Fiber to detached workshop options

B

BTMotorsports

Getting the hang of it
Aug 26, 2018
22
29
US
I have a 3/4" conduit ran between the house and workshop for comms (just under 100 ft from the network closet to the point of entry into the shop. What fiber should I run (I don't currently own any fiber compatible switches but plan to do some purchases in the next few months as the shop gets wired) from the closet to the termination point in the shop? I would like to pull once and have multiple fiber connections with that pull. Naturally, I'll leave a pull line in case of future needs.

Second question: The shop will have its own dedicated camera server and network. Currently I run a Ubiquiti Edgerouter POE-5 set up per guykuo's thread: Ubiquity EdgeRouter X - Configuring to Isolate Surveillance Networks with a dedicated POE switch for the cameras and BlueIris dedicated server. How do I set up a second network in the shop that is isolated from the main LAN like my current configuration if I have a single fiber run between buildings or do I need multiple fiber runs and one on the isolated cam network? Do i run a second router and turn off DHCP or are there other options?
 
I have several buildings on my property which I run fiber between the buildings. My choice is TP-link Omada. (Unifi is very good also) Each building of mine has a tl-sg2210mp switch as an entry point. (Fiber goes directly in the switch) I buy pre-terminated fibers and SFP modules from FS.com. Go for the "military spec fiber". I run single mode fibers but for your application you could just as well run multimode. Make sure to select the correct SFP modules according to your fiber type. You don't have to run mutliple fibers, you segregate the different Networks by VLANs and ACL rules and specify ports on your switches to which VLAN they will belong. It is however quite a learning curve if you are not into networking.
 
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lanshack or fs.com for pre-terminated fiber. fs.com for transceivers

Running single mode myself. Cost difference is negligible these days and should be future proof. Was actually cheaper to run single mode fiber the last time i did it but transceivers are a little more expensive (not much, couple bucks).

3/4 is tight....stagger your connectors and use a pulling eye/web mesh thingy (they offer the cable made with this). The lanshack one is 3/4" though....fs doesnt use the same setup so its a little different. You could also make your own.

Im getting ready to see if i can squeeze a mtp connector thru a short 3/4 run .... not sure if i can make though, may need to re-trench. LC is the smallest connector but also not the "sturdiest" either. Sc is a little more robust but also bigger. If you're trying not to re-trench go with LC. Id tell you to run more than one for backup or in case one breaks but you'll need to make sure staggered properly. You need 2 strands (rx / tx) or run bidi single mode on one strand (more expensive).

They also make "indoor/outdoor" for use in conduit which is not as stiff as the armored stuff.

You can do as f1restarter said, vlans and acl's to segregate one line (2 strands of fiber) into different subnets. I dont know the edge router but yes you need dhcp server on the other vlan's unless you want to static address them by hand. Does Unifi have acl's? I dont work with their routers but do use their switches ap's often. I usually use pfsense/opensense for something like describe. Not that there is anything wrong with it or unifi....just not as familiar with it. I would assume it should handle it if it uses the same network controller app as the switches/ap's do.
 
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fs.com is a good choice for pre-terminated fiber cables. The most basic cable is very cheap: Amazon.com also has good deals and may be cheaper or more expensive depending on what exactly you're looking for. Example:
Possibly of interest to you is the Fiber Optic Networking Primer that I wrote in IpCamTalk's wiki, if you aren't sure about fiber optic networking basics yet.

Most optical transceivers require a Duplex LC connection, meaning 2 fibers are used for one network link. However if you use single-mode fiber cable (instead of multi-mode), then it is fairly easy to find transceivers that only require one single-mode fiber (the transceivers will transmit and receive on the same fiber using a different wavelength of light). Prices are usually very similar between multi-mode and single-mode gear.
 
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Fiber can be confusing just because there are so many different options and termination styles. Working with fiber is not complicated at all, at least not if you use pre-terminated runs. Just read/research carefully and make sure the components you purchase are compatible with the termination style and fiber type you are using. It's easy to buy the wrong style connector if you aren't paying very close attention and triple checking everything before you buy. I haven't made a mistake yet, but have come very close and only by triple checking everything (usually with a long break between selecting my components and pulling the trigger to ensure I was looking at everything with "fresh eyes") did I find my error.

I have used multimode fiber with LC style terminations and they seem to work well. I haven't tried any others because once I picked a style I wanted to get all the same type.

I've also had good luck getting transceivers cheap off EBay. Again, you just have to be very careful in your selection to make sure the transceiver is designed to work with your choice of fiber type and connector style. I usually find and pull the manufacturer's data sheets from the internet using the transceiver's model number just to make I know what I am getting as each model number will represent another fiber/connector combination. So while you might be buying a XYZ brand SFP+ transceiver, they likely have 30 different model numbers all representing different fiber/connector combinations. Checking the manufacture's data sheets lets me verify the model number being sold is correct for my desired fiber and connector combination. It also helps that the few fiber devices I have been using seem to be transceiver brand agnostic. Many devices are not and are basically hardcoded to only work with a certain brand of transceiver. You'll want to understand your device requirements before looking for transceivers (regardless of where you source them from).
 
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By the way, SFP and SFP+ transceivers can usually be found on ebay in the $4 to $8 range if you are not picky about the brand and age. I think I've never paid more than $6 for a 10 Gbps transceiver.
 
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If you're buying your fiber from fs.com their transceivers are usually around $12 so you might save a few $ sourcing elsewhere but you save on shipping and it's all on one order to aid in tracking you've picked the right types.
 
This fell off my radar for a bit as some priorities shifted with the build. I want to thank everyone who jumped in with info, I clearly have to do some reading and learning about fiber before moving forward then figure out my network options. I am no where near a networking person beyond elementary stuff so I will be leaning quite a bit on the expertise of others when I get back to this part of the build.
 
I’ll add if the conduit has been in place for a long time you might consider blowing / sucking it out! ☝️

Doing so will extend the service life of all the cables from standing water. I would really caution you from using indoor rated fibre cable outdoors. ‍♂️

The difference in cost is so small it makes very little sense. Lastly, using outdoor rated armoured cable, due care must be used.

As it relates to lightning prone areas.
 
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garycrist said:
Thanks @Teken , I learned too!

community.fs.com

How to Build Lightning Protection System for Fiber Optic Cables?

Why fiber optic cables need lightning protection? How should we build a lightning protection system for them? Get details all here.
community.fs.com community.fs.com
Click to expand...


That was a great reference article thanks for taking the time to share with the forum members.

As it relates to armoured fibre I wanted to call this out as we’ve seen a few cases where proper grounding wasn’t followed. ‍♂️

The vast majority of the general public just hear fibre - so it must be lightning proof!

In the one case the vendor installed the correct direct burial armoured fibre cable at the correct depth etc.

So how did they fail???

Someone bought a run that was three times the required length. No problem so far as you always want more than you need.

Besides zero grounding both ends were looped in a giant bundle!

What does a coil of wire do when electricity is run through it?!? It can become a huge magnet to an induction coil!

They placed one large ass coil on top of a 42U server rack that also wasn’t properly grounded. When lightning struck it energized that huge coil so part melted into the top cover. The induced voltage went through the entire rack and the rest of the wiring.

Blew out 150K of hardware that was just installed a week earlier. ‍♂️
 
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