Difficulties in setting/getting detection in Blue Iris

jfjones

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Just beginning to utilize Blue Iris. I have a ReoLink 410 camera at the rear of my property looking towards the rear of the house. With the ReoLink software I am successfully getting movement detection as far away as 280 ft. If a vehicle drives down my road movement is detected as the vehicle passes between my home and my neighbors on each side of me. I have tried various settings to get Blue Iris to also get detection at that range so I can then start narrowing down the desired field of vision. I have set the the sensitivity as high as possible. Detection for full screen. And an all day schedule. I later walked out to the area in front of the camera (25 feet or so) and also no detection. Any suggestions on best settings to assure I am wide open and then can start trimming down? Thanks, John.
 

wittaj

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jfjones

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WittAJ, thanks for the response. Good points on ReoLink and BI interaction, thanks. I'll play with the pre-buffer for grins. The ReoLink camera was a first time shot into the IP camera world for testing. It was very inexpensive to play with and get a feel for what I want to move into next. The actual purpose of this camera is more for the wildlife we have traverse right in front of my workshop, where the camera is mounted, in the evenings and overnight (kind of a special purpose). I was testing the detection, as i mentioned in my post, during full daylight and with a lot of snow to keep things bright. For inside the camera works just fine. I'll look more at the Amcrest & Dahua going forward. Looking to get a PTZ for my antenna tower and a better camera for the garage looking down the driveway. Unfortunate I did not find this forum until after the camera was purchased. Can I ask what cameras you and setup? Fun to be had by all.....
 

wittaj

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I have a variety of cameras, each one chosen for a specific reason and location to cover. Dahua and OEMs are a popular camera choice here and sold by a member here @EMPIRETECANDY on his Amazon store.

The key is to research and get the correct camera for the location you are trying to cover. For example, a 2.8mm lens popular in many consumer cameras (reolinks, Rings, Nest, Arlo, etc.) are not going to allow someone to capture an image to ID someone at 50 feet out - all it can do at that point is let you know something happened, but not who. And many of those same cameras then play with parameters like gain and shutter to give off the bright image that people like, but is total crap at night time motion. I can make a crap camera look like noon at midnight for a static image, but introduce motion and the image goes to crap. Not often a perp will stand still for 5 seconds to allow your crappy camera to get a good picture LOL.

@SouthernYankee and @sebastiantombs have standard welcome posts with links to all the reviews here, so I tagged them to provide that to get you started.
 
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sebastiantombs

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:welcome:

Just in case -

Welcome to the enchanted land of video surveillance lunatics, good guys, nut jobs and miscreants (yes, I fit into at least three categories). There are a lot of knowledgeable people on here and knowledge and experience are shared constantly. That's how I got to be a lunatic (already a nut job and miscreant).

Start out by looking in the WiKi in the blue bar at the top of the page. There's a ton of very useful information in there and it needs to be viewed on a computer, not a phone or tablet. The Cliff Notes will be of particular interest although the camera models listed there are a generation old at this point. The best way to determine what kind of camera you need in each location and where each location should really be is to buy one varifocal camera first and set up a test stand for it that can be easily moved around. Test using that, viewing using the web interface of the camera, during the day and at night. Have someone walk around behaving like a miscreant and see if you can identify them. There is also information for choosing hardware and securing the system along with a whole bunch of other good stuff.

Don't chase megapixels unless you have a really BIG budget. General rule of thumb is that a 4MP camera will easily outperform an 8MP camera when they both have the same sensor size. Reason being that there are twice as many pixels in the 8MP versus the 4MP. This results in only half the available light getting to each pixel in an 8MP that a pixel in the 4MP "sees".

A dedicated PC doesn't need to be either expensive to purchase or to run. A used business class machine can be had from eBay and various other sources. The advances made in Blue Iris make it easily possible to run a fairly large system on relatively inexpensive hardware which also makes power consumption low, as in under 50 watts in many cases. The biggest expenses turn out to be hard drives for storing video and a PoE switch to power the cameras and, of course, the cameras themselves.

Three rules
Rule #1 - Cameras multiply like rabbits.
Rule #2 - Cameras are more addictive than drugs.
Rule #3 - You never have enough cameras.

Quick guide -

The smaller the lux number the better the low light performance. 0.002 is better than 0.02
The smaller the "F" of the lens the better the low light performance. F1.4 is better than F1.8
The larger the sensor the better the low light performance. 1/1.8" is better (bigger) than 1/2.7"
The higher the megapixels for the same size sensor the worse the low light performance. A 4MP camera with a 1/1.8" sensor will perform better than a 8MP camera with that same 1/1.8" sensor.

Don't believe all the marketing hype no matter who makes the camera. Don't believe those nice night time captures they all use. Look for videos, with motion, to determine low light performance. Any camera can be made to "see" color at night if the exposure time is long enough, as in half a second or longer. Rule of thumb, the shutter speed needs to be at 1/60 or higher to get night video without blurring.

Read the reviews here, most include both still shots and video.

Lens size, focal length, is another critical factor. Many people like the wide, sweeping, views of a 2.8mm lens but be aware that identification is problematic with a lens that wide. Watch this video to learn how to analyze each location for appropriate lens size and keep in mind that it may take two cameras to provide the coverage you need or desire. Another factor that effects view angles is the sensor size. Typically larger sensors will have a larger field of view in any given lens size.

The 5442 series of cameras by Dahua is the current "king of the hill". They are 4MP and capable of color with some ambient light at night. The 2231 series is a less expensive alternative in 2MP and does not have audio capabilities, no built in microphone, but is easier on the budget. The 3241T-ZAS has similar spcs as the 2231 and has audio. There are also cameras available from the IPCT Store right here on the forum and from Nelly's Security who has a thread in the vendors section.

5442 Reviews

Review - Loryata (Dahua OEM) IPC-T5442T-ZE varifocal Turret

Review - OEM IPC-B5442E-ZE 4MP AI Varifocal Bullet Camera With Starlight+

Review-OEM 4mp AI Cam IPC-T5442TM-AS Starlight+ Turret

Review IPC-T5442TM-AS-LED (Turret, Full Color, Starlight+)

Review: IPC-HDBW5442R-ASE-NI - Dahua Technology Pro AI Bullet Network Camera

2231 Review
Review-OEM IPC-T2231RP-ZS 2mp Varifocal Turret Starlight Camera

3241T-ZAS Review

Less expensive models -

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