HI all, wonder if someone can help, I have a DS-2DE4A425IW-DE, all installed Smart Tracking is poor, it has a mind of its own. I have setup with Smart Events, when it trys to track a car it locks on just about then as it moves to the right it cannot keep up! the cars are not going that fast. Then Secondly when it tracks people as they go under the camera it loses them and goes into a spin?
DS-2DE4A425IW-DE Tracking not Great
- Thread starter scuzzie2k
- Start date
I don't have a sollution, sorry. I am interested in the replies you get as i am also trying to find a fix for this exact problem with the 2MP version. Also, when it locks onto a walking target it will often overshoot the target and zoom into the distance.
I have a Dahua autotracking PTZ, but I am sure the concepts are the same (terminology may be a little different)
It would help to show some video of what you are experiencing, and if the camera allows you to show the object tracking box on the screen so we can see what it locked onto instead would be very helpful.
As you are seeing, these are not plug and play. You have to dial them in. But once you do, they are incredible. Mine hits the mark over 95% of the time.
Are you running default/auto settings?
It is a matter of getting the brightness/contrast and target ratio settings correct.
I always knew that you shouldn't chase a bright picture - it looks nice and people migrate towards a brighter TV for example, but upon closer examination, most images need to be toned down in order to get all the details. You will be surprised how much changing a parameter like gamma could impact tracking. For example, if you have a pesky tree or something in the middle of the view during an autotrack, just by changing some image parameters you can get autotrack to pass it. Making the image a little darker at night actually helped with tracking someone across the street, which was opposite of what I thought you would think to do. So add some contrast to your image above and see if it improves.
I have a yard lamp post that more times than not autotrack would get stuck on it as someone was walking and the autotrack would only go so far. Because my image has soo much contrast (bright white concrete a third, blacktop road a third, grass a third), knocking down the gamma made the lamp post not be so "trackable" lol, and along with that I turned of PFA and that gave it just enough time to retrack the person walking past the lamp post. The camera may still autotrack the lamp post when a small kid goes by, but an adult it was autotracking past the lamp post.
Ideally for an intrusion box or tripwires, you should have the initial field of view be such that the camera doesn't have to initially pan too much up/down or left/right to get the object in the center of the screen to start tracking. The closer the object is to the center of the image, the better the chance that it will track correctly.
The reason it starts looking upward or left or right is usually because the intrusion box is too big so the camera identifies the object before it is in the center of the field of view and then sometimes something else matches the "algorithm signature" of the initial object and then starts trying to track something that isn't there. Adjusting the field of view and the locations of the IVS rules to be closer to the center can fix that.
Autotracking PTZs are great, but they have limitations like everything else. Installed in a wrong location or with fields of view that do not give it a chance will be problematic. The vehicle for example - are you getting more of the front of the vehicle or the side of the vehicle before it starts autotracking -something as simple as adjusting the field of view to get more of the front of the vehicle can make all the difference whether it tracks correctly or not.
It would help to show some video of what you are experiencing, and if the camera allows you to show the object tracking box on the screen so we can see what it locked onto instead would be very helpful.
As you are seeing, these are not plug and play. You have to dial them in. But once you do, they are incredible. Mine hits the mark over 95% of the time.
Are you running default/auto settings?
It is a matter of getting the brightness/contrast and target ratio settings correct.
I always knew that you shouldn't chase a bright picture - it looks nice and people migrate towards a brighter TV for example, but upon closer examination, most images need to be toned down in order to get all the details. You will be surprised how much changing a parameter like gamma could impact tracking. For example, if you have a pesky tree or something in the middle of the view during an autotrack, just by changing some image parameters you can get autotrack to pass it. Making the image a little darker at night actually helped with tracking someone across the street, which was opposite of what I thought you would think to do. So add some contrast to your image above and see if it improves.
I have a yard lamp post that more times than not autotrack would get stuck on it as someone was walking and the autotrack would only go so far. Because my image has soo much contrast (bright white concrete a third, blacktop road a third, grass a third), knocking down the gamma made the lamp post not be so "trackable" lol, and along with that I turned of PFA and that gave it just enough time to retrack the person walking past the lamp post. The camera may still autotrack the lamp post when a small kid goes by, but an adult it was autotracking past the lamp post.
Ideally for an intrusion box or tripwires, you should have the initial field of view be such that the camera doesn't have to initially pan too much up/down or left/right to get the object in the center of the screen to start tracking. The closer the object is to the center of the image, the better the chance that it will track correctly.
The reason it starts looking upward or left or right is usually because the intrusion box is too big so the camera identifies the object before it is in the center of the field of view and then sometimes something else matches the "algorithm signature" of the initial object and then starts trying to track something that isn't there. Adjusting the field of view and the locations of the IVS rules to be closer to the center can fix that.
Autotracking PTZs are great, but they have limitations like everything else. Installed in a wrong location or with fields of view that do not give it a chance will be problematic. The vehicle for example - are you getting more of the front of the vehicle or the side of the vehicle before it starts autotracking -something as simple as adjusting the field of view to get more of the front of the vehicle can make all the difference whether it tracks correctly or not.
and this is when it goes crazy
Vimeo Link
Vimeo Link
thunderbolt
n3wb
Hi scuzzie, could you do me a big favour? I own the same model PTZ, but a rebranded from Annke. Could you tell me the newest firmware you have? The reason is, that I would like to flash mine with the Hikvision firmware, but the firmware which I found is older than the installed from Annke. May thanks!
Hi scuzzie,
I dont have problems like this.
First movie: Looks like it has something to do with the speed of the tracking. The car is gone before de cam gets it.
Second movie: is de front of the camera pointed to the front?
My problem is: the time from when a smart track movement is over to the moment when the cam goes back to preset 1 is 10 seconds in your movie. Here its 5 seconds, where did you set this to 10?
I dont have problems like this.
First movie: Looks like it has something to do with the speed of the tracking. The car is gone before de cam gets it.
Second movie: is de front of the camera pointed to the front?
My problem is: the time from when a smart track movement is over to the moment when the cam goes back to preset 1 is 10 seconds in your movie. Here its 5 seconds, where did you set this to 10?