Anyone use this SunEye PTZ POE camera with BI?

[erkme73]

Anyone use this SunEye PTZ POE (SP-P1802SPTZ-POE) camera with BI?

http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Wk6AEiy

It says ONVIF, so I'm hoping it's compatible. I just ordered two to put over my kids' cribs.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't spend >$100 for a 1080p camera (God aren't we spoiled?) - but I find the zoom (from 2.8 to 12mm) to be particularly appealing. I'm just hoping BI can interface with the controls.

 

[fenderman]

@erkme73,
That looks like a ratingsecu camera that is compatible with blue iris, though I would stay away from that stuff...

 

[erkme73]

It's a bit of an impulse buy. Is there anything particular about the ratingsecu design that's troublesome?

 

[fenderman]

It's a bit of an impulse buy. Is there anything particular about the ratingsecu design that's troublesome?

No, I just dont trust the no name stuff...particularity when moving parts are involved..if it works well, its not a bad price for the feature set..

 

[erkme73]

I know the feeling. I'm in love with my Hiks, and feel disloyal for even looking elsewhere. But, they don't offer any PTZ for indoors that fit the profile I'm looking for - never mind the price they want for PTZ.

The one I have above my boy's crib is a first-generation 720p knock-off that was $80. Really, the image quality is not bad. The only reason I'm changing is because the IR LED ring is starting to flicker. That triggers nearly-constant MD at night. If I get anywhere near the time out of these new ones as I did with the one I'm replacing, it'll be a success.

Just would have been nice to get some feedback from people who've used them.

 

[fenderman]

There are some threads discussing the ratingsecu cams over at cam-it...you can get some idea...

 

[Larebear]

Yep, it sure does look like a ratingsecu. I have one that looks just like the one in your link, but mine isn't a PTZ camera. It's an OK camera but not one of my favorites. I replaced it with a Hik 2432 and just use the ratingsecu as a spare.

 

[erkme73]

Well, it came in today. Despite being advertised, ordered, and labeled as PoE, attaching my 802.3af powered ethernet cable to it, leaves it dark. I've had to connect the included 12V wallwart to it. I've sent an email to the seller for clarification. Without PoE, it'll significantly complicate the installation over my kids' cribs.

From a performance standpoint, the 1080p is pretty clear - at least on par with the 1080 on the Hiks. The zoom function (from 2.8 to 12mm) works, although the camera cannot zoom and focus simultaneously. That means as you zoom, you lose focus. Only after the zoom function stops, will the focus catch up. The time to zoom from min to max is about 15 seconds, and has to be done in steps (holding the + or - key doesn't work). So trying to follow any action with the zoom is pointless. Framing a perfect shot, on the other hand, will work just fine.

BI does pass through the PT and Z commands just fine (though I had to use the ratingsecu profile, not the ONVIF discovered or Suneyes profile).

PT speed can be adjusted, and it's quite a bit faster than my now-obsoleted Foscam clones. IR LED and IR-CUT can be manipulated independently - which is nice for turning off the built-in LED emitters, and using the IR from other cameras in the room, without losing the IR-CUT.

I've not tested the microphone or speakers.

The motors used to drive the movement is louder than any PTZ I've used before. I suspect my boy will hear it if I make any adjustments. He likes to ham it up for the cameras now, so that'll just be his cue to start his performance.

All in all, my initial impressions are good. I'll wait to hear back from the seller on the PoE issue. If it's a relatively simple fix, I'll order a second for my daughter's room.

 

[nayr]

It says it has a "POE Splitter Built in" this pretty much means its passive PoE, not active... so you have to inject 12v passively on the unused pair..

not going to work with 48v Active PoE, and it wont go as far as its going to be more susceptible to voltage drop.. unless you use a 48v Active to 12v DC passive adapter on the other end.

 

[erkme73]

Well, that would mean I cooked it. I'm using a 16 port switch that I modified to inject 48VDC on the unused pairs. It supplies power to pins 45(+) and 78(-). It's always on. So any device that gets plugged into it gets 48VDC on those ports.

Still, the camera is connected to that switch right now, with no power. So I applied 12V to the barrel plug with supplied adapter. You would think that if the camera was exposed to over-voltage, it would have cooked the device.

 

[nayr]

no active 802.3af 48v poe wont cook anything.. thats the point, its only going to power devices that ask for it... and your camera is not providing proper resistance on the power pairs to signal its a PoE device.. Your switch should have never powered up that port.

Active PoE is safe for all devices plugged into the port, the port will only turn on if when a PoE device is plugged in.. Passive PoE however is not, and provides power always, regardless of the device on the other end.. its powered even without a device plugged in.

 

[erkme73]

No, the switch I used is not active. It's passive - self-built. Constant power on pins 4&5 and 7&8. There is no negotiating or resistance checks.

I've taken the back cover off, and am mapping out the pinouts, and if there is a built in injector/splitter, it's not there. There is no continuity between the red 12V wire going into the camera and the RJ45 pins.

 

[nayr]

its probably on the silicon, and if done right has a diode on each input.. so there wont be any continuity between inputs as they will only let power in one direction.. you dont want the ethernet pair powered if giving external power and the diodes keep you from damaging it with reversed polarity.

too much voltage dont always mean you toasted it, it depends on the design of the circuitry..

 

[erkme73]

So, it turns out that this camera is PoE compliant with 'endspan' switches only. The PoE 802.3af standard has two versions - and any device that is fully compliant, must accept either.

Endpan: Power and data on pins 1&2 (+) and 3&6 (-). Pins 4&5 and 7&8 are unused.

Midspan: Power is on pins 4&5 (+) and 7&8 (-), and data is on pins 1&2 and 3&6.

My 'passive' switch that I created is only capable of midspan. This IP camera will only accept power on the endspan configuration.

Rather than add another $50 fully compliant switch that will do both, I've simply added a $6 midspan injector at both ends of the cable, and am using the supplied 12VDC wallwart adapter. It works. It's not as neat or pretty, but since I will only have two cameras like this, it doesn't make sense to add an new switch.