Honeywell Vista 20P Shopping List

@smiticans thank you for the continued help about the SMP3, 1361-GT transformer and WBOX 0E-SR100S - B connectors. I'll have to look into these further on where I would use them.

To be totally clear about the keypads themselves: Each keypad is a home-run to the panel? Or do I just have one keypad go to the panel and then daisy chain from keypad to keypad? This will help me determine how much of the 22/4 I need to purchase.

forumviewer said:

To be totally clear about the keypads themselves: Each keypad is a home-run to the panel? Or do I just have one keypad go to the panel and then daisy chain from keypad to keypad? This will help me determine how much of the 22/4 I need to purchase.

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Home runs are best. It's technically possible to connect keypads in other ways (could require larger wire), but you're more likely to run into problems where you might be trying to pull too much current through a set of wires given the distance and load of additional keypads. There's often some guidance about this in the panel manuals.
I'd also probably run a Cat-5e / Cat-6 to the keypad locations for future proofing.

Another choice is whether you put your zone expander in the panel or put it in a closet somewhere closer to the zones you're connecting to it.

Make sure you run some Cat-6 or better cable to various points in the house, every bedroom / office, every tv, and anywhere you might want a wifi access point.

Generally speaking, it seems you have a lot to learn and likely not enough time to do so. Some of the details of the alarm system can be worked out later as long as the wires are run well. I'll try to see if I can dig up some old threads that may be helpful.

I hope you have some sense about this, but try not to do anything too stupid when it comes to actually installing cables; you'd be shocked at some of the idiotic things the previous owner of a friend's house did to run network cables that compromised key structural and fire rated assemblies.

forumviewer said:

@smiticans thank you for the continued help about the SMP3, 1361-GT transformer and WBOX 0E-SR100S - B connectors. I'll have to look into these further on where I would use them.

To be totally clear about the keypads themselves: Each keypad is a home-run to the panel? Or do I just have one keypad go to the panel and then daisy chain from keypad to keypad? This will help me determine how much of the 22/4 I need to purchase.

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The B-connectors are going to be used anywhere you need to splice a wire (I forgot to mention you need a good wire stripper in addition to cutter). I suggest reading the install manual for the vista at least once or twice before you attempt the install. Also, there are numerous install and programming videos on YouTube for the 20p. I suggest you watch a couple of them to get an idea on how it's wired/programmed.

I purchased a Vista 20p along with a few wireless contacts, 6160rf, wired contacts and a WAVE2.

I hooked the black cable into #4 in Vista20p and into the WAVE2 ground. I hooked the red cable up into #3 in Vista20p and the #2 on the WAVE2. Plugged the power back in and the WAVE2 has a small noise to it that is constant. I tested an alarm and the WAVE2 would ring real loud, as expected, for about 3 seconds and then not ring at all (while the keypad continues to be audible). Any ideas?

forumviewer said:

I purchased a Vista 20p along with a few wireless contacts, 6160rf, wired contacts and a WAVE2.

I hooked the black cable into #4 in Vista20p and into the WAVE2 ground. I hooked the red cable up into #3 in Vista20p and the #2 on the WAVE2. Plugged the power back in and the WAVE2 has a small noise to it that is constant. I tested an alarm and the WAVE2 would ring real loud, as expected, for about 3 seconds and then not ring at all (while the keypad continues to be audible). Any ideas?

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Did you install the 12v backup battery on the Vista 20p? The system will not function properly without the battery attached. The vista also uses the battery to help power the sirens during an alarm.

In regards to the siren making that noise, did you connect the 820ohm bell supervision resistor across terminals 3 and 4 (if you want it properly supervised put it across the terminals on the siren)?

See page 2-4 in the installation manual that will explain both of the issues you're having.

@smiticans - Amazing! thank you for your help, that worked perfectly. The installation instructions that came within the WAVE2 was tiny with very little information. When you say "See page 2-4 in the installation manual" what manual are you referring to? With the Visa 20P it came with a getting started and the programming guide booklet only and the WAVE2 was a tiny leaflet.

forumviewer said:

@smiticans - Amazing! thank you for your help, that worked perfectly. The installation instructions that came within the WAVE2 was tiny with very little information. When you say "See page 2-4 in the installation manual" what manual are you referring to? With the Visa 20P it came with a getting started and the programming guide booklet only and the WAVE2 was a tiny leaflet.

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Where did you purchase the 20p? It should've come with a installation and setup guide. Here is a link to an online version- Honeywell Vista-15P/Vista-20P - Install Guide - Dated 3/15 Rev. C

Leave yourself service loops for all wires you install

Since the 20P is wall mounted what is the best method of getting the wires into the cabinet? I see the punch out holes in the top which I can come through but then you'll see wires exposed above the panel. Is id anyway adviseable to have a normal 1 gang outlet type box to run all of the cables into recessed into the wall cavity and then drill a hole in the back of the 20P cabinet and place that hole over the 1 gang junction box so that none of the cables are exposed?

forumviewer said:

Since the 20P is wall mounted what is the best method of getting the wires into the cabinet? I see the punch out holes in the top which I can come through but then you'll see wires exposed above the panel. Is id anyway adviseable to have a normal 1 gang outlet type box to run all of the cables into recessed into the wall cavity and then drill a hole in the back of the 20P cabinet and place that hole over the 1 gang junction box so that none of the cables are exposed?

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You could partially recess the cabinet (leaving it far enough forward to allow space for drywall and the door to open). Most often it's just surface mounted over top of a large hole in the drywall.

You could run your security, network, and coax wiring into a couple of these: 28" Structured Wiring Box - ELK Products (ELK Alarms do mount nicely in these)
The vista panel doesn't have to be mounted in the vista cabinet.

tangent said:

You could partially recess the cabinet (leaving it far enough forward to allow space for drywall and the door to open). Most often it's just surface mounted over top of a large hole in the drywall.

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If the cabinet (let's just say the Vista cabinet) has a large hole in the drywall then shouldn't the cabinet have a large hole in it? This I would have to manually create, which isn't a big deal, but certainly don't want to do something that is way out of the ordinary. I figured I would get a 4" x 4" hole or so in the lower area of the Vista cabinet and then place that hole over a 2 gang electrical junction box which will have all of the alarm lines inside so that the drywall folks can dry wall around the junction box. Then when after paint I'll come in and mount the Vista cabinet aligning the 4" x 4" manually cut hole over the junction box and boom, I have my cables in the cabinet and they aren't exposed in any fashion.

forumviewer said:

I figured I would get a 4" x 4" hole or so in the lower area of the Vista cabinet and then place that hole over a 2 gang electrical junction box which will have all of the alarm lines inside so that the drywall folks can dry wall around the junction box.

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I wouldn't use a regular junction box. You'll end up damaging wires if you do. A single gang (~2"x4") low voltage mud ring should be plenty. It may be better if you just have to cut a hole in the drywall. Drywallers can't be trusted to not damage your wires.

As for putting a hole in something like the vista cabinet, a round 2" hole is likely big enough. Use a round hole saw (smooth edges with a file) or electrician's knockout punch set. There are knockouts in the back that look to be 1.5" and are probably big enough.

Any suggestions for 18/2 cable for wired door sensors for 500 feet? I went to purchase Genesis WG-11185501 18/2 from AlarmGrid and they said it is out of stock and for whatever reason ADI isn't showing it on their website but they do show Genesis WG-21145501 18/2 but AlarmGrid said that they don't worry or sell that version (which I'm not even sure what the difference is).

@tangent - Thank you for the suggestion and I agree about drywallers. I may just put a low voltage mud-ring where I want a hole and then not even have the alarm wires anywhere near the hole!

forumviewer said:

Any suggestions for 18/2 cable for wired door sensors for 500 feet? I went to purchase Genesis WG-11185501 18/2 from AlarmGrid and they said it is out of stock and for whatever reason ADI isn't showing it on their website but they do show Genesis WG-21145501 18/2 but AlarmGrid said that they don't worry or sell that version (which I'm not even sure what the difference is).

@tangent - Thank you for the suggestion and I agree about drywallers. I may just put a low voltage mud-ring where I want a hole and then not even have the alarm wires anywhere near the hole!

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Is the door sensor 500 feet from the panel or are you just trying to buy a box of 500 feet of wire? Generally, door/window sensors are wired with 22/2 or 22/4 wire. Motion detectors, glassbreaks and keypads are 22/4.