Loryta SD49225XA-HNR 2MP 25x Starlight + IR PTZ

Coachtech

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I just received this camera to replace a 13x zoom camera, is my thinking about zoom wrong, with the 13x zoom i can zoom in and read a mail box quite a ways out with no problem that's as far as it would zoom to no farther out. now this new camera being 25x zooms shouldn't i be able to zoom on out farther past the mailbox i would think? It zooms up to the box just as my 13x camera did and no farther, I see no difference what so ever between this camera and my 13x zoom camera as far as zooming is concern. comparing side by side one would think they are both 13x zooms and not a 25x zoom, i would have kept 13x zoom up if i knew i couldn't get out farther. Just dose not seem like a 25x zoom? Any thoughts would really be helpful.
 

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I just received this camera to replace a 13x zoom camera, is my thinking about zoom wrong, with the 13x zoom i can zoom in and read a mail box quite a ways out with no problem that's as far as it would zoom to no farther out. now this new camera being 25x zooms shouldn't i be able to zoom on out farther past the mailbox i would think? It zooms up to the box just as my 13x camera did and no farther, I see no difference what so ever between this camera and my 13x zoom camera as far as zooming is concern. comparing side by side one would think they are both 13x zooms and not a 25x zoom, i would have kept 13x zoom up if i knew i couldn't get out farther. Just dose not seem like a 25x zoom? Any thoughts would really be helpful.
13x and 25x are simply marketing terms, they are not technical terms about the lens.
You want to compare the focal length. such as 4.8 mm–120 mm
 

wittaj

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The number times zoom is irrelevant. It is the range of the focal length. If the larger number is the same, then they will essentially see the same field of view (within reason).
 

Coachtech

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The number times zoom is irrelevant. It is the range of the focal length. If the larger number is the same, then they will essentially see the same field of view (within reason).
Understand it now, very impressed with this camera at night,very little lighting and it looks like day, for me money well spent, thanks to all who suggested it. seems just a little slow to focus after panning at night probably just play with settings.Going to be replacing about 10 cameras will be looking ,reading up and be back to ask for recommendation. Are all these star light camera looks this good at night?
 

wittaj

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Yep it is a great camera!

I suspect you are probably running auto shutter?

Turn off PFA and see if that improves your focus.

Starlight is a marketing term...
 

Coachtech

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I suspect you are probably running auto shutter?

Turn off PFA and see if that improves your focus.
I will try that, the fixed camera are not that good at night the whole system was given to me by a old coople i used to work on there motor home and they where moving into assisted living, it is one of them Lorex 4k with 4 fixed cameras a PTTZ camera they probably spent about 2 grand for everything Going to try Blue Iris out after i read up and watch videos about it, don't want to run out of trial time but then its not that much to buy.
 

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My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his 4 2.8mm fixed lens cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away.

When we had a thief come thru here and get into a lot of cars, the police couldn't use one video or photo from anyone's system that had fixed 2.8mm or 3.6mm cams - those cams sure looks nice and gives a great wide angle view, but you cannot identify anyone at 15 feet out. At night you cannot even ID someone from 10 feet. Meanwhile, the perp didn't come to my house but walked past on the sidewalk at 80 feet from my house and my 2MP varifocal zoomed in to a point at the sidewalk was the money shot for the police that got my neighbors all there stolen stuff back.

In fact my system was the only one that gave them useful information. Not even my other neighbors $1,300 4k Lorex system from Costco provided useful info - the cams just didn't cut it at night. His system wasn't even a year old and after that event has started replacing with cameras purchased from @EMPIRETECANDY on this site based on my recommendation and seeing my results - fortunately those cams work with the Lorex NVR. He is still shocked a 2MP camera performs better than his 4k cameras... It is all about the amount of light needed and getting the right camera for the right location.

Lesson....do not chase MP....It is simple LOL do not chase MP - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything other than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything other than a 1/2.8" sensor. Most 4k are on the same sensor as a 2MP and thus the 2MP will kick its butt all night long as the 4k will need 4 times the light than the 2MP...this is even more critical with a PTZ that will be PTZing across a wide range of differing light conditions at night. 4k will do very poor at night unless you have stadium quality lighting (well a lot of lighting LOL).

This 2MP PTZ image will blow away most consumer grade 4k cameras at night.
 

wittaj

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Regarding hardware for Blue Iris, it is cheaper to buy a refurbished computer. You don't need to buy components and build one or buy a new computer.

Many here purchase refurbished computers as they are usually business class computers that have come off lease. The one I bought I kid you not I could not tell that it was a refurbished unit - not a speck of dust or dents or scratches on it. It appeared to me like everything was replaced and I would assume just the motherboard with the intel processor is what was from the original unit. I went with the lowest end processor on the WIKI list as it was the cheapest and it runs my system fine. Could probably get going for $200 or so. A member here just last month found a refurbished 4th generation for less than $150USD that came with Win10 PRO, 16GB RAM, and a 1TB drive. Another member here is running a 4th generation with 50 cameras at 30% CPU, so it can handle a good load.
 

wittaj

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To give you a head start on your additional cameras, here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the 5442 camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high (not on the 2nd story or above 7 feet high unless it is for overview and not Identification purposes) or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like Starlight, ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

I encourage you reach out to Andy @EMPIRETECANDY as he has an Amazon site to get your gear.

The best advice we give is purchase one varifocal camera and test it at each location you want to install a camera and confirm the lens you need and do not install higher than 7-8 feet unless it is for an overview camera - otherwise you get top of heads and hoodies.
 

Coachtech

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To give you a head start on your additional cameras, here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the 5442 camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high (not on the 2nd story or above 7 feet high unless it is for overview and not Identification purposes) or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like Starlight, ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

I encourage you reach out to Andy @EMPIRETECANDY as he has an Amazon site to get your gear.

The best advice we give is purchase one varifocal camera and test it at each location you want to install a camera and confirm the lens you need and do not install higher than 7-8 feet unless it is for an overview camera - otherwise you get top of heads and hoodies.
Will differently be giving some serious thoughts to all your recommendations it's better to ask pros then to get something I will be sorry for. Camera was no problem working with Lorex NVR only got 1 problem when i set NVR to just 4 cameras showing the one i got shows up, but when i switch to like 16 camera view it dosn't show anything just black box i click the black box then then the camera shows up in the larger view but reverts back to black when i click a another camera, maybe i need to reset NVR and start over. Again Thanks for your time and help for this newbie.
 

wittaj

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Will differently be giving some serious thoughts to all your recommendations it's better to ask pros then to get something I will be sorry for. Camera was no problem working with Lorex NVR only got 1 problem when i set NVR to just 4 cameras showing the one i got shows up, but when i switch to like 16 camera view it dosn't show anything just black box i click the black box then then the camera shows up in the larger view but reverts back to black when i click a another camera, maybe i need to reset NVR and start over. Again Thanks for your time and help for this newbie.
You need to go into each camera and turn on the substream. When it is showing the 16 channels, it shows substream and they are turned off.

Go into the camera settings page on the NVR and look for the Microsoft e Web Browser and select it and it will go to the camera GUI (photo credit bigredfish from his PSA thread). Your screen may look a little different to get into the camera gui and see if doing it this way gets you access to some other features the NVR is blocking - it did for my neighbors Lorex. From there you can set the camera parameters.


1611926899349.png
 

Coachtech

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You need to go into each camera and turn on the substream. When it is showing the 16 channels, it shows substream and they are turned off.

Go into the camera settings page on the NVR and look for the Microsoft e Web Browser and select it and it will go to the camera GUI (photo credit bigredfish from his PSA thread). Your screen may look a little different to get into the camera gui and see if doing it this way gets you access to some other features the NVR is blocking - it did for my neighbors Lorex. From there you can set the camera parameters.


1611926899349.png
My screen looks like yours with out explorer icon all i have 4 cameras plugged in 1-4 ports all show device and model of each camera when i click each camera (port1-3 which is Lorex camers they show TCP 3500), port 4 new PTZ camera shows TCP 37777
 

wittaj

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My screen looks like yours with out explorer icon all i have 4 cameras plugged in 1-4 ports all show device and model of each camera when i click each camera (port1-3 which is Lorex camers they show TCP 3500), port 4 new PTZ camera shows TCP 37777
Well dang, I have helped many of my Lorex neighbors and they all had the e browser.

Oh wait, did you log into the NVR from a computer by typing in the IP address of the NVR into a web browser or you looking at the NVR screen directly from the NVR hooked into a monitor? You need to do it from a computer and browser to get that screen.
 

Coachtech

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Well dang, I have helped many of my Lorex neighbors and they all had the e browser.

Oh wait, did you log into the NVR from a computer by typing in the IP address of the NVR into a web browser or you looking at the NVR screen directly from the NVR hooked into a monitor? You need to do it from a computer and browser to get that screen.
nvr hooked to moinitor
 

Coachtech

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That would do it - log in to it via a web browser and you will be in business.
Ok i got to it sub stream is enabled there is a video player but nothing is on it just a circle spinning no pitcher
 

wittaj

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Ok i got to it sub stream is enabled there is a video player but nothing is on it just a circle spinning no pitcher
browser probably needs a plugin. Surprised it didn't ask you if you wanted to download.

Does the substream show up now in the multiview on the monitor?
 

Coachtech

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browser probably needs a plugin. Surprised it didn't ask you if you wanted to download.

Does the substream show up now in the multiview on the monitor?
No sure dont just the 3 Lorex cameras show if i click the channel that is black then it shows up as a large pticher but then i get out of it and go back to 16 not there might be nvr problem because the ptz i took down showed there but again that was a Lorex
 

wittaj

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Maybe if the unit is old enough it doesn't have the computing power to show more?
 

Coachtech

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Maybe if the unit is old enough it doesn't have the computing power to show more?
Dont think is that this is a newer model they bought i have had 8 cameras at one time hooked and they all showed up Maybe ill just unplug and plug into another pot and see what happens
 
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