ok, per my laser measuring thingie, the trailer is about 50 feet from the camera, those trees are about 100 feet from the camera, and the 30 degree spotlight is about 75 feet from the corner of the woods.
Test video from my IPC-T5442T-ZE ...
- Thread starter Left Coast Geek
- Start date
ok, here's test # 4, with v1 of having extra lighting. probably too much but hey.
zoom at 12mm
gamma=60
exposure=1/60
exposure comp=55
advanced 3D NR=45 advanced 2D NR=25
no WDR/BLC/HLC
8192kbps CBR, 15fps, iframe=60
that IR spotlight is darn near too bright, OR I need more wider angle light in the foreground.
if you walk in my driveway in the dark, the IR spotlight is pretty obvious, while the various camera red LEDs are much harder to see until you get a lot closer to them.
zoom at 12mm
gamma=60
exposure=1/60
exposure comp=55
advanced 3D NR=45 advanced 2D NR=25
no WDR/BLC/HLC
8192kbps CBR, 15fps, iframe=60
that IR spotlight is darn near too bright, OR I need more wider angle light in the foreground.
if you walk in my driveway in the dark, the IR spotlight is pretty obvious, while the various camera red LEDs are much harder to see until you get a lot closer to them.
user8963
Known around here
looks alot better without all the overexposure 
yes... problem is that you have one spot...
if you click on any IR light here than you will find a cheap floodlight on amazon
but you can also buy "better" floodlights with 940nm/950nm ... they are less visible "red"... but not sure how they perform with 5442...
yes... problem is that you have one spot...
if you click on any IR light here than you will find a cheap floodlight on amazon
but you can also buy "better" floodlights with 940nm/950nm ... they are less visible "red"... but not sure how they perform with 5442...
Last edited:
bigredfish
Known around here
Yeah, standard silicon cmos chips don't do 940 at all well
I specifically wanted a spot to light that back area, if it was a flood, the trailer would be way too bright. It is too bright so I need a dimmer flood to equalize the foreground
I specifically wanted a spot to light that back area, if it was a flood, the trailer would be way too bright. It is too bright so I need a dimmer flood to equalize the foreground
wow, going on 4 pages now, hah. so tonight, i put some black tape over 2 of the 3 LEDs in the 30 degree IR illuminator I'd mounted to better balance the light
this is what it looks like now. (a still). much better balanced with the foreground than before. I didn't touch the camera settings, I just cut the illuminator by 2/3rds. I can probably bring the brightness/contrast up a bit.
this is what it looks like now. (a still). much better balanced with the foreground than before. I didn't touch the camera settings, I just cut the illuminator by 2/3rds. I can probably bring the brightness/contrast up a bit.
ok, the same perp walk where I U turn at about 160 feet from the camera, a IPC-T5442T-ZE at max 12mm zoom, with the dimmed IR narrow angle light aimed at the driveway entrance but not the trailer.
That's certainly an improvement! The "Identify" spec for that camera zoomed in all the way is only 42.7 feet which is really about what you are experiencing in these captures. I think there is still room for improvement though.
What are the camera's built in IR settings now? If they are still on, you might find you can turn down the telephoto one to help even out the IR across the entire view area. I think the gain setting is still a little too high which is why you are still getting some ghosting. Perhaps you will need to slightly increase the IR from the external emitter and perhaps even add another wide external emitter to even out the IR coverage closer to the camera. (You might need to use some tape like you did on the other emitter to keep the IR off the camper).
As far as the i-frame is concerned, it doesn't effect picture quality but it does effect the camera's interaction with BI and triggering, etc. Most people are going to recommend that it matches the frame rate of the camera. So if you have the camera set to 15 fps, then set the i-frame at 15 was well. The triggers in BI only occur at an i-frame, so if you have it set to 60, it could be 4 seconds before BI will act on a triggering event.
What are the camera's built in IR settings now? If they are still on, you might find you can turn down the telephoto one to help even out the IR across the entire view area. I think the gain setting is still a little too high which is why you are still getting some ghosting. Perhaps you will need to slightly increase the IR from the external emitter and perhaps even add another wide external emitter to even out the IR coverage closer to the camera. (You might need to use some tape like you did on the other emitter to keep the IR off the camper).
As far as the i-frame is concerned, it doesn't effect picture quality but it does effect the camera's interaction with BI and triggering, etc. Most people are going to recommend that it matches the frame rate of the camera. So if you have the camera set to 15 fps, then set the i-frame at 15 was well. The triggers in BI only occur at an i-frame, so if you have it set to 60, it could be 4 seconds before BI will act on a triggering event.
ok, I've set the iframe back to 15 as in 15fps. I initially cranked it up to 60 because I was getting one sharp frame then 14 really blocky ones every second but tahts before I upped the data rate to 8192 kbps.
btw, this last set, I disabled my privacy blocks in the lower left corner, and put a triangular piece of black 'suretape' (photographers tape) carefully across the lens to mask that area to prevent the night time glare from the too close stuff that I don't want to see anyways.
btw, this last set, I disabled my privacy blocks in the lower left corner, and put a triangular piece of black 'suretape' (photographers tape) carefully across the lens to mask that area to prevent the night time glare from the too close stuff that I don't want to see anyways.