Huisun DM-SCB405IP-V10-E having problems with using PTZ/presets only at night

M

marklyn

Pulling my weight
Jun 13, 2015
497
130
Would be interesting in hearing from anyone that has this model of camera, especially with the firmware version above that is or isn't having problems using the PTZ & presets at night.
My issue is that during the day the presets and PTZ work flawlessly. At night when I use them for more than a few seconds the camera always (100 % of the time) reboots. If I set the IR mode to off then it never reboots at night.
During the daytime it never reboots. If I force the IR mode on during the day it never reboots. There is some distinction about night time when the IR mode is set to on/auto that it reboots when using the PTZ and presets, every time.
I've done the standard troubleshooting (factory reset, etc.) and the manufacturer did send an updated firmware (MiniPtz_V1.0.2_build201603031541) but this hasn't fixed the issue and we're still working on it.

If you have this model camera and can verify it doesn't reboot like mine at night when using the PTZ and presets please reply back with your firmware version. Maybe I just got a bum camera and something else is wrong and it isn't the firmware, so that info might help.

Thanks


*** updated info ***
I've posted further in this thread that I got a replacement camera and experiencing the exact same issues. Even trying 3 different POE switches doesn't matter or a different cat 6 cable run. The only common "fix" is when I plug a power supply in, it works 100% of the time at night (PTZ and presets).
 
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I hadn't thought about that... I do have an 8 port POE switch TP Link, model TL-SG1008PE.
I have 5 cameras, including that one, plus a connection to my router (2 free ports) connected.
Would it be as simple as adding up all the wattage's the cameras use at night time and comparing that to the wattage of the switch?
 
I had that issue too, it was power related, but culprit was Cat5e cable
 
fenderman, I checked the other cams I have on my POE switch, and there doesn't appear to be that much wattage used.
The POE switch handles 124w total, the cameras I have connected are max of 18w, 7w, 7w and 20w.
Each POE port can handle up to 24w. I was excited when you suggested that but now I guess I'm back to square 1.
 
Cole Wood said:
Yup, It is due to insufficient power, when I upgraded an old cheapo analog camera to a Huisun V1 (The first V1 I purchased) I used the existing 12V 1A PSU, Turns out Huisun Mini PTZs are quite power hungry and require at least 2A to operate flawlessly.
Click to expand...
So I guess I don't get it, if I have 124w total power for my POE ports and am using only about 50w then why am I having an issue with so much wattage left over?
 
yup. power. but it does look like your switch is up to the job, which leaves the cable as suspect.
try re-crimping both ends (one at a time) and if that doesn't help, replace it.

then again, the cam may have a lame PoE power converter that craps out when the device need the most power.
in that case, you'll need to supply external 12V power to bypass the bad PoE board...
 
marklyn said:
So I guess I don't get it, if I have 124w total power for my POE ports and am using only about 50w then why am I having an issue with so much wattage left over?
Click to expand...

Cat5e is usually 24g, less twist, you have greater power loss of longer distances compared to cat6. Or it could just be a bad wire inside your run, a little thin from manufacturing or a bend that has almost severed it.
 
By the way, I'm using a new cat 6 cable, 25' so I'm less inclined to blame the cable. I've also used this same cable on this same run for the camera that was replaced by this camera. It worked fine but it wasn't a PTZ camera and I didn't have problems with the cable then, so I'm leaning in the direction of the cable being ok.
 
stoney7713 said:
Cat5e is usually 24g, less twist, you have greater power loss of longer distances compared to cat6. Or it could just be a bad wire inside your run, a little thin from manufacturing or a bend that has almost severed it.
Click to expand...
In my case as I mentioned "poe+ switch" and cat5e ok where "nvr poe" + cat5e isn't. Is POE+ switch pushing more power through the cable?
 
if it's a known-good cable, then i'd suspect the PoE board in the cam.
Either power directly with 12v supply or use a PoE splitter like that linked above.
 
poe+, yes it would be supplying more so even over the drop, it is still enough to power the cam 100% of the time.
 
I have some extra power supplies laying around from other cameras, what is the specs I need if I want to try one of those without burning out the camera?
I have one that has 12v/1a output and one that is 12v/1.5a output, which one would work?
 
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Try the 1.5 amp. Some have reported here that a 2 amp supply is required but I actually ran mine on a one amp off an old linksys router.

For current (amps) more is better on the supply side. Not so with volts however!

And they need to be DC. So the supply will say something like "output 12vdc 1000ma".

Good luck.
 
marklyn said:
I have some extra power supplies laying around from other cameras, what is the specs I need if I want to try one of those without burning out the camera?
I have one that has 12v/1a output and one that is 12v/1.5a output, which one would work?
Click to expand...
Are you using name brand copper cable? CCA/copper clad aluminum is known to cause these type of issues.
 
What port are you using on the switch? TP-Link have Port Priority which reduces power to the upper ports to keep the lower ports happy. Make sure you plug it into port 1.
 
bob2701 said:
What port are you using on the switch? TP-Link have Port Priority which reduces power to the upper ports to keep the lower ports happy. Make sure you plug it into port 1.
Click to expand...
I had tried a couple of different ports but didn't pay attention to the specific port. I think I read that port 1, 3,4 are priority, but I may have that wrong and will need to find the manual and read it again.
Still, I would think that with only using a total of about 50 watts from a 124 watt pool, I'd be ok. I'll check on what you stated though.
 
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