IVS on but Bugs and Lights Still Trigger Motion

teaser7

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I have IVS rule turned on (intrusion mode), but at night, bugs and lights still trigger motion. Is this normal? I did some searches in this forum and most of you said with AI IVS turned on, you virtually get zero false alerts. I want that! One person said to make sure to turn off "motion detection". When I do that, nothing is captured (not even a person walking through the intrusion area).

I tried 2 sets of settings:
Set 1
  • IVS On
  • Motion Detection On
  • Smart Motion Detection On (Human checked)
  • Results: Getting all kinds of false alerts at night with bugs and lights
Set 2
  • IVS On
  • Motion Detection Off
  • Smart Motion Detection Off
  • Results: Getting zero captures

The camera in question is T5442TM-AS 6mm. My NVR is the Lorex N882 (which I think is a Dahua with different firmware since it plugs and plays with all of Andy's cameras).

Smart Plan.JPG

IVS Settings.JPG

IVS Rule.JPG

Motion Detection Off.JPG
 

wittaj

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No that is not normal.

With cameras with AI like this one, it is best to use IVS with AI ONLY and not MD/SMD.

Using MD/SMD will result in false triggers.

Are you making the settings in the camera GUI itself or the NVR?

Are you on default/auto settings?

You should change the zig-zags to the other way going vertically. An object has to go half thru a line before it triggers, so that could be problematic.

Also try an intrusion box instead of tripwires.
 

teaser7

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Thanks wittaj. The settings are done in the camera GUI itself. Can you explain more what you mean by default/auto settings?

I will try changing the zig-zags vertically as well as using the intrusion box to see if will help. Will report back.
 

wittaj

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Is the shutter/exposure on auto/default or did you set the shutter speed to custom?

Are all the parameters like brightness, contrast, sharpness, Noise Reduction, etc. set on the default 50?

I think vertical and/or intrusion will work better.


In terms of getting the most out of the camera, here is my "standard" post that many use as a start for dialing in day and night that helps get the clean captures and help the camera recognize people and cars.

Start with:

H264
8192 bitrate
CBR
15FPS
15 iframes

Every field of view is different, but I have found you need contrast to usually be 6-8 higher than the brightness number at night.

We want the ability to freeze frame capture a clean image from the video at night, and that is only done with a shutter of 1/60 or faster. At night, default/auto may be on 1/12s shutter or worse to make the image bright.

In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important parameters and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.

Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-4ms exposure and 0-30 gain (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared or white light.

Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night static image results in Casper blur and ghost during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

In the daytime, if it is still too bright, then drop the 4ms down to 3ms then 2ms, etc. You have to play with it for your field of view.

Then at night, if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.

You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image. But try not to go above 70 for anything and try to have contrast be at least 7-10 digits higher than brightness.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.

Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.

After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
 

teaser7

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Yeah, the problem is I'm not getting any captures even during the day, like right now. I customized the shutter and exposure settings. Believe me, I've used your standard posts regularly and it has helped tremendously. I will try changing the box and do vertical.
 

wittaj

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In that case, it is the type of IVS lines.

Can that NVR accept the specific triggers from IVS?

Do you have an SD card in the camera to confirm whether the camera is actually triggering but not making it to the NVR?
 

teaser7

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Good idea. I will try the SD card. I'm suspecting the NVR is not accepting triggers from the camera IVS. Bummer.
 

teaser7

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I figured out what the issue was. In the NVR option under "Schedule", I have to set the schedule (time of day, etc.) for "Smart Motion" for it to record. Everything is working now.
 
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