A Bit Off-Topic, ? About AC Wiring ...

[icpilot]

I have a question about running new AC electrical lines to power new outdoor lighting. The lights illuminate important areas for camera captures, hence, the tie-in to this forum.

What I need to do is pretty simply, but as I've not done it before, I'd like to be sure of my plans. I currently have an outdoor light fixture that I will extend to the new lighting. There will be two (2) new fixtures on motion lights. I imagine it like a capital T with the source (existing fixture) being at the base of the T, then the wire runs from the bottom to the juncture at the top of the T. This is where I get a bit confused. From the juncture at the top of the T, do I just run a single wire out to the left part of the T and a separate wire to the right part of the T? OR .... do I run a complete circuit with a wire running from the bottom of the T all the way out to the Left part of the T and then another wire running from the Left part of the T to the Right part of the T?

I hope I explained it well.

Suggestions are welcomed.

 

[TonyR]

What's in the existing fixture?
If we're talking U.S., there should a 120 VAC "HOT" (black), an AC neutral (white) and probably an earth ground (green or bare) in the box feeding the existing fixture.

You don't want any splices inside of conduit or where they're inaccessible so unless there is a junction box or condulet "T" at the top, I'd run new conductors (two sets of white, black and likely green) continuously from the existing fixture all the way to the new fixtures (1 set to to each new fixture).

 

[icpilot]

What's in the existing fixture?
If we're talking U.S., there should a 120 VAC "HOT" (black), an AC neutral (white) and probably an earth ground (green or bare) in the box feeding the existing fixture.

You don't want any splices inside of conduit or where they're inaccessible so unless there is a junction box or condulet "T" at the top, I'd run new conductors (two sets of white, black and likely green) continuously from the existing fixture all the way to the new fixtures (1 set to to each new fixture).

Yes, the existing fixture has 3 conductors, a black, a white and a ground.

No splices inside conduit. Using junction boxes for all connections. Yes, there is a box at the juncture of the T. So maybe think of it this way .... 3 fixtures, A (the source at the bottom of the T), B (2nd fixture at the end of the left branch of the T, and C (3rd fixture at the end of the right branch of the T). So I want to extend the circuit from A (existing) to B (new) and to C (new).

Wiring .... Can I do one wire from A to the juncture at the top of the T - and then a 2nd wire from the T juncture to B - and a 3rd wire from the T juncture to C ? The 3 wires would terminate in the box at the T juncture. I think this is wrong, but a somewhat knowledgeable friend suggested this would work, which has me re-thinking my plan and is the reason I asked here.

I think the right way to do it is, run a wire from A through the juncture at T all the way to B. Then a 2nd wire from B to C.

Am I correct?

 

[TonyR]

Each fixture needs a black and a white (hot & neutral) to operate, a green (earth ground) is advisable if in the original fixture.

Whether you splice the 3 at the top of the T and head left to B and right to C is your choice (black to black, white to white, green to green)

Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker feeding the circuit and test to insure it is, in fact, OFF before you attempt any modifications....read hot to neutral and read hot to ground.

 

[icpilot]

Each fixture needs a black and a white (hot & neutral) to operate, a green (earth ground) is advisable if in the original fixture.

Whether you splice the 3 at the top of the T and head left to B and right to C is your choice (black to black, white to white, green to green)

Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker feeding the circuit and test to insure it is, in fact, OFF before you attempt any modifications....read hot to neutral and read hot to ground.

OK. So the circuit is completed merely by having all Hot and Neutral conductors terminated together. That's what my friend said too. This simplifies things.

Thanks.

 

[Mike A.]

Assuming that it's nothing unusual then, yes, you can take a single run (A) and connect two different runs (B and C) within a junction box. Just get some twist-on wire nut connectors and join the same wires from each run.

 

[icpilot]

@TonyR and @Mike A. - thank you guys. Much appreciated.

 

[Teken]

I would like to add some basic information in case you're not aware of the same.

- Wire Fill: Every JB depending upon the size of the box dictates how much wire is allowed within. So insure you purchase the correct size JB. Given this simple wiring this won't be an issue unless you go out of your way to use a none standard box!

- Connections: Do not simply use the wire nut / marrette to twist the wires together. Use linesman pliers to twist and secure the wiring and then finalize the same with the correct sized wire nut / marrette.

- Grounding: Insure the JB is properly grounded and don't rely on the conduit as a means to ground the system.

- Gasket: Insure the new light fixtures use a solid gasket to prevent moisture / water to penetrate the homes envelope. If you decide to use any caulking insure its outdoor rated. If the fixture incorporates a bleed port / drain hole do not cover it up its there for a reason to allow any condensation to flow out.

Good Luck . . .

 

[icpilot]

Well, I got the project mostly completed and now have a Stadium Lighted Alley!



The solar lights were installed prior to the motion lights now powered by AC, so it's been made redundant, but I'll probably leave it for now.

Sure hope visitors don't judge me on how 'welcoming' the alleyway entrance looks, because it isn't (welcoming, that is)....

As an aside, I was having problems with one connector which was giving me fits. I had been using trusty wire nuts, but every time I'd button up the J-Box, the power would drop. I finally ended up trying some of these Wago Lever Nuts (Amazon.com) and problem was immediately solved.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[wittaj]

Looks great.

I have been tempted to get some of those solar street lights to place on top of the No Parking signs LOL.

But I figure the city and my neighbors probably wouldn't appreciate it LOL.

 

[Flintstone61]

Does that Solar panel rotate ? if a Guy wanted the same thing but orientated 180 degrees would that be possible?

 

[icpilot]

Does that Solar panel rotate ? if a Guy wanted the same thing but orientated 180 degrees would that be possible?

Yes indeed. While the orientation options are not limitless, they are VERY flexible. This is the light you see in the photo ....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099F8KW2N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1