Is there a step-by-step tutorial for setting up a new camera?

final

Young grasshopper
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Hi,

waiting for my first camera (IPC-T5442TM-AS 2.8mm) to arrive from Andy.
He already pointed me towards the dahuawiki site.

But I have some open questions, because I feel like I need some guidance with my first steps.
Is there a typical "standard" way for an initial setup of a new camera? What are the steps?
Do I need the Dahua Config tool?
What should I do first?
What setting in which order?
What setting for my use case?
What to avoid?
... you get the idea. :)

I've read that sticking with the defaults is not the best idea - so there needs to be some tweaking done in any case I assume.

So, if there is some kind of tutorial, please be so kind and point me there.

Thanks!
 

wittaj

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Not really a manual as we are not the target client for these types of cameras - they target and market the "professionals" that should know what they are doing LOL. But we are fortunate to get our hands on these and use a site like this to learn. Plus every location is different, so what works in my setting location may not make sense for you.

No you do not need the Dahua config tool - I have never used it. Simply log into the camera GUI and do all your changes there.

Take it off auto settings at night unless you like seeing Casper and blurring and hotspots. Auto settings in most situations for shutter will produce a great picture, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting.

In my opinion, shutter and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more and gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you are getting from the infrared.

Now what you will notice that happens immediately is your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur.

You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent), but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images.

Try to avoid the backlight settings until after you have exhausted every other attempt with the other settings.

Also, do not use the camera to max capacity. Just because it is capable of 30FPS doesn't mean you should as you will max out the CPU. 15FPS for surveillance cameras are fine. Movies are shot in 24 FPS for the big screen, so 15FPS for a phone or tablet or monitor at home is fine. Also match Iframe to FPS.

Do not be afraid to have to run B/W at night - unless you have a LOT of light, it is better to be B/W and get clean images than color and a blur. If it is an overview camera to get color that is different as that is not used for ID purposes of faces or vehicles other than color.

How do you plan to watch and store video - Camera GUI and SD Card, Blue Iris, NVR, etc. as that can impact whether you use H264 or H265 and smart codec.
 
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final

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Hey, thanks for the quick reply!

Ok, nice to know I do not need to install extra SW on my laptop.

You say:
Simply log into the camera GUI and do all your changes there.
Should I do other things first before going into the settings? Like, a permanent IP, turn off Firmware Auto Update, install newest firmware, change any passwords? You know, like setting up a new PC? If yes, in a particular order?
 

wittaj

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Hey, thanks for the quick reply!

Ok, nice to know I do not need to install extra SW on my laptop.

You say:


Should I do other things first before going into the settings? Like, a permanent IP, turn off Firmware Auto Update, install newest firmware, change any passwords? You know, like setting up a new PC? If yes, in a particular order?
Yes - good point! Depending on how you plan to get into the camera (we here are big fans of not allowing them to access the internet), you may need to set your computer to the IP address range of the camera temporarily to get into it - that is how we get around using the Config tool

Without being connected to Internet when you first fire up the camera it will ask for user/PW so you create it then. Go in and turn off P2P, UPnP, Auto Update (Andy usually ships these with latest firmware) and do the permanent IP last because you will lose connection as soon as you hit save.

Then go back to the IP address range the camera will be on and plug the camera into the same switch that would have that IP address range and log back into the camera and start adjusting the settings.
 

final

Young grasshopper
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we here are big fans of not allowing them to access the internet
me too!

So, to clarify: I connect the cam and my laptop to the POE switch which is in xy IP range. But how do I find the current IP adress of the camera. Windows shell and "ipconf /all"?
 

wittaj

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We have had some here purchase multiple cameras at once and plug in all at once and wonder why they have trouble LOL. Eight cameras all with a fixed IP of 192.168. 1.108 is not a good thing LOL.
 

Mike A.

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Yes, it's a static IP.

Temporarily change the IP address of your laptop to a static address in the same range. Access the cam. Change cam IP as needed. Switch laptop back to usual IP address. Access cam on your usual network using the assigned IP.

Or you can use the config tool which will find cams on different local subnets and let you change the address.

I should have said above that the cam can use DHCP to grab a dynamic IP assignment but better to use static IPs with cameras. In addition to always knowing where the cam(s) is/are generally and being able to restrict access based on IP/MAC, etc., you'll need to do that if you use something like BI or other VMS which will need a consistent address for the cam.
 
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Flintstone61

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surf to 192.168.1.108
create admin pass
surf to network
change IP to work with your network ip address's
click save
now you cannot get back in until you
enter the Ip you created and the admin Pass
 

Flintstone61

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Keep . .1.108 clear for future cameras. not sure what the Hik default IP is...but if you find out, keep that IP clear as well... Some cameras can have a menu selection for both DHCP or Static
 

final

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I may be a bit tired, but
  • my main LAN is not 192.168.1 but 192.168.x - this would not be working, right?
  • and I do not want the cam in my normal LAN (access to internet), right?
Well, maybe I will then just give the LAN2 the 192.168.1 and plug the cam into that.
Ok, that should work somehow...
 

sebastiantombs

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You can block the camera from internet access at your router. You can give the camera a bogus default gateway and bogus DNS addresses.
 

final

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Hey,

just a quick update.
I used the 2nd LAN port on my NAS to create a different network just for the cam and the POE switch.
 
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