NorthBendDave
Pulling my weight
Just replaced one of my cams with the Dahua. This is with no tweaking of settings. Recorded on a Lorex Ultra 4K NVR.
Wow, what a diff size makes: 4MP Lorex vs 4MP Dahua (IPC-T5442T-ZE)
- Thread starter NorthBendDave
- Start date
NorthBendDave
Pulling my weight
The Lorex is a 1/3 sensor and the Dahua is a 1/1.8 sensor
biggen
Known around here
- Joined
- May 6, 2018
- Messages
- 2,567
- Reaction score
- 2,842
Sensor size matter!
Keep in mind that you are probably using AUTO settings if everything is set to default. That makes for a pretty static image but induces motion blur. When you get a chance start tweaking those shutter settings.
Keep in mind that you are probably using AUTO settings if everything is set to default. That makes for a pretty static image but induces motion blur. When you get a chance start tweaking those shutter settings.
NorthBendDave
Pulling my weight
Dahua has blur at night. I have a lot of room to work with it now.
It is not (yet) showing motion alerts on the Lorex NVR. More tweaking I'm sure.
It is not (yet) showing motion alerts on the Lorex NVR. More tweaking I'm sure.
Light is certainly a much needed friend to these types of cameras! Auto/default settings rarely produce the best results, especially at night.
In my opinion, shutter and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible. HLC at 50, unless for LPR, will certainly degrade the image with motion.
In my opinion, shutter and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible. HLC at 50, unless for LPR, will certainly degrade the image with motion.
mat200
IPCT Contributor
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2017
- Messages
- 13,931
- Reaction score
- 23,234
Excellent results @NorthBendDave
Please feel free to share what you needed to do to get the Dahua OEM camera to wortk with your NVR. ( also feel free to share the model numbers, this hopefully will help others )
Thanks
If anything like my neighbor's Lorex 4K NVR, it was simply take down the Lorex camera and put up the Dahua OEM and the NVR took care of everything. The NVR found the camera before we even got off the ladder and back inside to set it up.
user8963
Known around here
NorthBendDave
Pulling my weight
Cam did not show when I first connected to the NVR
I used a power supply and network cable to my PC to reset the camera to DHCP. Plugged it into the NVR and it showed up then.
NVR is a Lorex NR916-N on the sticker. It shows as a NR616 by software.
NorthBendDave
Pulling my weight
Another thing, the new Dahua cam did not have the motion detection zones marked. Had to turn on MD and also select the detection zones.