Turn off PFA and up your mainstream bitrate. 4096 is way too low for this PTZ. Minimum 8192, but probably higher. Try 15,000 and go up or down from there to improve the image or drop bitrate until a degradation.
Try H264.
Match FPS and iframes.
Since you are on mostly auto/default or adjusting based on a static image, in most situations at night it will produce a nice bright picture and great picture when nothing is moving, but motion is complete crap with blurring and ghosting. And the default settings also make it harder for the autotrack to track.
Once you dial in the settings for motion, the image will get darker, but you will then be able to actually make things out during motion as well.
In my opinion, shutter and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day) for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 30ms as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features like WDR until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And when if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible. The higher the backlight number, the worse the image in most situations.
Once you dial it in, the image will be darker, but will give you better results.
