I cannot see his face. Please help with settings.

[Bob Schulz]

I have a IPC-T5442TM-AS setup temporarily at my front door until I finallize what I am going to do. Today when the Amazon delivery came this is what I get from his face..
2nd channel is pointing at ground and seems to be fine so far.



Here are my settings for this came.. what do I need to change.. This is a 3.6 cam booby cam. Should i opt for a different one

 

[bigredfish]

I don’t recommend “auto” exposure, 1/120 or a range 0-8.33 is probably better, but your biggest change would be to add WDR. That’s pretty much exactly the kind of scene it’s used for.
Be careful and use just enough to lighten the dark area. Start at 10-20

 

[sebastiantombs]

The scene is back lit, IE brighter in the background than in the foreground, which is a problem. You can probably mitigate that somewhat by changing the exposure from auto to customized range and setting that at 0 and .05 or so. You can also try using either BLC (back light control) or WDR (wide dynamic range) in the Backlight setting. If you do that start out very low as in 5. Test, and if necessary, raise it very slowly in small increments each time until you get a reasonable image.

 

[bigredfish]

Yeah WDR can be tricky as it seems to be different on various models. I actually have one set to 1 and another at 20. Depends on the scene and the model camera. And it’s not linear, on some it goes from nothing to holly shit that’s a mess in just a few clicks.

 

[sebastiantombs]

Even BLC does the same thing. It's a slow process but when it's the only thing you can try it's worth the effort in the end.

 

[bigredfish]

Clarification, WDR and BLC are found in the Backlight menu

 

[sebastiantombs]

DUHHHHH, too old and too tired from the heat!

 

[bigredfish]

Hey, I resemble that remark

 

[sebastiantombs]

Back on topic, you may also need to adjust brightness and contrast just a little as well if you use either BLC or WDR to further improve things.

 

[DanDenver]

Since you indicated you were testing positions, try a little higher up if possible (not extremely high up). Having so much sky in the image is root cause.

 

[Bob Schulz]

Thanks guy! I will fiddle with it today..
First thing I am going to try is move came up a little. Currently it is just screwed to a board so that would be the easiest to try.

 

[bigredfish]

I’m guessing you’ll see different lighting conditions throughout the day. So best to test at various times. This again is where WDR can be helpful adapting to changing backlight

 

[wittaj]

I wouldn't move the camera up too much. You have a straight on head shot. If you move it too high up you are getting the top of the ball cap.

I think with the suggestions above, you will dial it in. WDR at 1 might be enough to do just that.

 

[Holbs]

keep in mind... once you finalize your day time settings, you may have to do different settings for night time profile.
I agree with Wittaj above...that is the perfect height to catch facial ID. I'd leave it alone.

 

[Bob Schulz]

Here is one of my tries. This was WDR @10 and exposure @ 0-8.33 With most of my attempts so far, the face jut seems out of focus. Yup to make it harder I am toe headed.

 

[Bob Schulz]

Ok update.. I realized I had 3D NR off.. This is with it on.

 

[bigredfish]

You can probably go with an even faster shutter. Try 0-2

 

[Bob Schulz]

This was darker.
Shouldn't I increase exposure not make it faster?

 

[bigredfish]

lower number = faster exposure. Shutter is open less time so while it helps freeze motion, it lets in less light yes. keep playing with that from 0-2 up to 0-5 or so and see if you find a sweet spot,

bigger number= slower shutter. Allows more light but also more blur.

 

[DanDenver]

I use these notes to help me correlate Shutter speed to ms:
Shutter speed/ms
10000 = 0.10
4000 = 0.25
2000 = 0.50
1000 = 1.00
300 = 3.33
250 = 4.00
200 = 5.00
150 = 6.67
125 = 8.00
100 = 10.00
75 = 13.33
60 = 16.67
50 = 20.00
30 = 33.33