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2Mp or 4Mp? Yes, I've read the reviews :-)

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n3wb
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wittaj said:
It is still using the 4 million pixels - the camera doesn't change the "pixel resolution screen" on the camera when you go from 4MP to 2MP. The sensor still needs 2 times the light going from 4MP to 2MP, so the native 2MP camera will result in a better image at night. The firmware will make some attempt at downrezing it, but it could be a complete crap image or a usable image, but if there is a concern that the 4MP isn't performing or wouldn't perform well at night, then it is better to go with the 2MP.

I have a 4MP and 2MP on the same 1/2.8" sensor and the picture quality is quite different between the two and the 2MP kicks it's butt at night.

In most instances, you want to get a camera that will perform at your location for the worse situation, which for most of us is at night when it is dark and there is little to no light. If a camera performs at night, it is easier to tweak settings to make it work during the day than it is the other way around.

My 2MP cameras outperform my neighbors 4K (8MP) cameras....why....because they are both on the same size sensor.

When we had a thief come thru here and get into a lot of cars, the police couldn't use one video or photo from anyone's system but mine. Not even my other neighbors $1,300 8MP system provided useful info - the cams just didn't cut it at night.

My neighbor tried the "I will just downrez the 8MP to 2MP" and the image was a soft dark mess.

His system wasn't even a year old and after that event has started replacing with cameras purchased from Andy here based on my recommendation and seeing my results. He is still shocked a 2MP camera performs better than his 4k cameras and he cannot figure out why downrezing from 8MP to 2MP doesn't work properly... It is all about the amount of light needed and getting the right camera for the right location and downrezing doesn't change the physics of the camera.

It is simple LOL do not chase MP - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything other than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything other than a 1/2.8" sensor. Do not buy a 4K (8MP) camera on anything smaller than a 1/1.2" sensor. Unfortunately, most 4k cams are on the same sensor as a 2MP and thus the 2MP will kick its butt all night long as the 4k will need 4 times the light than the 2MP... 4k will do very poor at night unless you have stadium quality lighting (well a lot of lighting LOL).
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Probably going to upset a few people on this forum but I always wondered why my 4 year old 2MP IP Chineesium cameras out performed my 8MP hikvisions and Dahua 6MP in the dark. Its not just a little different there is a huge difference. I thought nah this can't be right as they are only 25$ but just shows you. I prefer the Dahua and Hiks for the firmware updates etc but tbh they have never broke and are isolated on their own VLAN with firewall blocking them so not really a concern. Must admin the Dahua are smaller and easier to conceal than any of them. I also noticed on the Chineesium 8mm lens at 2MP was clearer than my Hik 8MP on a 6mm at night which really surprised me. Anyway I need to replace my 4MP with 2MP for night time. Thanks for the reply.
 
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xyz% said:
Probably going to upset a few people on this forum but I always wondered why my 4 year old 2MP IP Chineesium cameras out performed my 8MP hikvisions and Dahua 6MP in the dark. Its not just a little different there is a huge difference. I thought nah this can't be right as they are only 25$ but just shows you. I prefer the Dahua and Hiks for the firmware updates etc but tbh they have never broke and are isolated on their own VLAN with firewall blocking them so not really a concern. Must admin the Dahua are smaller and easier to conceal than any of them. I also noticed on the Chineesium 8mm lens at 2MP was clearer than my Hik 8MP on a 6mm at night which really surprised me. Anyway I need to replace my 4MP with 2MP for night time. Thanks for the reply.
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That is going to be the case in almost any event at night, at least for a static image. I can make a cheap 2MP camera look like noon at midnight, but motion is crap. The 2MP needs way less light than the 8MP.

The question is, how did the cheap $25 camera video perform at night with motion? Can you freeze frame stop it and get a clean picture of a person in motion, or is it a complete blur and ghost?
 
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wittaj said:
That is going to be the case in almost any event at night, at least for a static image. I can make a cheap 2MP camera look like noon at midnight, but motion is crap. The 2MP needs way less light than the 8MP.

The question is, how did the cheap $25 camera video perform at night with motion? Can you freeze frame stop it and get a clean picture of a person in motion, or is it a complete blur and ghost?
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yes, as long as they are not running across the frame. I have another 16mm Chineeseum 16mm turret with sony sensor can't remember which model, but it gets crisps shots as my ANPR camera in any condition. Its about 10m away from target at around 20 degrees and 3 meters high. I have an IR illuminator blasting the full road. Its set at 1/500 and 20 FPS at 3MP. Even with headlights on full at any angle it just drowns out the white light and gets a crystal clear shot every single time. I'm really impressed with it and its been running for 2 years like this. The street lighting is dismal. I personally have Ir illuminators all around the perimeter and then just set he exposure/shitter to 1/125 or higher and I find this gives me the best results. Hik and Dahua both ghost the same to be honest. I think IR illumination with high shutter speed is the key for my setup, after trying loads of different approaches. I have looked at colour vu and Dahua full colour cameras and would be interested if anyone has had results with them in total darkness with someone running across the frame. If anyone can achieve this I would like to hear about their setup.
 
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Members here are always looking for cheaper ways to get better quality images, so do you care to share a night video or two from the cheapo cameras showing their capabilities?

Do not chase marketing phrases like ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

I have a Full Color type camera and the LED light on it is a gimmick. It helps for a small diameter circle, but it is no different than going outside at pitch black and turning on your cell phone light - it is bright looking directly at the LED light, but it doesn't spread out and reach very far. Fortunately I have enough ambient light that I do not need the little piddly LED light on and the picture quality actually looks worse with it on, but it performs better than my other cameras when tested at the same location due to my available flood light. But without some light, a camera with infrared capability is the safer bet. Many here with the camera with the LED light on it do not use it for the very same reason - it's dispersion is not very far and doesn't light up near as well as putting a floodlight up.

So unless you have streetlights or flood lights, I would go with the camera that has infrared capabilities if you need it.
 
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Ok, this is a nightime screen shot of a PLATE on car with headlights on full travelling around 25-35mph.
Screenshots of HIK setup on the NVR and setup on the chineesium camera.
Let me find one during the day. The frame rate says 25FPS according to the software. The camera does 3MP but I set it to 2MP as it processes the image better which I would think is the cpu in the cam being happier.
The IR illuminator is just a amazon jobby, the little round one on a mounting bracket. I just use a POE splitter and some mini jack female male pigtails to power the cam and the IR illuminator from the POE switch which is "at" spec so will do 30W no problem although 15w will be fine with this setup
Hope this helps anyone.
 

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This is the same camera during the day, the sun can ,make a huge difference but the numberplate always comes out crystal clear. Then I have my 4MP colour that get the colour ID of the vehicle during the day.
 

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WOW - what an incredible capture!
 
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wittaj said:
WOW - what an incredible capture!
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The road is really dark so like I said I tried blasting it with IR and then I can increase the shutter really high. The car doesn't really matter as long as you get the numberplate. I think a 22mm lense would be perfect. The speed limit is 30mph to I don't have to set the shutter higher than 1/500, and I experimented with FPS and to be honest with this field of view I can go down to 12FPS and still get a a good shot. I tried H264 also but in the end 265+ worked out ok. Like I said I hope it helps people understand how to capture stuff that's moving in the dark. Obviously people running across the field of view makes a huge difference.
 
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