Tips for a successful termination with RJ-45 connector

[JPmedia]

These are just some tips I learned from terminating CAT-5, 6 or any ethernet cable with RJ-45 connectors

• Use pass-through RJ-45 connectors. You can strip the jacket back a few inches to work with longer wires for proper pin assignment and then cut off the excess wires.
• 
  
• Proper termination becomes easier if the twisted wire pairs are straightened. They tend to stay in their assigned location as you pull the connector down to the jacket. I use the shank of a screwdriver to pull each wire individually between my thumb and the shank. I do this from 3 different angles, and the wire becomes straight as an arrow
• 
  
• Use a good termination crimper. A good solid crimp is paramount to a good connection. I used to use an “Ideal” from the local home improvement stores with inconsistent results. I switched to a Trendnet TC-CT68 crimp tool and have had consistent solid crimps since.
• 
  
• Use a cable tester to test and verify proper pin assignment and connection. You could use a fairly inexpensive model from Amazon for $10 - $15. They work well
• 
  
• Use weather resistant couplers or “glands” in conjunction with dielectric grease to keep a good connection outdoors. Even with that, if the location has room for a camera junction box, use it. It will provide a second layer of protection for the connection, especially of the camera is out in the open.

Feel free to add to or make suggestions to this list

 

[Ri22o]

This is a reply I gave in another post.

I have used a lot of the IDEAL connectors from Lowes, but got connectors from TrueCable when I made my last order. Both work well.

Also, a continuity tester is a must when making your own cables, especially when using a patch panel. It's saved my butt so many times.

Terminating CAT cable is easy.

1. Strip back the sheathing .75-1 inch. I use a coax type, rotary stripper.
2. Spread the twisted pairs into the approximate order they need to be in (Orange, Green, Blue, Brown).
3. Untwist the pairs down to where they enter the sheathing.
4. Put the conductors in the correct order (T-568B standard). At this point they are still splayed out, just in the correct order.
5. I then use something small and round to drag against the conductor to straighten it out (typically one of the wrenches supplied with an Empiretech cam).
6. I put the conductors flat against each other and into the correct order.
7. I hold the conductors flat (between my thumb and the side of my index finger) and then use my flush cuts to trim them straight and flush at about .5" from the sheathing (I use my thumb to set this distance when I hold them flat).
8. While still holding the conductors flat and against each other I slide them into the RJ45 connector and press firmly until they are fully inserted.
9. I do a check to make sure they are in the correct order and are all pressed completely to the end of the inside of the connector.
10. I crimp the connector.
11. I terminate the other end with a connector or punch it down to the patch panel.
12. I check with my continuity tester.
13. If all's good, Bob's your uncle.

 

[IReallyLikePizza2]

Good time saving tips I learned a while back

1. If you find yourself terminating ethernet, question why you're doing it
2. Buy punch down keystone jacks or surface mount blocks
3. Punch down cable in seconds with no hassle
4. Use pre-made patch cable to camera/device
5. ?????????????
6. Profit

Best yet, if the connector ever gets damaged or corroded, just swap the cable

 

[tigerwillow1]

Use pre-made patch cable to camera/device

Seriously? I don't think that would have worked out well for my 100 to 300 foot runs,, plus patch cables aren't intended for permanent wiring. Because of their flexibility they don't work well for horizontal runs with spaced-out supports.

 

[JPmedia]

This is a reply I gave in another post.

I have used a lot of the IDEAL connectors from Lowes, but got connectors from TrueCable when I made my last order. Both work well.

Also, a continuity tester is a must when making your own cables, especially when using a patch panel. It's saved my butt so many times.

Terminating CAT cable is easy.

1. Strip back the sheathing .75-1 inch. I use a coax type, rotary stripper.
2. Spread the twisted pairs into the approximate order they need to be in (Orange, Green, Blue, Brown).
3. Untwist the pairs down to where they enter the sheathing.
4. Put the conductors in the correct order (T-568B standard). At this point they are still splayed out, just in the correct order.
5. I then use something small and round to drag against the conductor to straighten it out (typically one of the wrenches supplied with an Empiretech cam).
6. I put the conductors flat against each other and into the correct order.
7. I hold the conductors flat (between my thumb and the side of my index finger) and then use my flush cuts to trim them straight and flush at about .5" from the sheathing (I use my thumb to set this distance when I hold them flat).
8. While still holding the conductors flat and against each other I slide them into the RJ45 connector and press firmly until they are fully inserted.
9. I do a check to make sure they are in the correct order and are all pressed completely to the end of the inside of the connector.
10. I crimp the connector.
11. I terminate the other end with a connector or punch it down to the patch panel.
12. I check with my continuity tester.
13. If all's good, Bob's your uncle.

Everyone's comfort level will be different and what is easy for some may be more challenging for others. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. As you get more experience, you'll find what method works well for you.

I prefer to use the pass-through style connector route because it's a method I have the most success with. I'm more confident I have the proper order of wiring as I put it together. Just my preference as I could never get the order of wiring consistent using non-pass-through connectors. This becomes frustrating for me when I have to re-terminate in a precarious location because wires got out of order during termination. Not so bad when on the ground, but still a time and connector waster none the less.

YMMV

 

[Ri22o]

The wire order jumping when inserted is why I do it the way I do. Leaving them long allows you to straighten them out and get them into proper order more easily. Getting them into order before trimming to length helps keep them in order after they are trimmed.

If you follow those steps, it really is very easy.

And my post isn't meant as an argument, only a response to "Feel free to add or make suggestions to the list".

 

[JPmedia]

And my post isn't meant as an argument, only a response to "Feel free to add or make suggestions to the list".

I appreciate input on this as it gives those who are new to terminating ethernet cables choices. I wasn't trying to argue, just my experience with pass-through connectors was more in my comfort level as I can get good repeatable results. Not so much with non-pass-through connectors. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.

As I said, everyone will find their comfort level as they gain terminating experience. No right or wrong method mentioned here; all good input, and they all accomplish the same task - termination.

 

[IReallyLikePizza2]

Seriously? I don't think that would have worked out well for my 100 to 300 foot runs,, plus patch cables aren't intended for permanent wiring. Because of their flexibility they don't work well for horizontal runs with spaced-out supports.

The long run is bulk cable, punched on both ends. Just a pre-made cable to connect the keystone jack to the device

 

[samplenhold]

I like the pass-through connectors. That is what I have used. Over 100 done for my system and only ONE miss-wired plug. And that was the very last one I did when I wired up my LPR cams. Always used a continuity tester.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KFOU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

[JPmedia]

The long run is bulk cable, punched on both ends. Just a pre-made cable to connect the keystone jack to the device

I worry about using a punch down connector in an outdoor environment, not to mention the introduction of two more connection points in the line. Two more areas that can become an issue down the road if not done well or properly protected.

 

[tigerwillow1]

The long run is bulk cable, punched on both ends. Just a pre-made cable to connect the keystone jack to the device

OK, just like multiple ways of terminating cables, multiple ways of interpreting some sentences.
Throwing out my own opinion, unless there's a darned good reason, minimizing connection points is my #1 priority. On a different subject, I've found the "insert" type of RJ45s to be every bit as easy to use as the passthroughs. When I did my >100 terminations a few years ago the passthroughs were way more expensive, but it looks like that's no longer the case. I do prefer the closed end of the insert type. The exposed wired ends of the passthroughs look to me like asking for trouble years down the road, especially with outdoor connections. All intuition with no data whatsoever to back it up.

 

[Oneup]

I do prefer the closed end of the insert type. The exposed wired ends of the passthroughs look to me like asking for trouble years down the road, especially with outdoor connections. All intuition with no data whatsoever to back it up.

You are correct, The exposed ends of the wire will wick up moisture/water between the wire and insulation and migrate back to the crimped connection. This produces corrosion and increases the resistance, sometimes to failure. I have seen this on various applications over the years, not just open ended RJ45 connectors. Wiring on boats are even more notorious. I would never recommend open ended wire connectors.

 

[JPmedia]

Doesn't matter which connectors or methods are used, without proper protection, any termination is subject to fail points. There are many ways for moisture to penetrate and cause corrosion. We just have to minimize the intrusion and use proper protection methods to make it last as long as possible.

Always be aware of the environment in which the installation is done and protect accordingly. Installs near a body of water, especially salt water, will require much stricter protection standards to resist the infiltration of moisture and salt.

Either way, I would always leave a few feet of extra cable at each location in case the connector becomes corroded needs to be replaced.

 

[looney2ns]

Judicious use of Dielectric grease on the RJ45, including spreading a little on the end of a passthrough connector, can definitely mitigate this issue.
I personally have some passthrough Rj45s, out doors with Dielectric grease that has been in service for 5+ years, and have had zero issues with corrosion.

As an experiment, I installed a cam and all i did was put Dielectric grease on the connection.
I didn't use a boot or junction box, It's hanging downward, working fine 3yrs later.

 

[Holbs]

These are just some tips I learned from terminating CAT-5, 6 or any ethernet cable with RJ-45 connectors

• Use pass-through RJ-45 connectors. You can strip the jacket back a few inches to work with longer wires for proper pin assignment and then cut off the excess wires.
• 
  
• Proper termination becomes easier if the twisted wire pairs are straightened. They tend to stay in their assigned location as you pull the connector down to the jacket. I use the shank of a screwdriver to pull each wire individually between my thumb and the shank. I do this from 3 different angles, and the wire becomes straight as an arrow
• 
  
• Use a good termination crimper. A good solid crimp is paramount to a good connection. I used to use an “Ideal” from the local home improvement stores with inconsistent results. I switched to a Trendnet TC-CT68 crimp tool and have had consistent solid crimps since.
• 
  
• Use a cable tester to test and verify proper pin assignment and connection. You could use a fairly inexpensive model from Amazon for $10 - $15. They work well
• 
  
• Use weather resistant couplers or “glands” in conjunction with dielectric grease to keep a good connection outdoors. Even with that, if the location has room for a camera junction box, use it. It will provide a second layer of protection for the connection, especially of the camera is out in the open.

Feel free to add to or make suggestions to this list

The ULTIMATE perfect way to terminate to RJ45 modular plug ends, is like getting 2 drunk dudes at a bar discussing FORD and CHEVY

The way I do it since I have terminated about 5,000 mod plug ends:
1.) open up the cable cladding a good 4-5 inches back from the tip to give you lots of space to untwist cables.
2.) spread all 4 pairs out like a + sign to start straighening
3.) use bicycle tire pressure screw driver (or small electrical screwdriver for those pheonix connectors) thingy (1/8" diameter) screwdriver to straighten out the pairs by lightly clamping the pairs between thumb and screwdriver. Orange & Green pairs have more twist in then than Blue & Brown so might take 2 swipes of the screw driver.
4.) now that pairs are spread out like a flower and straighten out, align via T568B color code (white/orange, orange, white/green, blue, white blue, green, white brown, brown).
5.) one more swiped of screwdriver on all pairs to make entire bundle straight.
6.) I prefer 2 part connectors as compared to pass thru or single modular pieces. Have done many in rain, when -20 degrees out, or in very NON-OSHA related situations on a tall ladder. I do NOT want to re-terminate mod plugs because 1 copper decided to jump in the wrong hole and I couldn't see it due to lighting or in a rush. 2 part connectors easily allow you to insert all 8 coppers and verify color code before crimping.
7.) Always crimp so that the crimping pressure compacts the cladding... NOT the copper itself.