Need a outside camera that will not fail.

[MikeLieberman]

I am not a noobie to CCTV. My NVR supporting up to 32 cameras currently supports 22 IP cameras. Some wired, some WiFi. Most are NETIP (H.265) and a few are only ONVIF. It's a combination of bullet, fisheye, and ptz units. I have one location that is giving me massive problems. It is overlooking my front gate.

Initially, I had no electric service there and so installed a solar solution, but could only get 20 hours each day before the batteries gave out. So, I eventually ran electric service to the location. Here is what is looks like.


Over the last four years, three "outside" weather resistant cameras have failed. Each runs well for a while -- months -- and then loses connection to the WiFi AP. The access point is about twenty unobstructed meters away from the camera location. My hand was a few inches from the AP as I took this photo from my office window,

In each case of the three, to attempt to fix it, 75-year-old me is getting on an extension ladder, resetting to factory settings and reconnecting to the camera to the AP. It works a couple of times but eventually each camera just dies completely. The current one died again last night after another of our typical heavy downpours; my location being no more than five kilometers from Sarangani Bay in the Philippines.

The camera is over looking a five meter steel gate, a smaller steel "manhole" door beyond it and a bit of the road at the entrance. Is there a camera that won't fail?

 

[TonyR]

Regarding the wireless connectivity issues: If you are not using a pair of purpose-built radios such as Ubiquiti, TP-LINK, MicroTik, etc. to provide a Layer 2 Transparent Wireless Bridge solution (not camera Wi-Fi to household AP) then you will likely never have a dependable wireless solution. At the bottom is an image of a schema that I have deployed many times over the past 10 years with excellent results.

I'd go with with either a pair of Ubiquiti Nanostation 5AC Locos or a pair of TP-LINK CPE-510's.

Unlike a link between Wi-Fi devices, extenders, repeaters, etc. the radios I linked both use proprietary protocol, channel widths and more to provide fast, reliable connections between the 2 devices, creating a wireless layer 2 transparent bridge much like a straight Ethernet cable as far as data is concerned.

You configure them with unique, static IP's in the same subnet as your LAN (but outside of your router's DHCP pool). The configuration instructions found in the Ubiquiti link covers the terminology and methods for both the older "M" devices (as in my schematic below) and for the newer "AC" devices as in my recommendation.

EDIT 6/6 0524 CT: Because you have been using your current wireless setup for several years, the above recommendation assumes you would have good LOS (Line Of Sight) between the 2 radios.

Regarding weather-related issues: for long term dependability I would try if at all possible to not place any camera, IP or analog, wired or wireless, in direct exposure to the elements. Under an eave, soffit or pupose-fabricated weather shield above the camera would go a long way to increasing reliability. That and, of course, protecting the wired pigtail connection to the camera with a junction box and connection weatherproofing which includes dielectric grease on the male-to-female RJ45 connection.

 

[MikeLieberman]

Regarding the wireless connectivity issues: If you are not using a pair of purpose-built radios such as Ubiquiti, TP-LINK, MicroTik, etc. to provide a Layer 2 Transparent Wireless Bridge solution (not camera Wi-Fi to household AP) then you will likely never have a dependable wireless solution. At the bottom is an image of a schema that I have deployed many times over the past 10 years with excellent results.

I'd go with with either a pair of Ubiquiti Nanostation 5AC Locos or a pair of TP-LINK CPE-510's.

Unlike a link between Wi-Fi devices, extenders, repeaters, etc. the radios I linked both use proprietary protocol, channel widths and more to provide fast, reliable connections between the 2 devices, creating a wireless layer 2 transparent bridge much like a straight Ethernet cable as far as data is concerned.

You configure them with unique, static IP's in the same subnet as your LAN (but outside of your router's DHCP pool). The configuration instructions found in the Ubiquiti link covers the terminology and methods for both the older "M" devices (as in my schematic below) and for the newer "AC" devices as in my recommendation.

Regarding weather-related issues: for long term dependability I would try if at all possible to not place any camera, IP or analog, wired or wireless, in direct exposure to the elements. Under an eave, soffit or pupose-fabricated weather shield above the camera would go a long way to increasing reliability. That and, of course, protecting the wired pigtail connection to the camera with a junction box and connection weatherproofing which includes dielectric grease on the male-to-female RJ45 connection.

View attachment 222230

I asked for recommendation on true weather resistant CCTV cameras. Each of the three I installed were advertised as IP67 but they are clearly not.

With all due difference, your response is pure bull-roar and totally non-responsive.

The problem I am experiencing is related to cameras that fail due to weather. I have many access points connected to this managed network of 58 hosts. This is large facility built with concrete and rebar which attenuate signals. I have forty-five years in LAN and WAN management. I damned well know how to manage site. In this case the AP talking to the camera is a TP-Link CPE210 v3.20. But the radio is not the problem.

 

[TonyR]

I asked for recommendation on true weather resistant CCTV cameras. Each of the three I installed were advertised as IP67 but they are clearly not.

With all due difference, your response is pure bull-roar and totally non-responsive.

I was trying to help you so such rudeness is not merited. I did not imply you were inept in any way.

Since you have shown the forum you're an asshole right off the bat, let's see how many other helpful replies you get.

And before I forget, keyboard warrior....KISS MY ASS!

 

[MikeLieberman]

I was trying to help you so such rudeness is not merited. I did not imply you were inept in any way.

Since you have shown the forum you're an asshole right off the bat, let's see how many other helpful replies you get.

And before I forget, keyboard warrior....KISS MY ASS!

View attachment 222231

Getting caught with irrelevant nonsense is not helpful. It is a waste of everyone's time. I had a straight forward question, you chose to strut out pure non-relevant crap. No need to kiss your ass, as you have already bent over and done it to yourself. If you didn't know of a high quality IP67 camera.. you know what the correct response was? ... to sit on your hands and not waste the bandwidth.

 

[alastairstevenson]

You described the problem as :

Each runs well for a while -- months -- and then loses connection to the WiFi AP.

Then you say :

I damned well know how to manage site. In this case the AP talking to the camera is a TP-Link CPE210 v3.20. But the radio is not the problem

It's well known - as highlighted by @TonyR - that WiFi connectivity for CCTV cameras can be inconsistent and troublesome.
It was a helpful post.

Suggestion :
To confirm it's not the WiFi - it might be interesting to take down one of the cameras and carry out some testing.
If the problem is indeed weather-related, check out the joints in the cable for corrosion from inadequate weatherproofing / sealing, and open up a camera to check for moisture ingression.

 

[biggen]

Why would you run power and not take the time to run fiber or cat5e/6 at the same time?

Anyway, we really need the distances you need covered from the camera to the target. If it’s something under 30 feet, then the 54IR is pretty much the gold standard of excellent night time capability and fully waterproof. If you want a bullet, then the Z4E is also excellent. Keep in mind, these are not wifi cameras. You won't find anyone in here serious about running wifi cameras. Most are junk. If you need wifi because you didn't run cable, then you need to take @TonyR advice and install PTP links and stop buying junk wifi cameras. I have had an Axis camera up on a billboard running Ubiquity PTP Nano links for over 7 years now. Distance is several hundred feet from billboard to the building it's beaming the signal to. The receiving antenna is mounted in an attic so they don't even had LOS. It's absolutely bullet proof and has survived many hurricanes here in Florida.

 

[JPmedia]

Every camera will fail at some point. Some last 10+ years some only a few years. I've found that Dahua based cameras tend to last 6 or more years in my location and I'm in one of the worst areas for weather. Installation is one of the keys to a long-lasting camera. In humid areas connections really need to be protected well, especially if you are near water. Saltwater areas require attention to every possible entry point as it is a highly corrosive environment.

Unless I'm missing it, I don't see any mention of the camera(s) that are or were being used in this location. Can you provide these details?

 

[bigredfish]

I'll try to give you my best advice......


Fuck Off

 

[bp2008]

I don't understand the problem. @TonyR told you how to properly handle weatherproofing the connectors, and you insult him because he also suggested a more reliable wifi solution?

 

[JPmedia]

Is there a camera that won't fail?

Simple answer NO. That's like asking if there is a living creature that won't die.

I smell a troll. You gave no information on the current installation. You mention electric was finally run to the cam location, but no ethernet cables were run at the time - poor planning.

The photo you attached is a mess of an install with open connectors and no protection.

Even with all this, members try to help you with little to no info on the install, and you berate them because you either didn't get an answer you wanted, or you have nothing better to do then stir the pot to pass the time.

It's better to be thought of being an asshole, then to type your tirade of 5-year-old nonsense tantrums and remove all doubt.

Take it somewhere else junior