New Reolink Wired POE Doorbell Cam ?

[TheWaterbug]

and if I max out the brightness and contras the background is washed out:

View attachment 192680

I'll leave it this way, because I care about the faces, and the Amcrest cameras are recording the background anyway.

But Reolink really should add a backlight compensation feature.

Here's this morning's "normal" capture, e.g. he's not deliberately staring into the camera. Face is definitely recognizable, but the IQ is not great. Lots of noise and compression crush, despite 4096 kbps main stream.

 

[TheWaterbug]

Thanks! Following up on this. Purchased the Kerui-521 (dual pack) off amazon and they work perfectly. Just for kicks I also tried pairing the included doorbell to the reolink chime and it works as well. The included doorbell and the reolink doorbell can be paired simultaneously to the Kerui and reolink branded chimes. This tells me that you could most likely pair two reolink doorbells to the same chime as well. I currently have 3 chimes (1 reolink, 2 Kerui) , so that the entire house is covered, paired to the reolink and Kerui doorbell working perfectly. The 521's have many more built in sounds if that is something you are particular about. I'm sure there are other 433mhz chimes that will pair as well if anyone wants to test.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C3V23J94?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Thanks!

My office is two floors, and I confirmed this morning that I can definitely not hear the chime downstairs when I'm upstairs. But the guys downstairs heard it. All 10 times.

I'm also buying another doorbell for the side door, so I bought 2 of those Kerui 521 sets. The two-pack doesn't seem to be available any more, but for $10/each, it's not a big deal. Except that I hate generating waste, especially electronic waste.

 

[TheWaterbug]

My second Reolink doorbell is going here, replacing this peephole:





This will prevent me having to drill through a really heavy steel door frame.

 

[TheWaterbug]

Not my prettiest installation, nor my ugliest. But it's a warehouse, so aesthetics aren't as important as the for the front door:





Here's our FedEx driver ringing the bell:

 

[David L]

Not my prettiest installation, nor my ugliest. But it's a warehouse, so aesthetics aren't as important as the for the front door:

View attachment 192753

View attachment 192754

Here's our FedEx driver ringing the bell:

View attachment 192755

Don't forget to put a Doorbell on the bathroom door...haha

 

[TonyR]

This will prevent me having to drill through a really heavy steel door frame.

...or a tilt-up wall with at least 6" of concrete with steel inside of it to meet CA earthquake requirements.

I spent 29 years in N. CA's "Silicon Valley" where the concrete "tilt-up" buildings were commonplace for commercial buildings since early 70's.

 

[TonyR]

Not my prettiest installation, nor my ugliest. But it's a warehouse, so aesthetics aren't as important as the for the front door:

View attachment 192753

View attachment 192754

Here's our FedEx driver ringing the bell:

View attachment 192755

Wait until @Arjun finds his 15° down-tilt shim for his Reolink and he can turn you onto one for your back door!

 

[Arjun]

I'm debating between 10 degrees and 15 degrees, will it make much of a difference? The way I have this mounted presently for the front door - there is a very tight tolerance, lol

Wait until @Arjun finds his 15° down-tilt shim for his Reolink and he can turn you onto one for your back door!

 

[David L]

I'm debating between 10 degrees and 15 degrees, will it make much of a difference? The way I have this mounted presently for the front door - there is a very tight tolerance, lol

Do like I did, get a longer screw for the top screw and put a temporary wedge (carpenter pencil) in-between the wall and the mount then you will know what degrees you need. I remember putting as many a 2 carpenter pencils. You can take one of the screws with you to Home Depot to find a longer one.

 

[TheWaterbug]

Not my prettiest installation, nor my ugliest. But it's a warehouse, so aesthetics aren't as important as the for the front door:

View attachment 192753

View attachment 192754

Here's our FedEx driver ringing the bell:

View attachment 192755

I should note that I'm using the wedge, because the Doorbell Camera is centered on the door, and the doorknob is on the side. Seems to work pretty well.

 

[TheWaterbug]

Ok, I've read through the entire thread, and I don't think I've seen the answer to this:

If I'm viewing my BI server via UI3, is there any way to have a "visitor" event (e.g. doorbell button press) cause selected logged-in UI3 users to switch over to this particular camera?

I have an office full of non-technical users, and I've slowly trained them all to use UI3 to watch the cameras.

I'm also thinking of passing around an iPad that's running single-app mode for UI3,.

 

[TheWaterbug]

Electricians visited today to run Cat-6 to my Reolink WiFi doorbell. Much like the Hikvision and EzViz doorbells before it, the WiFi performance/stability was seriously bad. The front exterior wall is wood planks over wood studs, the interior is drywall. Nothing there to inhibit the WiFi signal strength, whatsoever. Yet all three pieces of hardware would drop the WiFi signal multiple times daily. I moved the WiFi access point multiple times, yielding no improvement whatsoever. I think the original Hikvision would fail less than five times every day. The EzViz would fail thirty and forty times daily. This Reolink was about 50/50 on staying connected or not. Rather than buying and installing a new Reolink PoE doorbell, I got Ethernet cable run to the RJ-45 Ethernet jack present on the WiFi doorbell. A few configuration changes, a few doorbell reboots, and a few router reboots later, and it's now finally running with a rock-solid wired connection.

Yup. I installed an Arlo WiFi doorbell for my parents, and it was terrible, despite the WAP being less than 20' away through a wooden door and drywall.

So I replaced it with a Netgear WiFi doorbell, and it sucks just as badly. My parents hear "Connected to network" 20x a day.

If the doorbell wiring weren't stapled down I'd use it to pull some Cat5e and buy another POE doorbell.

 

[tangent]

Ok, I've read through the entire thread, and I don't think I've seen the answer to this:

If I'm viewing my BI server via UI3, is there any way to have a "visitor" event (e.g. doorbell button press) cause selected logged-in UI3 users to switch over to this particular camera?

I have an office full of non-technical users, and I've slowly trained them all to use UI3 to watch the cameras.

I'm also thinking of passing around an iPad that's running single-app mode for UI3,.

Not sure about Blue Iris, but you can via Home Assistant and could use that to trigger Blue Iris if you can't do it directly.

Reolink IP NVR/camera

Instructions on how to integrate Reolink devices (NVR/cameras) into Home Assistant.

www.home-assistant.io

 

[David L]

Ok, I've read through the entire thread, and I don't think I've seen the answer to this:

If I'm viewing my BI server via UI3, is there any way to have a "visitor" event (e.g. doorbell button press) cause selected logged-in UI3 users to switch over to this particular camera?

I have an office full of non-technical users, and I've slowly trained them all to use UI3 to watch the cameras.

I'm also thinking of passing around an iPad that's running single-app mode for UI3,.

So I do not have UI3 switch over to a camera when triggered, maybe the BI App can, not sure, but what I do have is UI3 sorted by Person triggers so you know when someone is there. I don't use UI3 for notifications, Home Assistant handles that for me. Are you running CPAI in BI? That helps in getting Person triggers, it is not perfect, you will get big bugs that Identify as a person, according to AI LOL, I love using the word Identify now, haha...

In Home Assistant, I have both my wife's and my phone getting notices. We get notices when the doorbell rings (Visitor), when a Person triggers motion, even I have HA give each of us a notice if one of us is not home (Out of Geo Area). You could do the same with Home Assistant and with your employees phones...

 

[TheWaterbug]

I'm also buying another doorbell for the side door, so I bought 2 of those Kerui 521 sets. The two-pack doesn't seem to be available any more, but for $10/each, it's not a big deal. Except that I hate generating waste, especially electronic waste.

Hmm. My Kerui M521 chimes arrived today, and I cannot get them paired. So I have two Reolink POE doorbells, each already factory-paired with their respective Reolink chimes, and I'm trying to add one Kerui chime to each of those.

I have tried both methods, e.g. from the app and from pressing the button on the Reolink doorbell, and it does not appear to chime.

I'm plugging in the Kerui chimes, pressing the "gear" button until it makes a noise (typically 3-4 seconds, and then I hold until I've reached the specified 5 seconds, and then release), and then either pressing the doorbell button or pressing Next in the app.

Neither procedure results in a paired chime on either doorbell.

 

[TheWaterbug]

As an additional frustration, pressing Test in the Chime section of the Reolink app always results in the Reolink chime playing the City Bird sound, regardless of which sound I've selected for that chime. Seriously?

Test should test the setting that's currently set!!

 

[TheWaterbug]

Hmm. My Kerui M521 chimes arrived today, and I cannot get them paired.

Uh oh. This Reddit thread suggests that the newer Reolink doorbells units are now using 900 MHz RF to connect to chimes, linking out to this Home Assistant thread with more details:

This guide is only for the original Reolink Doorbell. “V2” devices appear to use a 900MHz instead of 433MHz frequency to communicate with their chime, which is incompatible. If anyone knows of similar programmable “900MHz” smart devices, please post a link so I can add it to the guide.

Anyone know how my two units' reported "Hardware No. DB_566128M5MP_P" from the Reolink web UI maps to this version number?