Mounting T54IR-ZE-S3 to soffit

H. Swanson

H. Swanson

Pulling my weight
Nov 3, 2023
169
127
Tennessee
I have five of these cameras I want to be soffit-mounted because then I don't have to drill into the brick wall, this installation makes the camera more inconspicuous, and it seems like it'll protect better from the elements. My plan is to try this method using aluminum sheeting so I don't have to drill as many holes (only a hole for the CAT cable) and I could easily slide the location if needed:


Anyone tried this installation method? Any feedback or issues?

Being under a soffit, my biggest concern is IR reflection. So, I plan on using the PFA130-E junction boxes to not only protect the cam and cables better, but to increase the distance between lens and the soffit. Additionally, I was going to install the cam centered on the soffit but now I'm going to try and mount the cam closer to the edge of the soffit to help avoid IR reflection. Anything else I'm missing?
 
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^^^ you'been reading...that's good!

Yes, IR bounce-back can be an issue, especially when a cam is mounted under a soffit and the right box can help mitigate that in many instances. :cool:
 
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I have done that for several of my cameras and it is awesome.

Instead of completely cutting a hole in the soffit for the cable, I make the shape a "box" instead of a circle and cut on 3 sides and then bend the soffit upwards on the uncut side. Then if you decide to move the camera later, you simply bend it back in place and not have a hole in the soffit. From the ground you won't even know a hole was there.

I haven't used a junction box with any of mine and do not have IR bounce, but each location is different. If you have a deep soffit or are angling the camera at an angle, you may get some bounce. I have my camera little forward such that it is still protected from the soffit and gutter some and not extending past, but not completely against the house either.
 
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wittaj said:
Instead of completely cutting a hole in the soffit for the cable, I make the shape a "box" instead of a circle and cut on 3 sides and then bend the soffit upwards on the uncut side. Then if you decide to move the camera later, you simply bend it back in place and not have a hole in the soffit. From the ground you won't even know a hole was there.
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Very interesting idea. If you don't drill, do you use a box cutter to do what you're describing?
 
Yep I just use a box cutter and apply a little force and it just slices right thru the soffit, so my "box" is about the size of the blade so that I can shove the pigtail and all thru, but as I have moved cams around, it is nice to not have that gaping hole. Simply bend it back down (or up depending on which way you push it) and nobody will see it.

I also paint the aluminum stock and camera the same color as the soffit.

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Got it. I assumed they were aluminum.

By the way, why not use flat, outdoor-rated ethernet cable and then run it around the soffit instead of cutting a hole?

I wonder if that would avoid holes altogether without lifting the soffit. Since there's a metal plate lifting the soffit anyway, the flat cable could slide into the slight gap it creates and into the back of the junction box.
 
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Flat cable is not recommended as the wire is smaller (30 AWG compared to 24 or 22 AWG) and they are much more prone to interference, and as such are poor for POE applications and have been shown to not being able to transfer the proper power and dropped packets. Notice it doesn't say POE devices on the description (even though that always isn't proof it would work either).

Doesn't mean it won't work and plenty of people have done it and are using it, but you may experience dropped signals and or heat up the wires.
 
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Also can't re-terminate it, stranded vs solid, likely not all copper... Not a good choice.
 
H. Swanson said:
How about this?

It's 30 AWG and copper.
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That shows where just because it says POE doesn't mean it would actually be a good choice.

The higher the number, the smaller the wiring. 30 is pretty small to want to rely on for sending power and data thru, especially at distance.

I mean you can try it, but when you come here in 6 months with your camera having no signal drop-outs, the first question people ask is about the wiring.
 
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wittaj said:
That shows where just because it says POE doesn't mean it would actually be a good choice.

The higher the number, the smaller the wiring. 30 is pretty small to want to rely on for sending power and data thru, especially at distance.

I mean you can try it, but when you come here in 6 months with your camera having no signal drop-outs, the first question people ask is about the wiring.
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Understood. I'll stick with the heavy duty stuffs. Last thing I'll want to do is re-run new cables throughout my house.
 
You need to pass power over these cables so size matters as far as voltage drop. And don't trust any of the specs for any of those flat "Cat 8" cables. None are.

Unless you have very easy runs, you're most likely going to need to terminate the cable yourself. Get a roll of good quality cable and use that.
 
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Everything is a risk/reward type venture. There are plenty of people that have used flat CCA wiring or non-outdoor rated CCA wiring outside along their house and never had a problem. And then there are some that the UV eroded away the sheathing in two years.

Some don't use dielectric grease and have never had a problem, while others have a corrosion issue in 6 months.

Most of the all-in-one box kits people buy from Costco or Home Depot are CCA wiring and some even come with flat wiring. I used them on those systems before I knew any better and before I found this site. I got lucky and didn't have a problem with it (the cameras and NVRs on the other hand LOL), but since you are new and found this site before installing, it is best to go with the true, trusted, and tested methods to ensure you aren't hanging off your house in December trying to get the camera to work!
 
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Good advice. What’s dielectric grease and where do you use it? I’m planning on using junction boxes or mounts for every camera to better protect the outside connections.

By the way, I’m having a professional low voltage guy do the runs and helping my install the cameras. I just want to have as many of my installation decisions made so we’re aligned when he gets here.
 
Dielectric grease is used on the connection points between the cable and the camera.

Even with junction boxes, there is temperature change condensation that happens, so even if the cables are never exposed to water, without the dielectric grease it can still get corrosion.

The best practice is dielectric grease, followed by the "waterproof" connectors that cameras come with (aren't really waterproof), followed by self-fusing tape. Again, not everybody does all the steps, but dielectric grease at a minimum.

Yeah, if you are having a low tech voltage guy run the wires, then don't skimp on the wiring.
 
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