Advice on Outdoor PoE Camera

write2dgray

write2dgray

n3wb
Sep 6, 2017
6
0
I could use some experienced advice on a PoE camera for outdoor use. It will be have PoE and be mounted on a 4"x4" wood post about 6 feet high looking down our gravel drive. I would like it to offer reasonable performance in low light with about a 100' range out to the main road.

I'm not in a big rush to buy and have been considering cameras from Dahua, Hikvision, and Ubiquiti although I am not familiar enough with their product lines to make an intelligent decision. I am willing to purchase a NVR or build/buy a dedicated server as appropriate. What would you recommend for the best solution?

Cheers,
David
 
write2dgray said:
I could use some experienced advice on a PoE camera for outdoor use. It will be have PoE and be mounted on a 4"x4" wood post about 6 feet high looking down our gravel drive. I would like it to offer reasonable performance in low light with about a 100' range out to the main road.

I'm not in a big rush to buy and have been considering cameras from Dahua, Hikvision, and Ubiquiti although I am not familiar enough with their product lines to make an intelligent decision. I am willing to purchase a NVR or build/buy a dedicated server as appropriate. What would you recommend for the best solution?

Cheers,
David
Click to expand...
you will need a ptz camera with high zoom to see anything useful at 100f....start reading...
 
Thanks for the reply!

I'm not really expecting to see 100' down the drive with any resolution, 20-40 feet will be typical range. 100' is to the main road. I'm mainly interested in monitoring traffic down my drive, at my workshop (30' away), and to tell if the mailman came (at the 100' mark, end of drive).
 
mat200 said:
yes, noticed that - however if you look at how he set his up it worked well outdoors in a covered location.

For the IP66 or the like requirements you're looking at a larger camera.
example: SD49212T-HN | Dahua Technology - Dahua Technology
Click to expand...

I have that behind my garage which is covered my first floor deck. Unfortunately, I also have another version of that larger camera (see signature) which I have to take down and is exposed to rain. I'm really looking for an outdoor ip66+ PTZ that's not more than 8 inches tall,wide or deep. i think domes might work for me because the outdoors are well lit enough that the IR would probably not turn on. They don't with that Dahua larger camera.
 
cornholio said:
I have that behind my garage which is covered my first floor deck. Unfortunately, I also have another version of that larger camera (see signature) which I have to take down and is exposed to rain. I'm really looking for an outdoor ip66+ PTZ that's not more than 8 inches tall,wide or deep. i think domes might work for me because the outdoors are well lit enough that the IR would probably not turn on. They don't with that Dahua larger camera.
Click to expand...

Plastic Dome will decay with direct UV exposure, you probably want to avoid that.
 
looney2ns said:
Please tell us more.
Click to expand...
Sure thing... I actually started a topic to help people with this. You can search for it but here is a rundown. Clear coat has UV protectant, hence why vehicle paint lasts forever. It would be a very similar process that is used when "restoring" headlights. You can take the dome to an automotive paint & body shop to get this done since the clear coat is much better quality than spray cans (catalyzed polyurethane vs enamel/acrylic/polyurethane that you find in every hardware/automotive store). It shouldn't cost very much either. DIY is an option but it is probably not cost prohibitive.


For the DIY'ers:

Follow the steps in this video as it is the exact same process except you don't have to worry about sanding all of the old UV coating off on the dome as it doesn't have any. Just scuff the plastic until it is hazy.
In this video "plastic primer" is adhesion promoter. They are one and the same, it is a regional terminology.

Parts needed:
1) You want a catalyzed (also known as 2 part, 2 pack, or 2K) polyurethane clear coat. This is the only product that I know of in a can form: 2K Clear coat - SprayMax
- It is VERY bad for you!!! Use proper PPE. For more information research isocyanates on the health hazards.
2) Adhesion promoter (plastic primer) - this can be sourced at any hardware/automotive store. I'm pretty sure they are all clear but make sure that is the case before purchasing.
3) 600 grit "wet or dry" sandpaper (the automotive type NOT the wood type)
4) Wax & Grease Remover
5) Tape
 
Last edited:
Thank you.
I assume if done properly, it shouldn't affect any optical property's of the dome?


Probird79 said:
Sure thing... I actually started a topic to help people with this. You can search for it but here is a rundown. Clear coat has UV protectant, hence why vehicle paint lasts forever. It would be a very similar process that is used when "restoring" headlights. You can take the dome to an automotive paint & body shop to get this done since the clear coat is much better quality than spray cans (catalyzed polyurethane vs enamel/acrylic/polyurethane that you find in every hardware/automotive store). It shouldn't cost very much either. DIY is an option but it is probably not cost prohibitive.


For the DIY'ers:

Follow the steps in this video as it is the exact same process except you don't have to worry about sanding all of the old UV coating off on the dome as it doesn't have any. Just scuff the plastic until it is hazy.
In this video "plastic primer" is adhesion promoter. They are one and the same, it is a regional terminology.

Parts needed:
1) You want a catalyzed (also known as 2 part, 2 pac, 2K) polyurethane clear coat. This is the only product that I know of in a can form: 2K Clear coat - SprayMax
- It is VERY bad for you!!! Use proper PPE. For more information research isocyanates on the health hazards.
2) Adhesion promoter (plastic primer) - this can be sourced at any hardware/automotive store. I'm pretty sure they are all clear but make sure that is the case before purchasing.
3) 600 grit "wet or dry" sandpaper (the automotive type NOT the wood type)
4) Wax & Grease Remover
5) Tape
Click to expand...
 
looney2ns said:
Thank you.
I assume if done properly, it shouldn't affect any optical property's of the dome?
Click to expand...
You're welcome. There are zero adverse effects (only positive) if done properly. If anything it should add value in the resell market. Optics are very important in headlights as well. You definitely don't want an unfocused light beam pattern as you want to see your surrounding good at night. So it's the same principle, with headlights the light is going out and with cameras the light is coming in.
 
Probird79 said:
You're welcome. There are zero adverse effects (only positive) if done properly. If anything it should add value in the resell market. Optics are very important in headlights as well. You definitely don't want an unfocused light beam pattern as you want to see your surrounding good at night. So it's the same principle, with headlights the light is going out and with cameras the light is coming in.
Click to expand...
no one is going to pay you extra for a coated dome...you have no idea whether it would affect optics, it likely will...light passing through is very different than a camera...
This is all nonsense, because it takes a long time for sun to cause damage to the dome if ever - save the cost and use it towards a new cam..there are bigger issues with domes that this does not solve...so whats the point...
 
with 2 pack urethane you have to etch the clear coat that is why the base coat is a flat base and needs to be lightly rubbed back before applying
the clear coat.if you rub the dome then its going to become hazed,and the clear coat wont fix that,if you spray strait over with clear coat it will in time flake off,look at some cars where the clear coat hasn't been applied properly they have flaked off patches.
only my two cents worth been using 2 pack for 28 years.
I have had a mini dome parked in direct sun light in Australia painted black this is now coming up to its 3rd summer
it has not failed.
I have done this to push the camera way beyond its intended use.
And when or if it ever fails i will post how long it lasted in extreme desert conditions our summers here hit 48c- 118.4f
 
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