Tapping into the Ethernet Cable to give Power to an IP Camera

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n3wb
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That statement makes no sense.

But I assume you are asking will it negotiate to gigabit or 100Mbit? Your cams will be 100M so it will run the links at 100M...which is the max. the cams can do and way more than enough.

The real question is can your cams handle PoE? Can you pls. post the specific models?
ReoLink RLC-410 and they are POE enabled, So would I just connect the Ethernet cord from the camera to the NVR and be done with it?
 

fenderman

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ReoLink RLC-410 and they are POE enabled, So would I just connect the Ethernet cord from the camera to the NVR and be done with it?
yes. Now, unrelated to poe, the camera and NVR may or may not play well together via onvif. You will certainly get video but sometimes there are issues with motion detection when the cameras and NVR and not fully compatible. Hopefully it will work.
 

Zorac

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tomw

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Hi Zorac, fans can be really annoying esp. the 40mm screamers.

It does seem tough to find a 16 port fanless but there are plenty of 8-10 port fanless switches incl. managed ones. I have a 10 port HP and ended up buying another 8 port TPLink switch with 4 poe ports as I needed a few more ports.
 

eeeeees

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Hello Group
Anyone considering powering their cameras over cat 5 cable should first understand how and why the 802.3af standard for POE was developed. If it is a cold start with nothing purchased so far just go with all 802.3af compliant cameras and ethernet switch. Everything will just work! If you already have the hardware and you want to do it on the cheap this post is for you. The biggest problem with POE is voltage drop in the cat5 cable. If the cameras are 5 volt powered this is very serious, particularly when you consider the increase in current that occurs when the IR illumination turns on and off. The secret is to increase the POE voltage at the switch end of the cable and add a step-down voltage regulator at the camera end of the cat5. For various reasons a switching regulator rather than a linear regulator should be used. They are < $1 on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3A-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module-replace-LM2596s-LF-/161809202413?hash=item25ac947ced:g:6QIAAOSwT6pV4S76
or if you want higher supply voltage
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-LM2596-Step-Down-Adjustable-Converter-Power-Supply-Module-LF-/161809202157?hash=item25ac947bed:g:weoAAOSw0JpV4SyO
The injectors are < $2 also on ebay.DSCN5231[1].JPG The plastic bag is a regulator as is the the black heat shrink covered lump in the camera power cable. Your new power supply voltage must be something exceeding the camera voltage, 24 volts is a good choice and need not be regulated. The regulator you add will compensate for any cable voltage drop, Generally the higher the better but do not exceed the input voltage rating of the power supply module that you use.
Don't forget to adjust the power module voltage to match the camera voltage (there's a pot to do it)
Don't forget to keep the water out.
Good Luck!
Eric
 
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