Lightning strikes
- Thread starter Smilingreen
- Start date
+1^^.
I've had good results with TP-LINK switches, Wi-Fi cards for PC's, media converters, wireless bridges, routers and more.
I've had good results with TP-LINK switches, Wi-Fi cards for PC's, media converters, wireless bridges, routers and more.
Smilingreen
Known around here
I like the TP Link equipment. Untill this year, I have had zero issues out if any of their switches I own. June and July has been rough on them....
Yeah, hard to find fault with any mfg. when lightning is involved, IMO.
In one particular drawing showing multiple ground rods, I do not see the ground rods
bonded to each other. The Lightning phenomena is not a point source problem!
Sure the main strike with 100Ks of Volts and thousands of Amps is easily seen and heard,
it's the leaders that will consume countless unprotected electronic components.
Note at about 2:13 the leaders springing from a point that will not connect to the main
bolt.
The voltage typically need to bridge a gap is about 25K to 30 K volts per cm or less depending on temp, humidity etc.!
Note the leader from the TV antenna. How many thousands of volts traveled from the TV ground
via the antenna to the sky? (The typical automotive ignition system will put out about 60,000 volts and
jump about 1/4 inch or so.)
With different ground rods, there will be ground source potential differences. Now in the drawing
one has created different paths to ground at different potential differences! Hence the importance
of bonding the ground system to the ground system.
bonded to each other. The Lightning phenomena is not a point source problem!
Sure the main strike with 100Ks of Volts and thousands of Amps is easily seen and heard,
it's the leaders that will consume countless unprotected electronic components.
Note at about 2:13 the leaders springing from a point that will not connect to the main
bolt.
The voltage typically need to bridge a gap is about 25K to 30 K volts per cm or less depending on temp, humidity etc.!
Note the leader from the TV antenna. How many thousands of volts traveled from the TV ground
via the antenna to the sky? (The typical automotive ignition system will put out about 60,000 volts and
jump about 1/4 inch or so.)
With different ground rods, there will be ground source potential differences. Now in the drawing
one has created different paths to ground at different potential differences! Hence the importance
of bonding the ground system to the ground system.
Smilingreen
Known around here
Final talley of equipment lost in the July electrical storm:
1- TP Link TL-SG2218P POE+ switch
1- Hikvision DS-2DE4A425IW-DE PTZ camera
1- USB-C to Ethernet adapter
1- USB-C to HDMI adapter
1- POE++ injector
Kind a sucks.....
1- TP Link TL-SG2218P POE+ switch
1- Hikvision DS-2DE4A425IW-DE PTZ camera
1- USB-C to Ethernet adapter
1- USB-C to HDMI adapter
1- POE++ injector
Kind a sucks.....
Smilingreen
Known around here
Here are my new lightning insurance policies......cheaper than the deductible on my home owners insurance policy........hopefully, I will never have to report back that they didn't work......
Some "light " reading about the solar storm of 1940. Of particular interest of geopotential voltages and differences.
One of the reasons for ground potential differences with only moderate voltages. Section 3 spell out
some of the grounding system cons.
EDIT I forgot the page
One of the reasons for ground potential differences with only moderate voltages. Section 3 spell out
some of the grounding system cons.
EDIT I forgot the page
Last edited:
tigerwillow1
Known around here
I've gone back and forth a lot noodling this. The price I found on the net for the LPXT-WP-GB-POE+60V would be 68.63 each, so if I put them on each of 16 cameras it would cost almost $1,100. I'm certainly willing to risk my $85 (used) POE switch, and could lose 6 of the fixed-focal 5442s and still be ahead by taking the risk. Plus, in a few years, the 5442s might anyway be sitting on the heap along with the 5231s they replaced. A gamble either way. If I had one of the higher-end PTZs, I think I'd invest in trying to protect it specifically.
A few years ago, a close lightning strike wiped out most of the A/V equipment at our church. The power supply section of the power amp was burned to a crisp.
CCTVCam
Known around here
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2017
- Messages
- 2,678
- Reaction score
- 3,514
I'm not convinced shielded cable would make a difference tbh. If you feel better using it then do, but you're basically talking about a piece of aluminium foil, thinner than what you wrap a turkey in trying to stop a magnetic ield than induce thousands of volts in a cable. Lightening arrestors seem a better bet to me. I always invest in a lightening shielded power strip to power my pc's and I always unplug the rj45's at the slightest sound of thunder.
I think the shield is for RF interference mainly...
pyspilf
Getting the hang of it
I just came across this post as I was looking for something else. I live in a mountain area and get lots of thunderstorms... I have three outdoor spots where a sealed junction box houses a POE switch, and the lightning was frying ports all the time, used to buy a switch every few months. The last two I installed are from Tenda (TEG1105P-4-63W 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch with 4-Port PoE) which states in the specs it they have 6KV Port Lightning Protection... so far they're holding up despite the last three weeks with loads of lightning... I've tried so many kinds and brands, I don't know if it's just luck at this point.
Unrelated but had the Electric Company come out yesterday to check their Pole Transformer to the Meter. We were having lights dim when the A/C compressor started or when the Electric Dryer started. Was informed by our A/C guy after he put a Soft Start on our A/C unit that we may have a grounding issue and to call the Electric Company. Well sure enough they found a bad ground and now we are back in business.
Sybertiger
Known around here
Was waiting for supplies of the Siemens FS-140 to come down as after the pandemic I saw prices $300 - $400. They appear readily available now selling for $229 on Amazon. I picked one up last week on Amazon for $174...it may have been a one day sale. Just completed installation.
Where is your breaker panel, inside garage/house?
That is nice you have a service panel. I read it is best to put the surge protector/detector at the top of the panel or shortest distance.
Sybertiger
Known around here
In Florida it's common to have a main panel outside next to the meter and usually you'll see a main breaker (200A in my case) plus a AC condenser service breaker. Then you'll have a sub-panel in the garage typically that has all the individual breakers. I spoke with one of the Siemens engineers for about 30 mins the other day. He said the biggest problem they see are incorrect installations. The wires should be as short as possible but at the same time no quick bends in the wire. He recommended that the FS-140 be mounted directly across from a 20A double-pole breaker so that is why I have it mounted as such. And you can see I have slow bends in the N and GRD wires. We laughed about the YouTube video made by a so called expert electrician about how to install one. In that video there was no attempt to address the length of wire and the bends. The reason I had spoken to an engineer was regarding the apparent lack of a obvious "bond strap" between N and GRD but he agreed with me that the N and GRD of the FS-140 should tie directly into the N bus as the bond was made there by the original electrician.
In fact, if you look at the bottom of the main panel you'll see a small box underneath. It's a lower grade Square-D surge suppressor that was installed at the same time the original main panel was mounted and wired. The engineer suggested I just leave it there but commented that the electrician who installed it did a poor job because you can see the black wires are spooled up a little before tying into the A and C phase cables. I should probably just redo it and move those wires to the same 20A breaker that the FS-140 is tied to. I had tried to shorten them but those Allen wrench lugs would not turn and I didn't want to force them to create a new problem.
In fact, if you look at the bottom of the main panel you'll see a small box underneath. It's a lower grade Square-D surge suppressor that was installed at the same time the original main panel was mounted and wired. The engineer suggested I just leave it there but commented that the electrician who installed it did a poor job because you can see the black wires are spooled up a little before tying into the A and C phase cables. I should probably just redo it and move those wires to the same 20A breaker that the FS-140 is tied to. I had tried to shorten them but those Allen wrench lugs would not turn and I didn't want to force them to create a new problem.
Last edited:
Here's the NEUT (white) to GND (bare/green) bond; it appears they are tied to the same buss which is per NEC and the only place they are to be tied together.
* 120/240VAC dryers can no longer be installed with a 3 bladed plug with white and green tied together on the dryer; they must have a 4 bladed plug (2 hots, neutral and ground).
EDIT: The * info above for 4 bladed dryer plug is for new installs and was placed into effect by the NEC in 1996.
tangent
IPCT Contributor
- Joined
- May 12, 2016
- Messages
- 4,434
- Reaction score
- 3,680
And just to be clear, this means you don't bond gnd and neutral in sub panels and run 4 wires to the subpanels.