "Uplink?" Or it does not matter what cable goes to what port?

 

[SaeedKY]

It is not the total round trip length that is limited. It is the distance between the cams and the POE switch or the distance between the POE switch and the PC. So nothing you have is more than the nominal 300ft, so you are OK.

Make sure that in BI you do not have 'Interpret monochrome video as a loss of signal' checked:

View attachment 150201

Thank you. But this does not justify how restarting the switch will fix the problem.

 

[fenderman]

Thank you. This is really eye-opening. Now that I Googled it, I believe that I used 568B. Yes, the wires are stranded. Here's a pic of my crimping:
View attachment 150207
These cables came with crimps to their ends and some of those crimps are used in the system. I never checked to see if they are 568B or 568A. I may have a mix of 568B and 568A if that would have even worked at all.

Hmmm not sure what you mean by matching up the colors on both ends. I have in multiple places extended or repaired the cables by simply soldering the cable ends while matching the colors instead of using crimps and couplers. Of course, I've used electric tape to separate the individual wires. Is this way of extending cables problematic?
One more question: is my intuition correct that the cable coming to the PC should be connected to either port 17 or 18 since they say "Uplink?" Or it does not matter what cable goes to what port?

I am now more convinced than ever that this is a cable problem. What i meant is that it must be use the 568 standard. Both ends must use the same standard. If you cut this cable and soldered it further impacts this already problematic cable - first by attenuating the signal second by allowing interference because they are twisted to protect against same. I would replace everything, the cable, the connectors and run a single run.

 

[SaeedKY]

I used the 568B standard consistently in all my crimpings. It was not like I was arranging the wire colors in the connectors randomly. The only crimps that may have used other standards are the ones that came attached to the cables. I did not check their standard since I was not even aware that there are different standards.

Will do. Thanks so much for your help. Really appreciate it.

 

[fenderman]

I used the 568B standard consistently in all my crimpings. It was not like I was arranging the wire colors in the connectors randomly. The only crimps that may have used other standards are the ones that came attached to the cables. I did not check their standard since I was not even aware that there are different standards.

Will do. Thanks so much for your help. Really appreciate it.

Remember to use solid cable not stranded.

 

[CCTVCam]

..and outdoor rated.

It looks very much like that's an indoor patch cable especially if it came pre-plugged. Using an indoor cable outside risks water penetration and that could cause oxidation or shorts.

I suggest getting a cable as suggested by Fenderman, a quality clamp down tool such as a Klein:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076MGPQZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and some quality end plugs (note these are Cat 5 NOT 6. If you want Cat 6 you need to find the Cat 6 Kelin ones):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076PT33QB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was the cable I bought for reference (also Cat 5). I believe another well known member on here also uses this cable:

External Cat5e UTP Solid Cable (Reel) | Cat5e Cable

Connectix Cabling System Enhanced Category 5 Solid External cable is the ideal solution if you have to run your cable from building to building. Suitable

www.cablemonkey.co.uk

It's also available in Cat 6. A 305m drum of Cat 5 is going to cost around $100. You'd have to check the price on Cat 6 if that's what you really want. I doubt you'll exceed Cat 5 anytime soon though.

Don't go chepaer without checking the qualities mention by others above and that it's outdoor rated.

As for the tool, you'll find cheap tools often don't crimp properly or break the plugs doing so. Sometimes it's worth paying that bit more and here is one of those times. At least with a CCTV system, you know you'll be needing it in the future, so the extra paid is not a waste.

 

[looney2ns]

I recommend you get your cable and Rj45's and tools from www.truecable.com

 

[Flintstone61]

Yeah true cable can get you going in the right direction like looney says.
I also bought true cable my first go around
and then my next box was this

Amazon.com

this stuff works good as well. But use Cat5 terminations.
Wire diameter of cat6 can be problematic in Cat5 terminations.

 

[Flintstone61]

Your shits all fucked up. start over.

 

[fenderman]

..and outdoor rated.

It looks very much like that's an indoor patch cable especially if it came pre-plugged. Using an indoor cable outside risks water penetration and that could cause oxidation or shorts.

I suggest getting a cable as suggested by Fenderman, a quality clamp down tool such as a Klein:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076MGPQZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and some quality end plugs (note these are Cat 5 NOT 6. If you want Cat 6 you need to find the Cat 6 Kelin ones):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076PT33QB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was the cable I bought for reference (also Cat 5). I believe another well known member on here also uses this cable:

External Cat5e UTP Solid Cable (Reel) | Cat5e Cable

Connectix Cabling System Enhanced Category 5 Solid External cable is the ideal solution if you have to run your cable from building to building. Suitable

www.cablemonkey.co.uk

It's also available in Cat 6. A 305m drum of Cat 5 is going to cost around $100. You'd have to check the price on Cat 6 if that's what you really want. I doubt you'll exceed Cat 5 anytime soon though.

Don't go chepaer without checking the qualities mention by others above and that it's outdoor rated.

As for the tool, you'll find cheap tools often don't crimp properly or break the plugs doing so. Sometimes it's worth paying that bit more and here is one of those times. At least with a CCTV system, you know you'll be needing it in the future, so the extra paid is not a waste.

I don't think these runs are outside I think they're indoors... Could be wrong though.

 

[IAmATeaf]

Your shits all fucked up. start over.

I was going to comment but I think the above just about sums it all up.

The cable that the OP linked to mentions solid but then the OP stated stranded so no way that I’d trust the cable.

Work out how much cable you’ll need, if there are any external runs just buy external graded cable, will be fine for indoor runs as well. Decide if you really need cat6 and above, me personally in my house I’ve used cat5e throughout, good for 1Gb so good enough for me. Make sure you get solid copper and not CCA cable.

Run out a new cable and terminate both ends, joints are a no no and then check with a single cam to see if it still goes offline. This will allow you to then confirm if the switch might also be adding to the issue ?