Has anyone heard of Eclipse Cams/NVR?

[Prof3ssorblu]

Hello all,

As the title says, has anyone heard of Eclipse brand of camera and NVR? I received a quote from a local installer for Eclipse:ESG-IPTS4F2 cameras and Eclipse:ESG-NVR16P-4B NVR. I tried searching for them here and on the web but didnt find a lot of information on them. From pictures, it looks like rebanded Uniview cams but I am not sure.

Has anyone heard or use them? Im leaning towards Andy's IPC-T5442T-ZE cam and NVR5208/16-8P-4KS2E NVR but not sure how these compare. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Here is some information on the devices:

Eclipse:ESG-IPTS4F2
Advanced Key Features
• Super wide angle fixed lens – 2.8mm
• H.265/H.264 Compression
• True Wide Dynamic Range (120dB)
• Built-in IR Illumination (40m/131ft)
Advanced Mechanical Design
• Wide temperature range (-22°F to 140°F)
• IP67 weather resistant
• Rugged metal housing
Advanced Functionality
• Starlight Illumination
• Built-In Intelligent Video Analytics
• ONVIF compliant
• Remote access (PC, iOS, Android)
• 2KV surge protected network interface

ESG-NVR16P-4B NVR
Key Features:
Advanced Performance
• 160Mbps throughput
• H.265/H.264 compression
• Record up to 4K/8MP resolutions
• Smart Search
Advanced Mechanical Design
• 16 on-board PoE Ports
• 4 HDD Drive Bays (40TB max)
• Extend PoE cabling distance up to 900ft
• 4K HDMI video output
Advanced Functionality
• ONVIF compliant
• Remote access (PC, iOS, Android)
• Alarm I/O (16 in, 4 out)
• P2P for easy network setup

 

[TonyR]

The cam's specs say it has a 1/3" sensor which is dismal for a 4MP cam; Andy's IPC-T5442T-ZE is a 1/1.8" so it's 60% bigger; bigger sensor, better night performance.

 

[wittaj]

Looks like way overpriced gear a local installer would sell.

Andy's stuff is better in every important category, including cost. From the pointed out sensor size of the camera, to the bandwidth of the NVR. Hands down Andy's equipment wins.

 

[sebastiantombs]

A "super wide 2.8mm lens" will give you wonderful, sweeping panorama views...but are useless for identification purposes any further than about 15 feet away from the camera. That 15 feet also assumes a full on face view, not looking down from 12 feet up on an eave or wall.

 

[garycrist]

@Prof3ssorblu, How much of the install do you want to do? How many cams?
People here will help and save you some bucks.

 

[Prof3ssorblu]

@Prof3ssorblu, How much of the install do you want to do? How many cams?
People here will help and save you some bucks.

I don’t mind some of the install but will admit not the most handiest person….my big concern is the wiring since i have a two story house…the few people that would give me a quote was saying how difficult of job it is since I don’t really really have an attic and how my house is designed. Im ok with technology and sure I could figure out the setup of the actual Nvr and cameras once the wiring is done

 

[garycrist]

Ahhh, wiring, the bane of some! Take a picture or a clip of your house from you favorite website and post of what we have to work with.

A POE switch in a waterproof enclosure outside, with the network cables with waterproof glands is one option. Only 1 wall penetration,
(like the satellite dish coax) would be required. Ready made outdoor rated cables are plug and play (ha ha ha). A long masonry drill bit for
about $30-$50 and some DIELECTRIC GREASE for the outside connectors.

How is this for a starter?

 

[Prof3ssorblu]

You mean the clip of the inside or outside of the house?

I read what you wrote but honestly most of it went over my head lol

 

[garycrist]

1. Mount NVR and power supply for a POE switch in the house.
2. drill hole in the wall to pass 1 network cable and the power supply cable for the switch.
3. Fill hole with exterior silicone caulk.
4. Put POE switch in waterproof box.
5. Mount cameras and grease the network connectors by filling them up (almost) with dielectric grease.
6. Run network cables from POE switch to cameras.
7. Secure network cables with cable clamps or if temporary, staple a zip tie to the eves to hold cables.
8. Enjoy an adult beverage are one sits down and you are done.

Also, configure cams and bench test system before starting. Cables may be disguised by painting cables
with a spray can of plastic paint.

More Qs?

 

[Prof3ssorblu]

That definitely made more sense! Thank you for that

 

[wittaj]

Care to share the quote on how much this was for how many cameras?

So they want to install 2.8mm cameras on the 2nd story soffit?

Take the knowledge of the folks here so you don't make the same mistake!

I started with four 2.8mm cameras and I was like "I can place one on each corner of the house and see my whole property and the whole neighborhood." A newbie loves the wide angle "I can see the whole neighborhood" of the 2.8mm fixed wide angle lens.

It is easy to get lured in to thinking the wide angle "see the whole neighborhood" because you are watching it and you see a neighbor go by and you are like "Look at that I can tell that is Heather out walking." and "Yeah I can tell our neighbor 4 down just passed by". Or you watch back the video of you walking around and are like "yeah I can tell that is me".

Little do we realize how much WE can identify a known person just by hair style, clothing, walking pace, gait, etc.

Then one day the door checker comes by. Total stranger. Totally useless video other than what time the door checking happened.

Then you realize that this wide-angle see the whole neighborhood comes at a cost and that cost is not being able to IDENTIFY who did it. These 2.8mm wide angle cameras are great overview cameras or to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet of the camera. At 40 feet out you need a different camera.

And most stick these wide angle cameras on the 2nd story to be able to see even more, which then means any IDENTIFY distance is lost vertically. Someone needs to be within 10-13 feet to identify someone with a 2.8mm lens. A camera placed 16-20 feet up means the entire IDENTIFY is lost in the vertical direction. You will get a good shot at the top of the head and hat though LOL.

So then we start adding more cameras and varifocal cameras so that we can optically zoom in to pinch points and other areas of interest to get the clean IDENTIFY captures of someone. While the varifocals are great at helping to identify at a distance, they come at a cost of a reduced field of view, just like the wide-angles are great at seeing a wide area, but they come at the expense of IDENTIFY at distance.

 

[Prof3ssorblu]

Care to share the quote on how much this was for how many cameras?

So they want to install 2.8mm cameras on the 2nd story soffit?

Take the knowledge of the folks here so you don't make the same mistake!

I started with four 2.8mm cameras and I was like "I can place one on each corner of the house and see my whole property and the whole neighborhood." A newbie loves the wide angle "I can see the whole neighborhood" of the 2.8mm fixed wide angle lens.

It is easy to get lured in to thinking the wide angle "see the whole neighborhood" because you are watching it and you see a neighbor go by and you are like "Look at that I can tell that is Heather out walking." and "Yeah I can tell our neighbor 4 down just passed by". Or you watch back the video of you walking around and are like "yeah I can tell that is me".

Little do we realize how much WE can identify a known person just by hair style, clothing, walking pace, gait, etc.

Then one day the door checker comes by. Total stranger. Totally useless video other than what time the door checking happened.

Then you realize that this wide-angle see the whole neighborhood comes at a cost and that cost is not being able to IDENTIFY who did it. These 2.8mm wide angle cameras are great overview cameras or to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet of the camera. At 40 feet out you need a different camera.

And most stick these wide angle cameras on the 2nd story to be able to see even more, which then means any IDENTIFY distance is lost vertically. Someone needs to be within 10-13 feet to identify someone with a 2.8mm lens. A camera placed 16-20 feet up means the entire IDENTIFY is lost in the vertical direction. You will get a good shot at the top of the head and hat though LOL.

So then we start adding more cameras and varifocal cameras so that we can optically zoom in to pinch points and other areas of interest to get the clean IDENTIFY captures of someone. While the varifocals are great at helping to identify at a distance, they come at a cost of a reduced field of view, just like the wide-angles are great at seeing a wide area, but they come at the expense of IDENTIFY at distance.

Care to share the quote on how much this was for how many cameras?

So they want to install 2.8mm cameras on the 2nd story soffit?

Take the knowledge of the folks here so you don't make the same mistake!

I started with four 2.8mm cameras and I was like "I can place one on each corner of the house and see my whole property and the whole neighborhood." A newbie loves the wide angle "I can see the whole neighborhood" of the 2.8mm fixed wide angle lens.

It is easy to get lured in to thinking the wide angle "see the whole neighborhood" because you are watching it and you see a neighbor go by and you are like "Look at that I can tell that is Heather out walking." and "Yeah I can tell our neighbor 4 down just passed by". Or you watch back the video of you walking around and are like "yeah I can tell that is me".

Little do we realize how much WE can identify a known person just by hair style, clothing, walking pace, gait, etc.

Then one day the door checker comes by. Total stranger. Totally useless video other than what time the door checking happened.

Then you realize that this wide-angle see the whole neighborhood comes at a cost and that cost is not being able to IDENTIFY who did it. These 2.8mm wide angle cameras are great overview cameras or to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet of the camera. At 40 feet out you need a different camera.

And most stick these wide angle cameras on the 2nd story to be able to see even more, which then means any IDENTIFY distance is lost vertically. Someone needs to be within 10-13 feet to identify someone with a 2.8mm lens. A camera placed 16-20 feet up means the entire IDENTIFY is lost in the vertical direction. You will get a good shot at the top of the head and hat though LOL.

So then we start adding more cameras and varifocal cameras so that we can optically zoom in to pinch points and other areas of interest to get the clean IDENTIFY captures of someone. While the varifocals are great at helping to identify at a distance, they come at a cost of a reduced field of view, just like the wide-angles are great at seeing a wide area, but they come at the expense of IDENTIFY at distance.

This one for for $5500 to 8 ip cameras, an NVR, backup battery, and conduit for the install….of the quotes I got so far I am averaging about $200/camera to install. His ip cameras were a little more than Andy’s but his NVR was like $700 ( have no idea way). Definitely going with Andy’s gear now.

Everyone is installing them on the first floor soffit but they have different ways to get they wires to the Nvr since I don’t havean attic that allows them to go front to back to place the wire. I was originally looking for 4 cameras (2-3 up front and one in the back so that is what most quoted me for and they were around 2500 (but with inferior products). This last one was the only one looking at my house and showing me how he can get 6-8 cameras to the Nvr so I would have all 4 sides of my house covered.

Thanks for your post, it definitely helped and made sense

 

[wittaj]

Yeah, $200ish per drop seems to be the going rate in a lot of parts for the wiring. The overall price isn't too bad, but they are overpriced devices with poor capacity.

Lot's of ways to get wiring to them. Some are creative. As someone said, do not be opposed to an outdoor switch and get creative on how to run the wires.

Use outdoor rated cable and run it up behind downspouts, put in conduit, bury in landscaping to get to the other side of the house, etc. Some here have even opened up walls inside to be able to get the wiring where it needs to go.

Try to run as much as you can and the bring in a low volt wiring installer for that one or two difficult one.

 

[samplenhold]

A POE switch in a waterproof enclosure outside, with the network cables with waterproof glands is one option. Only 1 wall penetration,
(like the satellite dish coax) would be required. Ready made outdoor rated cables are plug and play (ha ha ha). A long masonry drill bit for
about $30-$50 and some DIELECTRIC GREASE for the outside connectors.

Realize that this method is running the wiring on the outside of the home. Depending on the style of the house and the WAF, you/her may not be happy with the look of that wire/conduit on the outside of the house.

If you post a few photos of the outside ot your house, folks may be able to give you some insights on running options.

 

[samplenhold]

Also, don't abandon the idea of buying the equipment and getting a guy to run the wires only. You do the hook ups.

 

[Prof3ssorblu]

Realize that this method is running the wiring on the outside of the home. Depending on the style of the house and the WAF, you/her may not be happy with the look of that wire/conduit on the outside of the house.

If you post a few photos of the outside ot your house, folks may be able to give you some insights on running options.

Thanks, I’ll take some in the morning

 

[Prof3ssorblu]

Also, don't abandon the idea of buying the equipment and getting a guy to run the wires only. You do the hook ups.

Honestly that is where I think I am…I have been getting quotes from companies for either their system and labor to install/wire or cost for installing my system and wiring…in all cases so far I come out cheaper doing that and with Bette equipment

 

[samplenhold]

No matter what you do, make sure you test each position BEFORE you have cable run. Get a single varifocal cam, like a T5442, and mount it on a test rig as described in the WIKI. Walk the area in daytime and night time to see if you get the results you want.

 

[looney2ns]

You can always hire an electrician that is certified in low voltage wiring, they do this every day and it wouldn't take them long to run the cables that you need and he would do it neatly. Always check references before hiring.

 

[TonyR]

To add to @looney2ns ' great suggestion, consider trying ==>> Better Business Bureau

At the above link I suggest using the category "low voltage contractor" and "BBB Accredited Only"; put in the name of your city and state then click on "search."