Identify This Connector

Teken

Teken

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Aug 11, 2020
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I have a wiring harness from a APC SMX UPS system. Two of the connectors need to be replaced and for the life of me can’t identify the exact brand / type!

If your Google Fu is strong I’d appreciate whatever the members can find. I’ll load up the pictures in a moment as Tapatalk doesn’t allow multiple images with a standard account.

This is the terminal connector with the plastic insulator:

g13QdfE.jpg


The other side to get a better idea of what this looks like:

5NPofwI.jpg


An image of the actual metal terminal connector. This type has a center tip that locks the connector to the battery terminal block:

XHvLpQb.jpg


I looked all over the Anderson website but nothing comes up for this specific model of wire terminal connector. :banghead:
 
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Teken said:
I have a wiring harness from a APC SMX UPS system. Two of the connectors need to be replaced and for the life of me can’t identify the exact brand / type!

If your Google Fu is strong I’d appreciate whatever the members can find. I’ll load up the pictures in a moment as Tapatalk doesn’t allow multiple images with a standard account.

This is the terminal connector with the plastic insulator:

g13QdfE.jpg


The other side to get a better idea of what this looks like:

5NPofwI.jpg


An image of the actual metal terminal connector. This type has a center tip that locks the connector to the battery terminal block:

XHvLpQb.jpg


I looked all over the Anderson website but nothing comes up for this specific model of wire terminal connector. :banghead:
Click to expand...
That is a crimp-on female spade connector. Any auto parts store should have one of those. They are a friction fit.
 
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Smilingreen said:
That is a crimp-on female spade connector. Any auto parts store should have one of those. They are a friction fit.
Click to expand...

Correct, but do you know what the specific model / brand this would be?!? I know its a little hard to tell how big this is but this connector and its plastic insulator is much thicker and larger than a standard one.
 
+1 for the crimp-on female spade connector ID

If I'm not mistaken, the receiver currently crimped to the black wire has a spade connector in it, and needs to be removed if you still wish to use the black lead
 
Smilingreen said:
What gauge is your wire?
Click to expand...

I believe its a 10 AWG and found that specific connector under Little Fuse on DigiKey / Mouser. The plastic insulator for whatever reason doesn't come up and would have thought it would come with them??? :banghead:
 
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Teken said:
I believe its a 10 AWG and found that specific connector under Little Fuse on DigiKey / Mouser. The plastic insulator for whatever reason doesn't come up and would have thought it would come with them??? :banghead:
Click to expand...
All of their cables are auto stripped and crimp connected by machine. The problem with Schneider is they are a French company, so they source all of their parts and assemblies globally. The wire with the connector attached may come from the US with US made components (doubtful), but the protective sleeve that goes over it may be sourced in China or Germany. The company I work for builds products for Schneider. We have had some of our lines shut down for over 2 months because 1 particular size and rated fuse comes from China and it is stuck on a container ship out in the Pacific. They won't substitute a different fuse.
 
Smilingreen said:
All of their cables are auto stripped and crimp connected by machine. The problem with Schneider is they are a French company, so they source all of their parts and assemblies globally. The wire with the connector attached may come from the US with US made components (doubtful), but the protective sleeve that goes over it may be sourced in China or Germany. The company I work for builds products for Schneider. We have had some of our lines shut down for over 2 months because 1 particular size and rated fuse comes from China and it is stuck on a container ship out in the Pacific. They won't substitute a different fuse.
Click to expand...

I can relate as the reason I'm asking for this specific terminal connector / insulator is there is going to be an audit. I have dozens and dozens of similar terminal connectors but none of them are even close to the shear gauge and thickness of the one that came with the UPS.

Normally if this was about voltage I would have applied several layers of 600 volt marine grade heat shrink. But, this isn't about voltage its about burn through due to high current and as you can see that nylon cover is easily ten times thicker than any standard automotive terminal connector.
 
Amazon has some kits that for a moment really made me happy until I saw none of them are single terminals. :facepalm: Comes with the nylon cover which by eye appears to be the standard thickness vs the paper thin heat shrink type:

580Pcs 2.8mm Pitch 2 3 4 6 9 Pin Wire Connectors Housing Terminal, Male/Female Plug Housing and Pin Header Crimp Wire Terminals Connector Assortment Kit for Motorcycle, Bike, Car, Boats : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

580Pcs 2.8mm Pitch 2 3 4 6 9 Pin Wire Connectors Housing Terminal, Male/Female Plug Housing and Pin Header Crimp Wire Terminals Connector Assortment Kit for Motorcycle, Bike, Car, Boats : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.ca

If anyone finds something on Amazon or other please do share the link . . .
 
Teken said:
Can you get a better picture (close up) it looks very similar if not exact.
Click to expand...
It was a picture I found on e-bay in the search engine. But when I went to the page, it must have been for an old auction.
 
Smilingreen said:
It was a picture I found on e-bay in the search engine. But when I went to the page, it must have been for an old auction.
Click to expand...

I did too and if I only needed one buying one of those cable assemblies would probably end this whole drama. But, I need to make about 16 ~ 22 of these so would really like to be able to just buy the terminal and connector. :(
 
Well, if your wire is truly #10, you can get yourself out of a pickle by clipping both the old male end and female end off and crimping on matched sets of yellow insulated M/F spade connectors. The yellow is rated for #12-#10. Home Depot, Lowes, etc. should have these in packs of 10 or 25. Make sure you have a decent set of crimpers rated for insulted terminal connectors. The ratcheting types are the best. Best of luck to you.

17563-description-5-l1.jpg
 
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Smilingreen said:
Well, if your wire is truly #10, you can get yourself out of a pickle by clipping both the old male end and female end off and crimping on matched sets of yellow insulated M/F spade connectors. The yellow is rated for #12-#10. Home Depot, Lowes, etc. should have these in packs of 10 or 25. Make sure you have a decent set of crimpers rated for insulted terminal connectors. The ratcheting types are the best. Best of luck to you.
Click to expand...

That would be something I could do in a pinch but that doesn't solve the problem of needing the actual connectors / terminals. Some are corroded while others melted off in a battery fire.

So, I really need to make the terminal connections . . .
 
In my experience Molex tend to do all sorts of crimp terminals, covers, plugs ECT and it looks like something they would do. Usually the cover will slide over an un-insulated terminal with a barb that locks the 2 parts together. You will likely have to buy the terminals and the covers to match separately and be prepared to break out the soldering iron. If your making hundreds of these things it would make sense to invest in their tooling for a neat job.They also do extractors to remove connectors from the cover. See links to get you started.

Good luck

94090-5320 | Molex 1 Way Nylon Crimp Terminal Housing, 6.35mm Tab Size, Natural | RS

uk.rs-online.com uk.rs-online.com

 
I believe the battery manufacturers typically call those "F" connectors.
@Smilingreen posted in #17 what I was going to recommend.

Something like this?


Here ya go . . .

Terminal Type | The Difference Between F1 and F2 Tabs

Knowledge Base Article discussing the difference a very common terminal type: the F1 and F2 tabs. Sealed Lead Acid batteries for deep cycle applications such alarms, security systems, and wheelchairs use batteries with these type of terminals.
www.batterystuff.com www.batterystuff.com
 
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