Problem with HIKVISION DS-KD8003-IME2 and electric strike

[Gauthier]

Hello, I bought a HIK vision video kit but I can't get my electric strike to work with the DS-KD8003-IME2.

I attach my photos, I followed a connection found on the forum but it does not work. Guess when I hit the screen unlock key, and the device says the door is open, there should be no resistance in the electric strike?

If anyone has any idea it would help me a lot. I would like to use the 12vDC from the 8003.

Thanks for your help !

 

[TonyR]

I don't have any of those items but I do have a question: since the strike is a DC device, it's polarity sensitive and because black is generally DC negative and red DC positive, I see a black wire coming from the N.O. output and a red wire on the GND which will work (wires don't know their color, only their polarity) but only IF you have the black on positive terminal and the red on the negative terminal at the strike.

 

[Gauthier]

I don't have any of those items but I do have a question: since the strike is a DC device, it's polarity sensitive and because black is generally DC negative and red DC positive, I see a black wire coming from the N.O. output and a red wire on the GND which will work (wires don't know their color, only their polarity) but only IF you have the black on positive terminal and the red on the negative terminal at the strike.

Thank you for your message, so I could according to you reverse the wires + and - in order to test if this changes anything on the electric strike? If not, does the connection seem coherent to you on the doorbell?

Thank you !

 

[Gauthier]

I tried again but I don't understand that it doesn't work. The wiring is therefore good. Do I have to activate something in hikvision?

I do the test as follows: the strike is therefore hard and does not open. I press the doorbell and then the screen key and the device tells me that the door is unlocked. At this point I hit the strike and it is still hard when it should be soft. The doorbell makes a small noise as if it were working (a small "tac") but the electric strike does not make any noise. I tested with another strike and it does the same.

What else can I test?

 

[TonyR]

I tried again but I don't understand that it doesn't work. The wiring is therefore good. Do I have to activate something in hikvision?

I do the test as follows: the strike is therefore hard and does not open. I press the doorbell and then the screen key and the device tells me that the door is unlocked. At this point I hit the strike and it is still hard when it should be soft. The doorbell makes a small noise as if it were working (a small "tac") but the electric strike does not make any noise. I tested with another strike and it does the same.

What else can I test?

I'd test the 12VDC output with a meter; if it looks good with no load try again while attempting to open the strike (with a load); should still be close to the no-load voltage.

 

[Gauthier]

Hello, I come back with my videophone problem because I arrive at the time of installing it in the new house.

I understood my problem because I did a test with a led. The door station sends a direct current to the electric strike. When I press the button to open the door, the door station relay turns off the led.

This means that I would need an electric strike that constantly locks itself with an electric current, and unlocks when the relay operates.

I have two electric strikes or it is AC / DC brand, but by default, they are always locked. They unlock under an electrical impulse.

Is it possible to modify these electric strikes, or do I have to buy a specific model? I'm lost !

Thank you for your help

 

[NoFate]

you can reverse it on the ds-kd8003

if you connect to NO1/GND => relay open always, closed when opening door
if you connect to NC1/GND => relay closed always, open when opening door

 

[casimirex]

@Gauthier Did you solve your issue? I've the same problem as yours. I'm using a Extel electric strike like this one:

https://www.domomat.com/109021-gache-electrique-1-temps-notice-extel-domomat.pdf

Although, it's written 12v AC/DC, I don't see how to make it work as DC. If I use a multi-meter I see that when pushing the doorbell button on the screen that it's going from 0 to 12v DC but the strike doesn't "buzz"

 

[Gauthier]

Currently no, I have tried a lot of things, in the NO and NC port, I tested with thin and thicker cable, and I also tested with a strip led that turns on and off when I 'activates the unlocking of the door. I really have the feeling that the power of the door station is not enough to generate the "buzz". I think that it would take an external power supply for the electric strike but I do not know enough about it and I did not especially foresee this wiring in my work and my frame ...

I am relatively disappointed with this brand, the remote calling function via wifi does not work well either. The delay is sometimes very long, of the order of 10 to 15 seconds.

I really hesitate to resell this material and move on to something better. I also had a lot of problem with my hikvision cameras (loss of quality, image, network settings) and I replaced everything with reolink on low-end amazon. And finally this material is much better!

 

[casimirex]

@Gauthier I finally made it work. It's maybe what could make it work for you too. I used an external power supply (it's a 8v but it's enough for the tests, I'll buy a 12v DIN)

Attached, the schematic of what is working for me.

Hope it can help.

 

[Gauthier]

Thank you very much for your answer ! I will indeed try, I always had the feeling that the diet was too weak. They should not then say that it could be used. Thanks again

 

[casimirex]

Thank you very much for your answer ! I will indeed try, I always had the feeling that the diet was too weak. They should not then say that it could be used. Thanks again

You're welcome
I agree with you, the Hikvision documention is so scarse, like their support in general.

 

[KamirZG]

Hi,

that 12V terminal from outdoor unit isn't supposed to supply power for electric strike. If you measure power from that terminal you'll get 12V, not 13.5V ( or something like that).
You need to use external power adapter.

 

[NoFate]

indeed, for strikes, always an external power is needed

 

[midlandsalarmchap]

Whether it's a strike or mag lock should always be using an external power source. The only time you wouldny is if you were using a unit like paxton net2/pac 512s or similar which have psu inside. But then if the draw is too much for their PSUs you would need an extra psu with better ampage.

 

[owenle]

Hello, I bought a HIK vision video kit but I can't get my electric strike to work with the DS-KD8003-IME2.

I attach my photos, I followed a connection found on the forum but it does not work. Guess when I hit the screen unlock key, and the device says the door is open, there should be no resistance in the electric strike?

If anyone has any idea it would help me a lot. I would like to use the 12vDC from the 8003.

Thanks for your help !

Hi,
I am installing a new one same model and having the same problem. Finally I notices that the 12VDC interface (A7) is not active on the 2-wire model (if you look at the manual it will show the interface as Reserved). However it is active on the IP model (with POE connection). It can not get more confusing than this. Attached is a capture from the manual.

 

[JP123]

Just thought I'd share my thoughts as we just installed one of these systems. Essentially the door station has a maximum of 12v, 1amp DC. I had a door strike which needed 1.44amps, but was an AC lock. No matter which way we wired it (NC/NO) we could not get it to work, and it was only after further investigation that we realised the door station could not output the required amps, along with the fact it was an AC powered locked.

I purchased a new lock, 12v, 0.33amps, DC, fail secure configuration (power is sent to unlock the door, and in the event of a mains failure, the door is locked). Installed via NO1/COM (CAT5e to the lock) and was able to open the door via the door station with no external power supply required. Door config in Hikvision is 'always closed.'

So in summary (a) avoid using an AC lock unless you have a separate power supply for it, and (b) if you plan on wanting to unlock the door via the door station, ensure the amps on the electric strike is below the 1000 milliamps that is supported to allow the unlock from the door station. Cheers.

 

[electronized]

Just thought I'd share my thoughts as we just installed one of these systems. Essentially the door station has a maximum of 12v, 1amp DC. I had a door strike which needed 1.44amps, but was an AC lock. No matter which way we wired it (NC/NO) we could not get it to work, and it was only after further investigation that we realised the door station could not output the required amps, along with the fact it was an AC powered locked.

I purchased a new lock, 12v, 0.33amps, DC, fail secure configuration (power is sent to unlock the door, and in the event of a mains failure, the door is locked). Installed via NO1/COM (CAT5e to the lock) and was able to open the door via the door station with no external power supply required. Door config in Hikvision is 'always closed.'

So in summary (a) avoid using an AC lock unless you have a separate power supply for it, and (b) if you plan on wanting to unlock the door via the door station, ensure the amps on the electric strike is below the 1000 milliamps that is supported to allow the unlock from the door station. Cheers.

i have the same issue, which lock did you buy?

 

[JP123]

i have the same issue, which lock did you buy?

I went with this lock, primarily because I had the exact same lock but was AC powered, and I needed to ensure (physically) the new lock was identical to fit inside the existing lock fitting.

Adams Rite 7100-310-628 | Electric Strike 12V DC Fail Locked SAA

Adams Rite 7100-310-628 | Electric Strike 12V DC Fail Locked SAA This electric strike from Adams Rite is used for remote access with the 4700 series (or similar) range of dead latchs. The door lock is engineered with stainless steel for strength and security. This means that it is UL Listed...

doorentrydirect.com

So I swapped model 7100-340-628 (AC) with 7100-310-628 (DC). Did this and the problem went away. Ensure you shop around, I picked mine up from eBay.

Cheers.