NEWB Trying to get some assistance

basil_

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PLEASE HELP THIS NEWB!
I joined the forums some time ago and rad through the cliff notes and found extremely helpful information. However, i do not wish nor want to have a PC running BI at all times.
Questions I have that have not found a clear answer or recommendation to:

1. If I get the IPC cameras (IPC-T2431T-AS, about 4-6 cams) here, should i get the 2.8mm or 3.6mm lens? (The side of the house is very dark at night)
a. Is there any benefit to getting a cam with LED? (Thinking about putting some flood lights for those dar areas to save some money)
2. If I use an NVR with the cameras, is there an application that I can use to get notifications or remote into the cameras?
3. Is there a preferred NVR other than the ones in the IPC store?

Note:
  • Not a big fan of the whole 4K thing and after reading several posts most users in the forums stray from them as well.
  • Cameras will be mounted on the soffit
  • Have an ASUS Router running MERLIN (shoutout to the team who work endlessly on supporting that project, HIGHLY recommend it if you have a compatible ASUS router)
  • Will be running CAT6 myself as part of putting ethernet drops around the house.
  • I AM OPEN TO ANY RECOMMENDATIONS ON CAMERA STYLES.

Look forward for your recommendations and/or comments, Thank you!
 

wittaj

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Good that you are not buying into the 4K hype. As of right now, It is simple LOL - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything other than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything other than a 1/2.8" sensor. Most 4k are on the same sensor as a 2MP and the 2MP will kick its butt all night long...

The LEDs on cameras are gimmicky - you need way more light for the tiny sensors in these cameras. Go with true flood lights.

ALL cameras need light at night. Simple physics. Marketing a camera as low light and full color doesn't change that fact. As some folks are finding out, some of these cameras play with parameters that make them look nice and bright at night, but when there is motion, it is a complete blur and ghosting. I can make a crap camera look like noon at midnight by adjusting the parameters and make it look great as a still picture, but as soon as motion is introduced, it is blur and ghost city. How many perps will stop for 5 seconds so that your camera can get a clean shot of them...

If there isn't enough light, then you want to get a camera that has infrared, but then it will be B/W. Once you take it off auto settings, you will notice that the viewing distance isn't as advertised. Do you want 120 feet but it is all blurry or 25 feet but good clean images.

You would be surprised how much light these cameras need to stay in color at night (for the cameras that can switch to B/W with IR).

I have 33,000 lumen radiating off my house and I have to force the camera in color as it is not enough light for the camera to automatically stay in color at night. The sensors are small in cameras and need a lot of light.

I have enough light at this location that the LED white light on the camera didn’t make a difference. So with this 1/120 shutter speed, I wanted to see if the camera could perform with only the LED white light from the camera and the flood lights turned off. As you can see from this video, it barely recognized me at these settings. You would need to run 1/30 shutter with just the white light to be able to start to make a person out, but the image is way too dark and will start to be motion blur.

The average Joe will not spend the time to calibrate and will just leave the settings on auto and love the great still image they get and then just accept a blur/ghost motion at night. When do we need these to perform - at night!

Keep in mind that with the shutter at auto, it is a nice bright image, but motion was a blur...once you dial the camera in to actually be usable, you see the limitations...


Now the next thing you need to worry about is getting the right camera for the right location.

You would be shocked how close someone needs to be to a 2.8 lens in order to ID them. And how much additional light is needed at night (when it matters most).

Take a look at this chart - to identify someone with the 2.8mm lens that is popular, someone would have to be within 13 feet of the camera, but realistically within 10 feet after you dial it in to your settings.

1604638118196.png



My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his 4 2.8mm fixed lens cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away.

When we had a thief come thru here and get into a lot of cars, the police couldn't use one video or photo from anyone's system that had fixed 2.8mm or 3.6mm cams - those cams sure looks nice and gives a great wide angle view, but you cannot identify anyone at 15 feet out. At night you cannot even ID someone from 10 feet. Meanwhile, the perp didn't come to my house but walked past on the sidewalk at 80 feet from my house and my 2MP varifocal zoomed in to a point at the sidewalk was the money shot for the police that got my neighbors all there stolen stuff back. Reolinks are even worse at night - he tried those first and sent back to get Arlos....and a year later he is regretting that choice too.

In fact my system was the only one that gave them useful information. Not even my other neighbors $1,300 4k Lorex system from Costco provided useful info - the cams just didn't cut it at night. His system wasn't even a year old and after that event has started replacing with cameras purchased from @EMPIRETECANDY on this site based on my recommendation and seeing my results - fortunately those cams work with the Lorex NVR. He is still shocked a 2MP camera performs better than his 4k cameras... It is all about the amount of light needed and getting the right camera for the right location.

My first few systems were the box units that were all 2.8mm lens and while the picture looked great in daytime, to identify someone you didn't know is impossible unless they are within 10 feet of the camera, and even then it is tough. You are getting the benefit coming to this site of hearing thoughts from people that have been there/done that.

We all hate to be that guy with a system and something happens and the event demonstrates how poor our system was and then we start the update process. My neighbor with his expensive arlos and monthly fees is that guy right now and is still fuming his system failed him.

Here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the 5442 camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

Don't discount Blue Iris/computer combo as an NVR. Keep in mind an NVR is a stripped down computer after all....and isn't true plug-n-play like people believe. You still have to dial the cameras into your setting. Once you do that, might as well go with something that has the best chance of working with many different camera brands. And I have found Blue Iris to be more robust and easier than an NVR. As always, YMMV...

When I was looking at NVRs, once I realized that not all NVRs are created equal, and once I priced out a good one, it was cheaper to buy a refurbished computer than an NVR. You don't need to buy components and build one.

Many of these refurbished computers are business class computers that have come off lease. The one I bought I kid you not I could not tell that it was a refurbished unit - not a speck of dust or dents or scratches on it. It appeared to me like everything was replaced and I would assume just the motherboard with the intel processor is what was from the original unit. I went with the lowest end processor on the WIKI list as it was the cheapest and it runs my system fine. Could probably get going for $200 or so. A real NVR will cost more than that.

NVRs from the box units like a Amcrest and Lorex cap out incoming bandwidth (which impacts the resolution and FPS of the cameras). The Lorex and Amcrest NVR maxes out at 80Mbps and truly only one or a couple cameras that will display 4K. My neighbors was limited to that and he is all upset it isn't 4K for all eight channels and he was capped out at 4096 bitrate on each camera so it was a pixelated mess.

The best advice we give is purchase one varifocal camera and test it at each location you want to install a camera and confirm the lens you need and do not install higher than 7-8 feet unless it is for an overview camera - otherwise you get top of heads and hoodies.

OK, you have the Asus Router, so you use the native OpenVPN to VPN back into your home network to view remotely which keeps your cams off the internet.
 
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I have two of those T2431T-AS cams running in my garage. They are fine for that use, indoors with interior lighting or pitch black with IR. But personally I would not use them for perimeter work as they would not do well in after dark video. I would get too much ghosting/blur from moving people. I prefer the T5442TM-AS or the T5442T-ZE varifocal cam for that work.

However, i do not wish nor want to have a PC running BI at all times.
OK. Then you will need an NVR that will be running at all times. Your choice. Many here love their NVRs. I personally love my PC and BI.

2. If I use an NVR with the cameras, is there an application that I can use to get notifications or remote into the cameras?
3. Is there a preferred NVR other than the ones in the IPC store?
Yes, NVRs come with there own remote apps. Preferred NVR...make sure you get the same brand as the cams. If you are going with Dahua, @bigredfish can give you recommendations.

Before you run your cat6 to the soffits, it would really be smart to do as @wittaj stated above about getting a varifocal cam (like a T5442T-ZE or the B5442) and use that to test your ideas of camera placement and what you can observe. Have someone walk it night and day. Perps are always moving. Either they are walking, running, or just moving their heads from side to side looking for trouble. IF you can't get a good enough shot of their face at the test location, then change the location/view.
 

basil_

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Good that you are not buying into the 4K hype. As of right now, It is simple LOL - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything other than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything other than a 1/2.8" sensor. Most 4k are on the same sensor as a 2MP and the 2MP will kick its butt all night long...

The LEDs on cameras are gimmicky - you need way more light for the tiny sensors in these cameras. Go with true flood lights.

ALL cameras need light at night. Simple physics. Marketing a camera as low light and full color doesn't change that fact. As some folks are finding out, some of these cameras play with parameters that make them look nice and bright at night, but when there is motion, it is a complete blur and ghosting. I can make a crap camera look like noon at midnight by adjusting the parameters and make it look great as a still picture, but as soon as motion is introduced, it is blur and ghost city. How many perps will stop for 5 seconds so that your camera can get a clean shot of them...

If there isn't enough light, then you want to get a camera that has infrared, but then it will be B/W. Once you take it off auto settings, you will notice that the viewing distance isn't as advertised. Do you want 120 feet but it is all blurry or 25 feet but good clean images.

You would be surprised how much light these cameras need to stay in color at night (for the cameras that can switch to B/W with IR).

I have 33,000 lumen radiating off my house and I have to force the camera in color as it is not enough light for the camera to automatically stay in color at night. The sensors are small in cameras and need a lot of light.

I have enough light at this location that the LED white light on the camera didn’t make a difference. So with this 1/120 shutter speed, I wanted to see if the camera could perform with only the LED white light from the camera and the flood lights turned off. As you can see from this video, it barely recognized me at these settings. You would need to run 1/30 shutter with just the white light to be able to start to make a person out, but the image is way too dark and will start to be motion blur.

The average Joe will not spend the time to calibrate and will just leave the settings on auto and love the great still image they get and then just accept a blur/ghost motion at night. When do we need these to perform - at night!

Keep in mind that with the shutter at auto, it is a nice bright image, but motion was a blur...once you dial the camera in to actually be usable, you see the limitations...


Now the next thing you need to worry about is getting the right camera for the right location.

You would be shocked how close someone needs to be to a 2.8 lens in order to ID them. And how much additional light is needed at night (when it matters most).

Take a look at this chart - to identify someone with the 2.8mm lens that is popular, someone would have to be within 13 feet of the camera, but realistically within 10 feet after you dial it in to your settings.

1604638118196.png



My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his 4 2.8mm fixed lens cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away.

When we had a thief come thru here and get into a lot of cars, the police couldn't use one video or photo from anyone's system that had fixed 2.8mm or 3.6mm cams - those cams sure looks nice and gives a great wide angle view, but you cannot identify anyone at 15 feet out. At night you cannot even ID someone from 10 feet. Meanwhile, the perp didn't come to my house but walked past on the sidewalk at 80 feet from my house and my 2MP varifocal zoomed in to a point at the sidewalk was the money shot for the police that got my neighbors all there stolen stuff back. Reolinks are even worse at night - he tried those first and sent back to get Arlos....and a year later he is regretting that choice too.

In fact my system was the only one that gave them useful information. Not even my other neighbors $1,300 4k Lorex system from Costco provided useful info - the cams just didn't cut it at night. His system wasn't even a year old and after that event has started replacing with cameras purchased from @EMPIRETECANDY on this site based on my recommendation and seeing my results - fortunately those cams work with the Lorex NVR. He is still shocked a 2MP camera performs better than his 4k cameras... It is all about the amount of light needed and getting the right camera for the right location.

My first few systems were the box units that were all 2.8mm lens and while the picture looked great in daytime, to identify someone you didn't know is impossible unless they are within 10 feet of the camera, and even then it is tough. You are getting the benefit coming to this site of hearing thoughts from people that have been there/done that.

We all hate to be that guy with a system and something happens and the event demonstrates how poor our system was and then we start the update process. My neighbor with his expensive arlos and monthly fees is that guy right now and is still fuming his system failed him.

Here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the 5442 camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

Don't discount Blue Iris/computer combo as an NVR. Keep in mind an NVR is a stripped down computer after all....and isn't true plug-n-play like people believe. You still have to dial the cameras into your setting. Once you do that, might as well go with something that has the best chance of working with many different camera brands. And I have found Blue Iris to be more robust and easier than an NVR. As always, YMMV...

When I was looking at NVRs, once I realized that not all NVRs are created equal, and once I priced out a good one, it was cheaper to buy a refurbished computer than an NVR. You don't need to buy components and build one.

Many of these refurbished computers are business class computers that have come off lease. The one I bought I kid you not I could not tell that it was a refurbished unit - not a speck of dust or dents or scratches on it. It appeared to me like everything was replaced and I would assume just the motherboard with the intel processor is what was from the original unit. I went with the lowest end processor on the WIKI list as it was the cheapest and it runs my system fine. Could probably get going for $200 or so. A real NVR will cost more than that.

NVRs from the box units like a Amcrest and Lorex cap out incoming bandwidth (which impacts the resolution and FPS of the cameras). The Lorex and Amcrest NVR maxes out at 80Mbps and truly only one or a couple cameras that will display 4K. My neighbors was limited to that and he is all upset it isn't 4K for all eight channels and he was capped out at 4096 bitrate on each camera so it was a pixelated mess.

The best advice we give is purchase one varifocal camera and test it at each location you want to install a camera and confirm the lens you need and do not install higher than 7-8 feet unless it is for an overview camera - otherwise you get top of heads and hoodies.

OK, you have the Asus Router, so you use the native OpenVPN to VPN back into your home network to view remotely which keeps your cams off the internet.
@wittaj Thank you for taking the time to provide a detailed answer. I have had a crazy couple of months and haven't gotten to order a varifocal for the specific places they'll be used. I'm thinking about 7 cameras which will be a mix of surveillance (link) and 2-3 varifocals for the front and rear entrance.

What do you think of the cameras in the link above? I have not been able to find anything on them and they seem to be rebranded.

I am also looking into flood light but those I can get at Lowes or Home Depot without any issues.

Thanks again for taking the time and providing a detailed response. You're the real MVP!
 

sebastiantombs

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Those cameras are 5MP on a 1/2.7 sensor and won't be worth much at night. Like @wittaj said 4MP on a 1/1.8 or a 2MP on a 1/2.8 at a minimum. You're still needlessly chasing megapixels. Chase sensor size instead. Have a look at the 3241T-ZAS, 2MP on a 1/2.8 sensor with audio.

 

wittaj

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Yes, the cameras we mention above are Dahua OEM, just with a different name. Just like Lorex and Amcrest are made by Dahua, often with features stripped, whereas the cameras we referenced do not have anything stripped from them.

As others have pointed out as well, do not chase MP and chase sensor size and the ability to control the settings within the camera.

Your best bet is to buy from Andy here on his Amazon store or directly from him.

Amazon.com

Loryta and Empiretech are Dahua OEM sold by Andy. Some of my cameras I have bought from Andy from his Amazon store come as Dahua cams in Dahua boxes with Dahua logos, and some are not logo'd - I think it depends on how many cameras Andy buys if he gets them with the Dahua Logo or not. But regardless, they are Dahua cams. If you get a camera that has Dahua on it, then the camera GUI will say Dahua; otherwise it will simply say IP Camera but looks identical except without the logo.

And the firmware we get from him is actually better because many members here provide feedback to Andy and then Dahua makes modifications to the firmware and sends back to him and then he sends out to his customers. These have been great improvements that Dahua doesn't even update their firmware and add to their website. So many of us are running a newer firmware than those that purchase Dahua cameras through professional installers. Smart IR on the 5442 series is one such improvement. Autotracking on the 49225 is another. Almost every other vendor the 49225 is not autotrack.
 
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basil_

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Those cameras are 5MP on a 1/2.7 sensor and won't be worth much at night. Like @wittaj said 4MP on a 1/1.8 or a 2MP on a 1/2.8 at a minimum. You're still needlessly chasing megapixels. Chase sensor size instead. Have a look at the 3241T-ZAS, 2MP on a 1/2.8 sensor with audio.

The only reason I was even considering these was because a friend’s neighbor installs cameras and those were the ones he installed at my friend’s house. I was not chasing megapixels, that is what the installer recommended as a “good” camera. Only reason I asked it’s because I had never heard of the brand and was what the guy was recommending. I’m glad i double checked, could have fooled me. I will stick to what you guys recommend. I was only looking for the sensor size regardless of the megapixels. I guess i miss understood. I will have to go back to reading the post and make notes.
 

wittaj

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Unfortunately, you will find that many installers have no idea what they are doing and since they are not authorized installers of quality cameras, they are stuck installing crap cameras no real professional installer would install....and probably charging a premium for crap cameras and workmanship.

Ask you neighbor to see some footage of it at night with motion and report back....or even better see if you can get a clip to post....I bet it is blur and ghost city...

@looney2ns neighbor's grandson works for a professional installer and this is what they do and the cheap store bought kit cameras they install:

1619576578390.png

 

basil_

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Yes, the cameras we mention above are Dahua OEM, just with a different name. Just like Lorex and Amcrest are made by Dahua, often with features stripped, whereas the cameras we referenced do not have anything stripped from them.

As others have pointed out as well, do not chase MP and chase sensor size and the ability to control the settings within the camera.

Your best bet is to buy from Andy here on his Amazon store or directly from him.

Amazon.com

Loryta and Empiretech are Dahua OEM sold by Andy. Some of my cameras I have bought from Andy from his Amazon store come as Dahua cams in Dahua boxes with Dahua logos, and some are not logo'd - I think it depends on how many cameras Andy buys if he gets them with the Dahua Logo or not. But regardless, they are Dahua cams. If you get a camera that has Dahua on it, then the camera GUI will say Dahua; otherwise it will simply say IP Camera but looks identical except without the logo.

And the firmware we get from him is actually better because many members here provide feedback to Andy and then Dahua makes modifications to the firmware and sends back to him and then he sends out to his customers. These have been great improvements that Dahua doesn't even update their firmware and add to their website. So many of us are running a newer firmware than those that purchase Dahua cameras through professional installers. Smart IR on the 5442 series is one such improvement. Autotracking on the 49225 is another. Almost every other vendor the 49225 is not autotrack.
I was not chasing MP. Trying to condense my answer i left out many details. It was recommended by a friend’s neighbor who installs cameras and I thought he new what he was talking about. I tried searching some of the cameras you had initially suggested but he only had the newer version of the one you were recommending. I have made peace with the fact that running Blue Iris on a pc won’t be so bad after all. I just need to get a budget going because im already looking at $1000+ with cameras and pc.

im not worried about the branding on the cameras. I was asking if the cortex cameras were rebranded because they looked similar to others in the market. I will order one and test at different locations as you recommended on your first post. Is just going to take a little longer than I expected. I’m glad I double checked before buying.
 
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wittaj

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I was not chasing MP. Trying to condense my answer i left out many details. It was recommended by a friend’s neighbor who installs cameras and I thought he new what he was talking about. I tried searching some of the cameras you had initially suggested but he only had the newer version of the one you were recommending. I have made peace with the fact that running Blue Iris on a pc won’t be so bad after all. I just need to get a budget going because im already looking at $1000+ with cameras and pc.

im not worried about the branding on the cameras. I was asking if the cortex cameras were rebranded because they looked similar to others in the market. I will order one and test at different locations as you recommended on your first post. Is just going to take a little longer than I expected. I’m glad I double checked before buying.
Who said he only had newer versions of the ones I suggested - there is no newer version of the 5442 series cameras yet?

The cortex camera looks like it is an H.View camera. I have one as an overview camera and is fine for that purpose, but motion and ghost blur city at night.
 

wittaj

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If your work has any of these 4th generation or above, you will be fine. As long as you follow every optimization in the wiki as well.



 

basil_

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Unfortunately, you will find that many installers have no idea what they are doing and since they are not authorized installers of quality cameras, they are stuck installing crap cameras no real professional installer would install....and probably charging a premium for crap cameras and workmanship.

Ask you neighbor to see some footage of it at night with motion and report back....or even better see if you can get a clip to post....I bet it is blur and ghost city...

@looney2ns neighbor's grandson works for a professional installer and this is what they do and the cheap store bought kit cameras they install:

View attachment 88011

I twitched a little looking at this lol.
WOW!! I'm Speechless. That is why I rather wire it myself even if it takes me a little longer to do.
 

wittaj

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It's scary isn't it. And people pay good money for that kind of install and that kind of camera system.

One of my first kit systems was a Night Owl before I knew better and the quality of the video at night was blur and ghost and you cannot change the parameters of the cams to dial them in.
 

basil_

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Who said he only had newer versions of the ones I suggested - there is no newer version of the 5442 series cameras yet?

The cortex camera looks like it is an H.View camera. I have one as an overview camera and is fine for that purpose, but motion and ghost blur city at night.
I couldn't find the ones you mentioned in your first post but maybe I was looking up the wrong thing. I going by what the AliExpress site was saying...if i remember correctly, it was saying "NEW" "HOT ITEM" for a 4K camera but that was not what I was looking for so I gave up and got super busy. Then here I am again...
I was a little confused and lost about all this cam stuff and didn't want to write back without doing some research. Yet I still made a fool of myself :facepalm:

If your work has any of these 4th generation or above, you will be fine. As long as you follow every optimization in the wiki as well.



I am in the IT world, therefore I will make sure everything matches or is better than what is asking for; without breaking the bank of course. This part of the setup i am the most comfortable with.
 
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OK that makes sense. Questions are good. As Looney says "buy once, cry once". Better to ask the questions and understand what it is you are trying to accomplish with the cameras and then get the right cameras. All my neighbors $1,300 Costco Lorex kit can tell the police is what time the door checker tried the door handle....not much value in that alone.

I use his Amazon store to find the cameras as it is easier to navigate than the Aliexpress site LOL.

 
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looney2ns

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Unfortunately, you will find that many installers have no idea what they are doing and since they are not authorized installers of quality cameras, they are stuck installing crap cameras no real professional installer would install....and probably charging a premium for crap cameras and workmanship.

Ask you neighbor to see some footage of it at night with motion and report back....or even better see if you can get a clip to post....I bet it is blur and ghost city...

@looney2ns neighbor's grandson works for a professional installer and this is what they do and the cheap store bought kit cameras they install:

View attachment 88011

I wouldn't use the term "professional installer" on this job. Scamming trunk slammer maybe, but pro......nope. ;)
 

sebastiantombs

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Here are some links to the more popular Dahua cameras that have been mentioned. Keep in mind that cameras from Andy, EmpireTech, are OEM versions with English firmware which makes them exactly the same as a Dahua even if they're labeled as Loryata or have no label. In fact Andy gets firmware faster than Dahua posts it on their own site and frequently gets custom firmware from Dahua based on feedback from members here on IPCT. Be very cautious with cameras from AliExpress or Ebay. Many, not all, can have hacked firmware which cannot be upgraded and if an upgrade is tried can result in bricking the camera. The problem buying from those sources is that you have no real idea what firmware is actually in use on the camera.

Review - Loryata (Dahua OEM) IPC-T5442T-ZE varifocal Turret

Review - OEM IPC-B5442E-ZE 4MP AI Varifocal Bullet Camera With Starlight+

Review-OEM 4mp AI Cam IPC-T5442TM-AS Starlight+ Turret

Review IPC-T5442TM-AS-LED (Turret, Full Color, Starlight+)

Review: IPC-HDBW5442R-ASE-NI - Dahua Technology Pro AI Bullet Network Camera

2231 Review
Review-OEM IPC-T2231RP-ZS 2mp Varifocal Turret Starlight Camera

3241T-ZAS Review

Less expensive models -
 

wittaj

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For every vendor like this one below that informs buyers about the hacked camera, probably 15 do not.

Other than paying a premium to purchase from an authorized US dealer, then one should purchase from a reputable seller with a proven track record. In my experiences Andy has done so. I have not seen an AliExpress or Ebay seller that offers a unit cheaper, or certainly not cheaper enough than Andy does to justify the risk.


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