BI5 configuration

J

JPaul

n3wb
Dec 11, 2017
15
4
Hi guys. I appreciate your time and assistance. I need some advice.

I have a NVR with a 26 cameras. They are all Reolink 410s or 520s. All 5MP cameras. All using motion capture. The NVR is a Windows 10 PC with an Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU @ 4.00GHz, 16GB RAM. I always use the main and sub streams with the Reolinks, Direct to Disk recording, and no overlays. The CPU seems to run around 20-30%. A little busy.

My NVR has a 2 drives. The boot drive is a Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB with about 800GB of free space before BI5 was installed. The data drive (D:) is a 13TB Toshiba. Shooting for a big history.

I don't really know how to set up Clips and Archiving. I thought I might use 700GB of the boot drive (C:) and force a move to the D: (Stored) every 7 days. I think I might be wearing out the C: drive. It's now showing me 3 Found.00# folders, each with just one file in it. Now I'm thinking I might need to use a smaller amount of the C: drive for the New folder clips. I wish I could be sure. I just changed it to use 300GB and I stuck with the 7 day age limit. Just guessing.

This has always confused me. I would greatly appreciate knowing your thoughts. Should I go with a smaller New folder and/or shorter age limit? Should I not use the New folder and just run it all to the Stored folder on the D: drive?

I apologize for being so lost with this. But thanks for whatever help you might have.
 
The only thing that should be on the C drive is the OS, BI and the BI database. ALL OTHER video should go to a large, terabytes, platter drive. SSD drive life is determined by how many write operations. Since video never stops writing it can use up the lifespan of an SSD relatively quickly. Things have gotten better in that sense with SSD drives, and may continue to improve, but in the mean time writing video to a platter drive, video surveillance rated and formatted to a block size of 1024 is the best way to go.

In terms of recording, most people use continuous plus triggered. That will record the sub stream until there is motion detected then switch to the main stream until the motion ceases. This will save significant drive space.

There is no point in moving files between "New" and "Stored" or setting delete times, in BI, by a number of days. Set the size to roughly 90% of the formatted drive space. Blue Iris will easily handle deletion when it's necessary and will maximize the amount of time, historical video, available. Moving files around also adds to both CPU and disk utilization.

Keep in mind that when recording continuous plus triggered that "alerts" are nothing more than marker in the BI database to that specific event in the recorded video and they are not separate and discrete files.
 
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I just wanted to limit things to storage practices for Blue Iris. The Reolink camera part will rear it's ugly head soon enough, unfortunately.
 
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Thanks for the advice. In BI, when I change the "New" folder to point to my existing "Stored" folder ("D:\Stored") I get the notice "Folders must be discrete and not subfolders of one another." So I set the BI "Stored" folder to a bogus folder on the data drive named "Nuthin" and reset the New folder (D:\Stored). I'll put a couple screen shots with this. Does this sound like the best way to do this? I wanted to just remove the New folder but it looks necessary. Do you think I should rebuild my database again? I restarted the NVR.

I've discovered that my cameras are taking a snapshot every minute on the minute! I don't want this! Do you know where this switch is? I'm on release 5.5.3.7. I can't select an automatic update but I think I can download the latest stable update and install this without violating my license.

Sorry to be this needy. Thanks for any help. I'd like to know more about the Reolink if you're inclined. I've had a few connection issues but they seem to be working.
 

Attachments

I recommend setting up BI's Clips and Archiving as per @SouthernYankee 's My Standard allocation post.

JPaul said:
I'll put a couple screen shots with this.
Click to expand...
Instead of posting PDF files, could you post JPEG images? If you're using Windows 10, it has a built in snipping tool snipping tool. It's very easy, with Windows Logo key + shift key + S key all at the same time, like this ==>>Open Snipping Tool and take a screenshot
JPaul said:
I've discovered that my cameras are taking a snapshot every minute on the minute! I don't want this! Do you know where this switch is? I
Click to expand...
IIRC, this is done on a per camera basis, so if all cams are doing this, then go to each cam to disable.
Go to Camera "settings" => "Record" tab and UNcheck the "JPEGs" box, then "OK" button at bottom.
 
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Blue Iris expects to see the directory names and structure that you see in the storage tab.

Blue Iris
...........New
...........Stored
...........Alerts

It simple, write ALL video to the New directory. If you have cameras that are alert triggered have them write to Alerts.

Reolink -

Compiled by mat200 -

Reolink: Deconstruction of a dangerous misleading youtube review "Finding the BEST 4K Security Camera NVR Package (Reolink vs Amcrest vs Swann)"

Executive Summary: DO NOT be a sheep. Ask what a reviewer can be missing, ask if a reviewer is using hype words to sell the cheapest product. Test your cameras and kits right away. Just do a bench test. Test real world conditions. Test moving suspects. Test at night, test at day. Use a test rig...
ipcamtalk.com ipcamtalk.com

A collection of various consumer grade failures -

The Typical picture of a Perp on Nextdoor-type Apps with Consumer Grade Cameras like Ring, Nest, Arlo, Canary, Wyze, etc.

Love these posts on Nextdoor type apps LOL. This thread will be used for members to post the poor quality consumer grade type camera images that we see people post to the Nextdoor type apps. Can anyone make out this person that went thru their cars LOL.... And this thread is where members...
ipcamtalk.com ipcamtalk.com
 
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Thanks for the links Sebastion. And especially the advice. I checked my SSD and it's at about 91 TBW. A good reason to just write to the HDD. So everything is going to the NEW folder which is mapped to the STORED folder on the data drive. I've also removed the JPG writes. I think someone has been messing with the camera properties because only half of them were configured with this. BTW, my CPU is running at under 10% now.

Not sure how much history I'll have with Continuous+Triggered. I originally intended to only record motion, and I may go back to that if the history is not adequate. Is there a reason not to trust the motion detection in BI? If it's dependable, why do continuous recording?

On the Reolinks, I have quite a few of these running now. I went purely on price. I put up 4 or so and tested them, and they meet the need. The most frustrating thing was finding working connection settings, but there was a BI forum that pointed me in the right direction. My latest issue was also a connection problem with the RLC-510A, because all the port settings were disabled. Once I turned them back on I was good. There are a couple places I wish I had a .28mm lens, but it's defined by the FOV I need. I use a different camera if I can't live with the FOV.

I have not been happy with Reolink support. The learning curve was steep, and I'm still having some issues just getting firmware for the new cameras. To their credit, they did let me return a couple of their NVRs. For the larger installations, these are not appropriate.
 
Regardless of how good motion detection is, something can always get thru. A perp could wear clothing than blends into the surroundings, etc., so recording continuous + triggered will get you 24/7 coverage - substream with no motion and then mainstream when triggered. Better to have something than nothing at all.

But if you are running substreams, continuous + alerted then you are sure to capture anything if for some reason motion or AI didn't pick it up.

While having lots of days/months sounds great, the reality of it is unless it was something catastrophic (which you would have known about sooner anyway), most are not going to start scrubbing video for something that may have happened a few weeks ago.

By spending time to dial in the alerts and a frequent peek at what is going on, you would have noticed something around your property within days. I literally every morning in under 30 seconds can scrub what happened the night before and see if anything happened I need to look at further

If a neighbor comes up to me and says "sometime around 2 weeks ago someone backed into my car, can you see if you caught it?" You will find that even with the best scrubbing this is a monumental task. Unless they can narrow down the day/time window, most of us are not going to scour it.

Couple that with the Reolinks that do not play well with BI and that up until recently could not hold a KEY in BI of 1.00 and we have seen people post screenshots of of KEY of 0.1, which meant if something was in and out of the camera field of view in under 10 seconds, BI motion would miss it completely.

So, under the BI camera status page, what are your KEY numbers? If they are not 1.0 and below 0.5, you are probably missing motion that you do not even know you are missing.

But then of course, Reolink is notorious for playing with the parameters, regardless of what the user set, so that the camera favors a nice bright static image at night, but then motion is a complete blur.
 
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Thanks for the insight. I tried to find the KEY in BI and the camera's webpage. I can't even find the Camera's Status page. Is this in Camera Settings? Sorry.

I don't think I can set the Key frame interval in a RLC-410 or RLC-510/520. I haven't found the setting. I also have to agree that a long history is questionable. This past week I was asked to recover a video 12 days old. I'm fortunate in that the requests nearly always have a specific date and time and place. Not always. I've spent many hours reviewing videos for the car that backed into a car scenario, or the thieves in the elevator shot. I've never been asked to go back more than 2 weeks. Even with these, I generally have a guy who looks first.

I have a mix of older Vivotek cameras and newer ReoLinks. Around 150 of the ReoLinks on 3 different sites. I like them. The 5MP resolution blows the Vivoteks away. Dark nights at 100ft are difficult for all of them, but they do ok. They're so cheap now. I choked on the early $700 Vivoteks ($1000 with mounts). Axis is worse. I'd love to buy American, but I don't think we make these types of cameras any more (big installations). I've tried a few Off Off Off brands, and will likely keep an eye on new ones. In the end, 32 ReoLink cameras at $45 each beats 32 Axis cameras at $450 each, at least in the minds of those buying them. So I work with that.
 
You can't set the key frame, also known as the iframe, on Reolink unless you update firmware to a much newer version. If you want good night vision, heck if you want a good camera at a reasonable price, look at the Dahua 5442 series. Yes, they're more than a $50 or $70 consumer grade camera, but if you want good night vision it's the only way you'll ever get it. In short, Reolink is substandard junk. Incidentally, there is no 5MP camera that will produce good night vision because there is not a 5MP sensor that is big enough to be able to do so.

Acceptable resolution and sensor sizes -

Disclaimer - These sizes are what the manufacturers advertise and may, or may not, be the true size of the sensor in the camera.
1/3" = .333" Great for 720P
1/2.8" = .357" (think a .38 caliber bullet) Great for 2MP
1/1.8" = .555" (bigger than a .50 caliber bullet or ball) Great for 4MP
1/1.2" = .833" (bigger than a 20mm chain gun round) Great for 8MP
 
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Thanks for that. I get it. The pixel size is important for low light levels. But in my world, I'm not unhappy with the ReoLink, it's night vision, or pixel density and size. It's similar to my real cameras. I use the big Fuji (102MP) when I can, but if my phone is what I have handy, I can still be immensely satisfied with the small, dense sensor. My Z-9 may not be as good as the Z-6 for night shots, spec-wise, but it's still quite nice. For me.

I very much appreciate your endorsement for the Dahua cameras. I took a brief look. I found a couple for a decent price that I might try. I actually prefer the 1080p versions. Bandwidth is a problem with dozens of cameras on a cat-5e LAN. I generally find a camera that's well reviewed, I read every single review, and try a small order (2-4) if I think it's worthwhile. I waste some time and money on it sometimes.
 
So many cameras look good today when there is no movement. But sadly, perps aren‘t statues. Hopefully you are making your comments of being happy with your cameras in the context of movement in the image, and not someone just standing there saying hello in the image!

I have, and have had, reolink cameras; Inexpensive and resasonable image in my opinion. Great for locating my pets in the house (zero sarcasm, i do mean that). But for outside at night as well as during the day I have learned they don’t stand up to the cameras being recommended on this forum. But it took me several years to realize what I was missing. But that is just me and my stubborn “it looks good” approach.
 
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CAT5e is gigabit capable cable. If you've got a bandwidth problem with 30 or 40 cameras on CAT5e there's something seriously wrong. I'm running 22 cameras at the moment, a mix of 2MP and 4MP all with higher than normal bit rates and CBR to boot. Network stays under 300Mb/PS even with lots of motion and that's running both the main and sub streams.

You say you like 1080P but you said you're installing 5MP. They sure aren't 1080P.

Have a look at these threads regarding Reolink, primarily, but it also includes some of the other low end stuff that uneducated consumers buy based on YouTube reviews -

Compiled by mat200 -

Reolink: Deconstruction of a dangerous misleading youtube review "Finding the BEST 4K Security Camera NVR Package (Reolink vs Amcrest vs Swann)"

Executive Summary: DO NOT be a sheep. Ask what a reviewer can be missing, ask if a reviewer is using hype words to sell the cheapest product. Test your cameras and kits right away. Just do a bench test. Test real world conditions. Test moving suspects. Test at night, test at day. Use a test rig...
ipcamtalk.com ipcamtalk.com

A collection of various consumer grade failures -

The Typical picture of a Perp on Nextdoor-type Apps with Consumer Grade Cameras like Ring, Nest, Arlo, Canary, Wyze, etc.

Love these posts on Nextdoor type apps LOL. This thread will be used for members to post the poor quality consumer grade type camera images that we see people post to the Nextdoor type apps. Can anyone make out this person that went thru their cars LOL.... And this thread is where members...
ipcamtalk.com ipcamtalk.com
 
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You're right. Gigabit is pretty quick, and I'd like these cameras to be gigabit cameras, but that's a hard one. The LAN backbone is. There's a collection of other stuff on the LAN, and this LAN is actually about 60 cameras and 7 servers with a collection of other PCs and phones and printers. It's grown. Still, dropped frames are not that common. I have to watch it. I drop the frame rates to around 10fps on the main stream, definitely use sub streams, and whatever else I can use to make it easier on the BI servers and LAN within reason.

I do like the 1080p size. It's all I really need, but it's harder to find now. Thus the 4-5MP. I buy the ReoLinks mostly because of the cost. But also because they're stable and look good (images). My last capture recently was a thief going into cars late at night, and I was really happy with the images I gave to the cops. My old Vivoteks are 1MP cameras. Still usable, not preferred, but they were in the mix with the thief. My next cameras might be Dahua. We'll see.

Thanks for taking the time to help, and the advice. I sincerely appreciate it.
 
 
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Why would you want a camera, a device that at best uses 10Mb/PS of data, to connect at a gigabit?
 
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Well..., Fast Ethernet is a decent standard (100Mbps), but faster is better. I want the top-end CyberTruck, too. If I had GB cameras, I'd probably put in a 2.5GB backbone, and any dropped frames I have would be a thing of the past. I might do that anyway.

Thanks for the links, Looney2ns. The cameras I buy need more than just 1080p, though. I have a few of those, and they need to be stable and dependable. Still testing them.
 
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