Any comments about the purchase of a PoE switch. I read many articles about both and I'm looking for some advice/suggestions. I will be using BI and between 6-8 cameras. Are smart switches worth the extra money or does BI have their functions built into the software such as remote camera reboot etc.? Are managed switch's the same as smart switches? Looking for an 8, useable, port switch for the cameras. Thanks Bentley
PoE switch/smart switch
- Thread starter Bentley
- Start date
fenderman
Staff member
- Mar 9, 2014
- 36,891
- 21,407
You may be better off with two 4 port poe switches..http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SF...TF8&qid=1433090440&sr=8-1&keywords=poe+switch
As far as managed switches, they are more complex to setup than standard switches (for example some come set to fixed ip address - so you need to connect them to your pc first etc..)..
This is my go to managed switch, though it will only support 7 cameras, its fanless...http://www.amazon.com/Fanless-Manag...433090997&sr=8-15&keywords=managed+poe+switch
While blue iris may be able to reboot some cameras it cannot reboot a camera that will not respond to commands...Honestly I have never had to remotely reboot a camera...dont use junk cameras and you wont have this issue..its nice to have this function available if your cameras are in a remote location, but for the home, its not needed.
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The TP Link model that Fenderman recommended is the one I've had my eye on as well. Great reviews, and not too expensive.
Optimus Prime
Getting the hang of it
- Sep 29, 2014
- 282
- 30
Do y'all have thoughts on this one? I was considering mounting it in the attic (Plano, TX)
http://find-a-poe.com/product/WS-GPOES-8-7/
http://find-a-poe.com/product/WS-GPOES-8-7/
I know I am replying to my own comment, but I had this thing installed in less than one minute. Works great. I put a thermometer next to it to monitor the temperature since it's in the garage.
I did purchase the switch that Mr. F recommended, managed switch. Great switch and a bit of a challenge to install but not that complicated. if you have a simple system its not necessary to purchase this switch and you could save a bit of money buying unmanaged switch as he suggests. As far as temperatures are concerned anything installed in an attic is subject to premature failure. The Temperature at my house today was 106 degrees what do you think the temp.in the attic is? HEAT and electronics don't mix. Mr. Fenderman knows what he's talking about listen to his advice. I should have but more complicated electronics can be fun to install if you have patience and a few extra bucks and of course Mr. F.
maybe but i don't think so. Manufactures suggested temp ranges are in controlled environments. Nothing works well in 100 plus degree temps. Well maybe camels. If you do succeed with a switch at these temperatures please let others know what switch you used and maximum temperature in which the switch survived and how long.
I will mate. I don't have much of an option. I won't install A/C in the garage just for a switch. We'll have to see how long it lasts.
OldStyle, any updates on what kind of temps the switch is seeing and functioning at? I've got a D-link [FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]DGS-1008P 8 port (4port PoE) gigabit switch that was left from another project that I plan to put in an non insulated detached garage in Northwest Florida heat and humidity. Only temperature/humidity control in the garage is a AO Smith voltex heat pump hot water heater that is about a 0.5ton unit. Cuts down a good bit of humidity, but the afternoon temps are a bit over 100 [/FONT]˚F [FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif](A few 105-110 [/FONT]˚F[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif] temps) inside the garage. Typically it will run 5-15 [/FONT]˚F[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif] over OAT. Humidity in the garage typically stays under 75-80% RH due to the HPWH. Specs of the switch seem like the switch itself should handle the temps, but the external power supply (and an APC back-UPS with the same max operating temp) could be an issue. Only thing I could think would be to get a 48V DC power supply that can handle high temps such as something rated for outdoors and let it ride without a UPS. Mounting all of this in conditioned air is not really an option even though I would prefer it. I've had good luck with non-PoE switches from D-link in very hot/humid environments and even functioning after flood water rinsed them out for several hours....
Specs on the switch are:
[/FONT]Operating Temperature
Specs on the switch are:
[/FONT]Operating Temperature
- ƒƒDevice:
- ƒƒ0 to 50 ˚C (32 to 122 ˚F)
- ƒƒExternal Power Adapter:
- ƒƒ0 to 40 ˚C (32 to 104 ˚F)
- ƒƒ0% to 95% RH non-condensing
Guys,
I had a question, if I buy one of those NVRs with a single Ethernet port that supports 16 cameras, do you guys buy multiple 8 port PoE switches to hook them up? I was looking at 16 port PoE switches but the only problem is that if I hook up all 16 to the PoE switch, then I won't able to hook it up to the same network as the Ethernet port? I need to setup the cameras on the same network as what's on the network interface on the NVR, otherwise my NVR won't able to to communicate to the cameras and also I will need it to view it with my phone. All the bandwidth is going through that single network port.
I was thinking of getting a Hikvision NVR and it sounds like from the forums, it's better to get a NON poe enabled NVR and buy a separate switch for the cameras alone. It seems hard to find any 18 port (if they exist) for a 16 channel camera setup? Should I just get a 24port or multiple smaller ones to join?
Thanks!
I had a question, if I buy one of those NVRs with a single Ethernet port that supports 16 cameras, do you guys buy multiple 8 port PoE switches to hook them up? I was looking at 16 port PoE switches but the only problem is that if I hook up all 16 to the PoE switch, then I won't able to hook it up to the same network as the Ethernet port? I need to setup the cameras on the same network as what's on the network interface on the NVR, otherwise my NVR won't able to to communicate to the cameras and also I will need it to view it with my phone. All the bandwidth is going through that single network port.
I was thinking of getting a Hikvision NVR and it sounds like from the forums, it's better to get a NON poe enabled NVR and buy a separate switch for the cameras alone. It seems hard to find any 18 port (if they exist) for a 16 channel camera setup? Should I just get a 24port or multiple smaller ones to join?
Thanks!
nayr
IPCT Contributor
I think you'll be fine, Ive had switches and access points running in attics that surely got alot hotter than your garage for years and years.
in fact this last winter I was arranging xmas decorations in the attic and found an old access point still attached to some trusses.. it had to been 10 years old by now and not used for like 6 years, brought it down and it powered up just fine.. tosed it in the parts bin to be used for scrap components.
it'll survive fine.. the most sensitive part will be the flash chip and that survived a reflow oven (~230C) for a short time when it was soldered together.. just put it and its power brick some place they can breath so they dont build up heat until melt down.
in fact this last winter I was arranging xmas decorations in the attic and found an old access point still attached to some trusses.. it had to been 10 years old by now and not used for like 6 years, brought it down and it powered up just fine.. tosed it in the parts bin to be used for scrap components.
it'll survive fine.. the most sensitive part will be the flash chip and that survived a reflow oven (~230C) for a short time when it was soldered together.. just put it and its power brick some place they can breath so they dont build up heat until melt down.
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So far, so good. It has been over 100F for two weeks straight in my garage and the switch has not missed a beat.
I used TP-LINK TL-SG1008P for 4 Hikvision cameras with no problems even though it was in the attic (max temp I measured was ~125°F) I just replaced it with Ubiquiti TOUGHSwitch (TS-8-PRO) since I needed more POE ports. TOUGHSwitch is also rated for -25 to 55°C (-13 to 131° F)
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I live down the road in Richadson, Tx, sure does get hot in that attic this time of year. I don't know anything about that switch or how well they will withstand the heat.
Hi, if the cameras are truly PoE - then this is a lower cost, very rugged PoE switch http://find-a-poe.com/product/WS-POES-8-7-48v60w/ - it only uses 2 watts itself, so it needs no cooling, and can operate in tough environments.
if the cameras are similar to the Foscam W type (non PoE) then you will need an Injector / Splitter kit that is rated for any distance up to 328 ft, here is a kit for 6 cameras with 5v for example: http://find-a-poe.com/product/WS-POES-5v-6x/
if the cameras are similar to the Foscam W type (non PoE) then you will need an Injector / Splitter kit that is rated for any distance up to 328 ft, here is a kit for 6 cameras with 5v for example: http://find-a-poe.com/product/WS-POES-5v-6x/