Interface from NVR output voltage to a 110V light

[Twister]

Just getting setup and am trying to find out the simplest way to trigger a light when subject comes into ROI. I have similar to this on my NVR, just curiouis as to what premade unit is available to make a light activate and possibly have a timer on it to switch the camera activate to color and keep the light on for X number of minutes. LOL, can hook up a daylight spot if necessary. Manfactured is probably A LOT cheaper than building my own which can do. Thanks for any ideas.

 

[jmcu]

Not sure what NVR you are referencing but you can trigger a light with the alarms, but the relay is only rated for 1 amp on the Dahua 52xx-4ks2. Some of the NVRs have output power, I think the older ones do.
The video I made was for a stobe/ siren at 12v. the specs show 125v / 160w @ 3:45 for this NVR.

The simplest way to trigger a light is to use a deterrent LED camera with tripwire IVS, they are not real bright but they do light up a dark area. I think they can only stay on 30 sec (x3)

 

[eggsan]

used before this external relay with built-in adjustable timer to control the relay, rated at 10 Amps (AC/DC). You may use the 12V from the NVR to power the device

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[Mark_M]

You need to use an external relay suitable for 110v connected to your NVR's relay contacts.

There is a video by a person in South Africa which connects 230v AC directly to his NVR's relay and that is a HUGE safety risk for yourself and the NVR may get fried.
I am not going to link that video because it is wrong, but I am mentioning it in case you find it online.

 

[eggsan]

Is obvious, no one should connect a high voltage directly to any recoding device. In this particular case, the NVR output is only used to trigger an auxiliary device (relay, intelli-switch, etc,)

 

[TonyR]

Decent $5 Opto-isolated relay board discussed here (these are 5VDC but 12VDC units are available and the schema is the same).

Also, 12VDC versions available like these, which can switch 10A @ 125VAC; I'd de-rate for tungsten lamps by 50% due to cold-filament inrush current OR go with LED (best way).




These are "dry" relay output which is a genuine, electro-mechanical relay output, with N.O. (Normally Open) or N.C. (Normally Closed) contacts available to the user or both available, plus a "COM" (Common) contact and there is no voltage, no pull-up or pull-down resistor to any voltage, etc.

A drawing would look like this: